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Hello,
Just got an L-82 ‘76 manual with 40k original miles. Excited to start working on it and wondering what you would do first. I am thinking 1) exhaust, 2) headers and carb, 3) don’t know yet. Considering MSD prog ignition, shocks and spreader bar, steering kit.
Will also add a BT receiver, amp and subwoofer but haven’t started looking yet.
Would like to get HP to around 300-350 and handling to match.
Welcome!
Depends on what you want/need. Sounds like you have a good plan. With the exhaust, I'm assuming you're removing the cat. Are you in a state that requires inspections? First thing I would do is to make sure that you're working with a sound engine. Run a compression check. If you're not planning to wind this thing high, the stock ignition would be toward the end. Depending on how the originals may be, a decent set of shocks will make a world of difference in ride/handling. Assuming that you have no worn suspension parts, that would be one of the first items I'd do.
Thank you Mrvettenick! You guessed right, no inspection State so the cat goes. Shocks just moved up on the list. I think the engine is solid but good idea to test compression and make sure.
First thing is safety. Check everything out carefully. If the tires look good, check the date code and make sure they are not too old. Anything over about 7 years old is iffy. The fiberglass bodies on these cars don't fare well when a tire blows out.
Second thing is routine maintenance. If no records from the previous owner, assume everything needs to be done.
After that, just drive it as much as you can and the car will tell you what is next.
Before you ditch the Q-Jet carb, email @lars and ask for his tuning papers. You'll be surprised what a difference a proper tune will do vs. the factory specs, and most of it is timing related. You'll likely need to make adjustments after headers go on, anyway. If you have an original Q-Jet, you will be hard pressed to find a better carb for that car.
And before you cut up the dash for a 1-DIN receiver, consider that there are BT receiver amplifiers available that you can hide away. Or even just bluetooth speakers you can stick in back. I didn't bother with a radio in my 80, I can't hear it over the sidepipe headers anyway. In my wife's 79, the PO cut the dash and put in a Kenwood. Sounds great, but looks TERRIBLY out of place. It will get a BT amp, replacement center dash, and a sub mounted in the jack compartment someday.
I didn’t even bring it home, took it straight to the shop to change fluids and belts, flush the tranny and differential, and get a report from somebody that knows more than I.
Tires look new but the car sat in a barn for 20 years so I’ll keep you advise top of mind.
Long tube headers and 2.5" exhaust, proper distributor curve and set timing, 2101 Edelbrock Performer Non EGR intake with 1204 Fel Pro gaskets. Do not mess with the carb.....there is no gain to be had there. A set of Comp 1.52 Magnum rockers helps too without cracking the engine, a lot of people scoff at these rockers but they are 10X better than the stock junk.....it evens out the rocker ration and are much sturdier.
From there....heads and camshaft.
You will need a cam to get to 350 horsepower......300 is doable with the mods I mentioned.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; Jun 24, 2020 at 01:08 PM.
Thanks very much for the targeted response and detailed shopping list!
There seems to be consensus that air management can get you close to 300 but more compression is needed for 350+. More compression requires more cooling, and the $$$ keep going up.
When I replace the cam (next phase of project) I will replace rings and headers, and anything else that makes sense while the engine is out.
Compression varies 140-150 between cylinders. I think this is OK but could be better.
But I’ll see how she runs first with upgraded air flow. Not looking to race, just to feel the g’s (lower case lol).
This group helped me tremendously when I was (am?) modifying my 68.
One thing I would highly recommend is to first lay out what you want. I am an engineer to I am going to say "requirements" because that is what you want the car to be.
The reason I say this is because the Good Idea fairy shows up every day and it is easy to never know when you are done.
Then I would run the list by the group and get some feedback on what people recommend for meeting those requirements.
I will give you some examples of some requirements and the impacts that they have.
1. No wiring issues and all lights and gauges work.
This directly translated to just biting the bullet and putting in a whole new wiring harness. Invasive and a little pricey but it was the right thing to do for my 68.
2. Handles like a modern sports car.
This one I wish I had some help before I set off on it. EXPENSIVE! And easy to go down the wrong path. And really, in the end that was not what I wanted. I wanted it to handle great but not lose its character.
All I am saying is that a little planning and being honest with yourself will do a long way. Originally I had A/C on my list. But then I realized how I like driving the car (tops off) and it didn't make sense anymore.
Below was my list. Just for reference. You will see that after I restored my current paint (and I found out how much a perfect exterior would cost) that was deprioritized too.
I would tackle the handling before the power...service components like shocks, bushings and to lesser extent springs are important. But the most important, and for some reason the most overlooked component of the suspension/handling are tires. You can spend 5000 bucks on coil overs but they wont help you past the low adhesion limit of crappy tires....so wheels and tires first..you can research here in the forum for all of the different sizes and options available, but I am pretty sure you need to get up to 17's to take advantage of most modern summer compound tires....could be some 16's out there, but do the research. Summer or R compound tires; then see if you really need all the extra power.
I will also add after the tires the brakes are going to want some decent pads.
Thanks very much for the targeted response and detailed shopping list!
There seems to be consensus that air management can get you close to 300 but more compression is needed for 350+. More compression requires more cooling, and the $$$ keep going up.
When I replace the cam (next phase of project) I will replace rings and headers, and anything else that makes sense while the engine is out.
Compression varies 140-150 between cylinders. I think this is OK but could be better.
But I’ll see how she runs first with upgraded air flow. Not looking to race, just to feel the g’s (lower case lol).
Marcelo
More compression does not require more cooling. Do the headers now.....long tube only, don't waste money on short headers.....it will support all of your mods later on and is a benefit now.
140-150 is good for an 8 to 1 engine.......each point of compression is worth 15hp/15ft lbs. across the board.......
The Comp 268H camshaft was practically designed for this engine 35 years ago.......it still works today.
O.P. is starting with 220 horse at best. More likely 200ish.
The Eddy 2101 s a good Intake. Its lighter, but only one or two notches above the stock iron unit as far as flow.
I also have the Comps 1.52 rockers for an additional 5 horse. Basically they add 0.020 to the lift of the cam.
A good exhaust will help a lot, but with all the small choking stuff upstream I do not see 80 -100 horse gain from this list.
Wishful thinking sorry to say.
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