Replacing pinion seal
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,270
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From: Randolph nj
Replacing pinion seal
So from what I have researched you have to count the number of threads on the end of the shaft then take it off and retighten to the same after the new seal is installed
anyone use the 6109 pinion seal they say its shorter and the lip wont stick out
anyone use the 6109 pinion seal they say its shorter and the lip wont stick out
Race Director
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
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I replaced mine a couple years ago. With the car on jackstands in my garage. It was a real pain. But I put a paint mark on the nut and the shaft. Counted the threads. Was a pain getting the nut loose. Then counted the turns off as well. Years later, everything is going well. As per part number of the seal. I'm certain I just ordered a replacement.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
The marking method will work as long as you get the correct load on the bearings, as I am sure you know. There could be a slight difference when doing this so I would first see if the yoke seats tight, you want to get it back on the bearing inner race with a slight pressure to keep it where it was. If you go too much you will compress the sleeve more and put too much preload on the used bearings. If you don't get it tight the pinion will move rearward and hit the posi case.
Most seal companies sell this seal, I prefer and use only the CR/SKF brand. Some seals are narrower, some don't have the flange. The bore should be checked as that will determine where the seal will sit and seal. Most of the time they vary a little and it is not an issue, however years ago on a 75 the bore was too shallow and the flange hit the shield.
Pack the spring & seal ID with grease, I use RTV on the OD as I never trust the factory seal coating. It should be tight tap fit so that may be tricky to do on jack stands but it can be done. Use Loctite #271 red on the nut and stake it once you know where you are with the preload. Check the yoke OD for a wear groove, if you can feel it with your fingernail you need a speedy sleeve. Use permashield on both splines of the pinion and yoke, let it degas.
Most seal companies sell this seal, I prefer and use only the CR/SKF brand. Some seals are narrower, some don't have the flange. The bore should be checked as that will determine where the seal will sit and seal. Most of the time they vary a little and it is not an issue, however years ago on a 75 the bore was too shallow and the flange hit the shield.
Pack the spring & seal ID with grease, I use RTV on the OD as I never trust the factory seal coating. It should be tight tap fit so that may be tricky to do on jack stands but it can be done. Use Loctite #271 red on the nut and stake it once you know where you are with the preload. Check the yoke OD for a wear groove, if you can feel it with your fingernail you need a speedy sleeve. Use permashield on both splines of the pinion and yoke, let it degas.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Cool, glad to hear. Mark everything! Should go OK
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,270
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From: Randolph nj
I replaced the seal there was no rtv on the splines and no sealer on the outer rim as soon as I cracked the nut it came out of the splines.. it’s back together It only took me 10 min
