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I picked up my new engine from the Speed/Machine shop and I’m going to begin assembly of all the external components, water fitting, oil fittings and plugs.
The engine builder used a putty sealant on the plugs he installed and I’ve always used Teflon tape on plugs and fittings.
He said I could use Teflon tape but he has always used putty.
I thought I would start this tread to see what all you “Pros” recommend and get your input on the type of sealants, tape and Locktite you use on different fasteners that are subject to oil, water, heat, vibration or stress.
Even what is the better stuff to use on gaskets.
Please list the manufacture if you know it, the name of the product and what you use it on.
I hope this will be informative to us old guys that have always used the old tried and true stuff that has been on our shelf for decades, is no longer useable and you just can’t find anymore.
Thanks
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jun 28, 2020 at 04:09 PM.
I like generic Teflon tape on all pipe threads. Wrap it the correct way so it doesn't peel off as you screw the fitting in. Blue lock tite on threaded bolts that don't have nuts. As said above Permatex #2 on gaskets. On bolts with nuts I use ny-lock nuts. If your new engine has aluminum heads use a bit of never seize on the header bolts. Not any kind of expert but just has worked for me.
Permatex 592 (high temp) on most threads that need to be "sealed" these days. For when I need to use teflon tape I've switched over to the yellow "gas" tape, it's thicker/stronger and seems to be a little easier to deal with than the white (not that the white was hard to use of anything)
M
no, you are wrapping it the right way. it is the whole rest of the world that is backwards. twist tie on bread. every damn one was put on wrong by all the right handed people.
I wish tru seals were cheaper. They thread on to your male pipe thread with a Teflon ring that faces the small end. This allows you to tighten the pipe threaded fastener to whatever clock orientation you like and then tighten the tru seal (Teflon inserted jam nut) up against the female side. The Teflon seals any leakage from the fitting. We used them in the nuke field back when I was in the Navy. The only place I see them now is some aircraft applications and some old hydraulic stuff.
If the plugs are already installed with pipe 'dope' (thread sealer) and they are well sealed, leave them alone. No benefit by replacing pipe dope with teflon tape.
DO NOT put teflon tape on pipe threaded sensors. The pipe joint between the sensor and the engine block is usually the electrical ground connection to that sensor. Those MUST be sealed with pipe dope so that the electrical connection will be ASSURED.
Teflon tape should NOT be used to seal any petroleum or gasoline area fittings/plugs. It would be best to use a petroleum-capable sealant like Permatex No. 2 sealant or Permatex Ultra-black RTV.
I've not used Loctite sealants, but they should be fine if used per sealant directions.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 29, 2020 at 11:14 AM.
DO NOT put teflon tape on pipe threaded sensors. The pipe joint between the sensor and the engine block is usually the electrical ground connection to that sensor. Those MUST be sealed with pipe dope so that the electrical connection will be ASSURED.
PTFE on all pipe threads and head bolts.
High quality RTV on areas where gaskets mate....and when installing freeze plugs.
Hylomar or Anarobic Gasket Dressing for valve cover gaskets, seal parting lines, etc......
Hi-Tack spray for had gaskets.
Moly paste for under the head of shoulder bolts, rod bolts and threads......flat tappet cam dressing.
There are several good sealants out there. Permatex Pipe Joint Compound is a universal sealant and lubricant rated for water, oil, and fuel up to 400 degrees. They have other sealants including some that contain PTFE.
FYI, teflon tape comes in a yellow color that is rated for oils, fuels, natural gas, solvents, water, etc. Better than the white stuff for use on a vehicle. I find it in the plumbing section at the big box stores.
Sorry,,,it is not a MYTH. I didn't state that it will prevent electrical connection in ALL cases. But, it can in some cases, especially where folks put 2-3 rounds of teflon tape on the threads.
But, as always, it's your car....do what you want. We all are just giving our best advice to the OP so HE/SHE can make the decision which is best for HIM/HER.
Sorry,,,it is not a MYTH. I didn't state that it will prevent electrical connection in ALL cases. But, it can in some cases, especially where folks put 2-3 rounds of teflon tape on the threads.
But, as always, it's your car....do what you want. We all are just giving our best advice to the OP so HE/SHE can make the decision which is best for HIM/HER.
Tell you what. Place any sealant you want on an NPT joint, tighten it wrench tight, and just try to get it to insulate. Won't happen.
Over the last few years, I remember at least 5 cases of OP's on this forum starting a thread that they changed the temp sender and the gauge no longer worked correctly. Apparently removing tape solved the problem on those.
I agree that on the vast majority of senders with teflon tape, there will be some metal to metal contact in the pipe threads. But I don't think anyone can say that full-insulation CAN"T happen....because it has.
Over the last few years, I remember at least 5 cases of OP's on this forum starting a thread that they changed the temp sender and the gauge no longer worked correctly. Apparently removing tape solved the problem on those.
I agree that on the vast majority of senders with teflon tape, there will be some metal to metal contact in the pipe threads. But I don't think anyone can say that full-insulation CAN"T happen....because it has.
Wrench tight. All they had to do was tighten it down.
Rectorseal#5 on anything pipe thread. Available at any hardware store. Never ever had a problem .suitable for anything from propane to liquid sugar. Holds up to high pressure steam. Smells a little but not as bad as some.
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