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1982 CE Crossfire won't start

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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 01:45 PM
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Default 1982 CE Crossfire won't start

I bought a "project" '82 CE, previous owner couldn't figure out why it won't run (currently neither can I).
It will turn over, i do not have the injectors spraying constantly, it will "almost start" for a second then nothing.
1) Have spark
2) have fuel
3) overhauled the injectors (currently not having constant spray from both) It will randomly spray once in about every 10 tries in turn it over from both sides
4) found the ECM in the passenger compartment instead of behind the battery. (could mounting or grounding be a issue?)
5) new battery because I all ready drained the older one.
6) sprayed "starter fluid" still won't start or run
7) we played with the distributor.

So my thoughts are:
a) bad ECM?
b) I've read where the Coolant Temp. and Oil Pressure sensors might have something to do with it. But it appears I have lots of fuel.
c) Neutral safety switch?
d) I'm hoping to figure this out on a low budget

Any and all past experience suggestion will be appreciated. Thank You

Save the Wave, Trying to Save the CE.

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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 02:52 PM
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Replace the distributor.......the distributor is the signal for the injectors.....much like a modern Holley Sniper EFI........the hall effect pickup in it and the wiring to it were notorious for issues after many heat cycles.
You purchase a noid light and verify this:
Amazon Amazon

The distributor is cheap.....and it brings you back to as new spec. Now, in the event it isn't...it is something to do with the ECM. But if you are getting intermittent pulse, my money is on the distributor. You will have to set this to 0 TDC when replacing......there is some benefit to bumping base timing on these 4 or 5 degrees but get it started first.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...stributor,7108

Jebby
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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Two things... 7) we played with the distributor. DON'T DO THAT! The dizzy is entirely controlled by the ECM, you MUST disconnect the EST wire before playing with the dizzy and it only sets base timing and that's all. The other is buy an 82 GM service manual, all the troubleshooting and diagrams are in there for your issue and is easy to follow. Do not waste your money on any other manual.

Last edited by Buccaneer; Jun 9, 2020 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Buccaneer
Two things... 7) we played with the distributor. DON'T DO THAT! The dizzy is entirely controlled by the ECM, you MUST disconnect the EST wire before playing with the dizzy and it only sets base timing and that's all. The other is buy an 82 GM service manual, all the troubleshooting and diagrams are in there for your issue and is easy to follow. Do not waste your money on any other manual.
Yes....the GM manual is the cats meow.
Yes...the base timing is all that is set with the wire unplugged....
Now my concern is it doesn’t try to start, burp, nothing when using start fluid....if you have spark, it should do something.

Jebby
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 08:00 PM
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Item #4 on your list would scare the hell out of me....I think you're on to something there....no brains (or brains not fully connected/grounded) = big problem. Why was it moved at all?

" 4) found the ECM in the passenger compartment instead of behind the battery. (could mounting or grounding be a issue?)"
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 08:01 PM
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If you have spark and fuel, then the only other question is the engine in time? Cam/crank/distributor. BTW are your plugs wet?
I would check fuel pressure to start. You should have 9-12 psi. Seeing the injectors pulsing isn't good enough. Is the check engine light on?

Last edited by Mrvettenick; Jun 9, 2020 at 08:02 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 2TONE82
Item #4 on your list would scare the hell out of me....I think you're on to something there....no brains (or brains not fully connected/grounded) = big problem. Why was it moved at all?

" 4) found the ECM in the passenger compartment instead of behind the battery. (could mounting or grounding be a issue?)"
The ECM in the pass compartment should not be an issue as far as working goes. I moved mine to the pass side to get it away from the battery and mine is not grounded in there in any way and works just fine. Not sure what the heck is going on with his motor right now, but I think we are missing some valuable info, because it should at least start and run like crap even if the FP was really low and/or both IACs were bad or the CTS was bad or all the above. Something key is missing. Jeby is correct, it should do something right now. Mmmmm...

You may have an issue with the EST circuit. Are you ABSOLUTELY sure you are getting fuel spray from both injectors and ABSOLUTELY sure you have spark on at least two different wires? If so, you WILL need to get an 82 service manual and start troubleshooting the EST circuit IMO and a couple others to verify they are OK and not open or shorted. You do know how to use a meter, right? Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to the ON position for about two seconds and then goes OFF? That IS VERY important to note.

Last edited by Buccaneer; Jun 9, 2020 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2020 | 11:41 PM
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One way to eliminate the EST is to disconnect the 4 wire connector to the distributor, and then it will run in base timing, One other thing, if the TPS is like over 4 volts, it will put the system in a clear flood mode by ramping down the injectors. If you can beg borrow or steal a scan tool, it will help a lot.
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Old Jun 10, 2020 | 10:29 PM
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Does the Check Engine Light work? Have you tried to download any "Trouble Codes". The OBD-I technology in the ECU can help you identify the source of your problems, if it is still working.
The GM Service Manual for 1982 is the best reference for evaluating and trouble shooting engine system problems.
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