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Having a spark problem and troubleshooting... When I measure voltage at the coil with engine off, I get 11.9v at the coil (primary.) As I crank the engine, the coil voltage (primary) drops to 9.2v. Coil resistance is 1.6ohms. Problem? I am considering replacing with lower resistance coil. Appreciate any feedback.
The positive terminal of the coil while cranking should receive full battery voltage. Which terminal are you taking those readings, positive or negative?
How are you measuring resistance, where are you placing the probes?
The 1969 manual shows primary coil resistance as 1.77 to 2.05.
The secondary resistance is 3,000 to 20,000.
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If you are saying input voltage changes then your voltage supply wire is incorrect. So if you are running an aftermarket HEI and using the original coil wires you need to switch to a different wire. It’s been stated in some instructions to use the yellow wiper wire.
Your battery voltage may be low or you have a voltage drop. During cranking a good number is 10vdc and up on all non resistive circuits.
Voltage at/on battery is 12.2v.. Voltage at the coil (voltmeter with one lead on the coil's positive terminal and one lead on the coil's negative terminal) with key turned to accessory I get 11.9v. When cranking it drops to 9.2v.
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Originally Posted by Silver72
Voltage at/on battery is 12.2v.. Voltage at the coil (voltmeter with one lead on the coil's positive terminal and one lead on the coil's negative terminal) with key turned to accessory I get 11.9v. When cranking it drops to 9.2v.
Gordon is asking some good questions. Your coil voltage measurements don't mean much if we don't know what the battery voltage is during cranking.
IDK anything about your point conversion kit. The coil should have battery voltage when engine is cranking. So if battery voltage is 11.5v cranking coil should be 11.5v or very close. Wire runs from R terminal of solenoid to coil, that carries battery voltage to coil, when solenoid is turned on by the S terminal. Once engine starts and starter disengaged voltage at coil drops to 9.2v to increase points life. You made need to review conversion. Instructions.
Once engine starts and starter disengaged voltage at coil drops to 9.2v to increase points life. You made need to review conversion. Instructions.
The voltage is irrelevant. There is no "magic voltage." The ballast limits the primary current to 4amperes.
Since a coil discharges 300 times a second at 4500 RPM, it can charge up quicker than your meter will ever read.
That ignition simply connects to the ballast resistor, so the resistor will still be present. During running, the coil voltage should be less than the battery voltage. But as I posted before, check the wire from the solenoid to the positive terminal of the coil. It will provide battery voltage during cranking.
Some electronic ignition conversions may not work properly if you feed power to it thru that resistance wire. Remove that resistance wire from the coil and run a 12vdc jumper wire to it to see if it works as expected.
Be careful of a red herring. We don't know if 220 degrees is too hot. You said that the Sniper went dark, this is more alarming to me than a hot coil. How is the Sniper configured, controlled timing or non-controlled timing? My assumption is you are operating in non-controlled timing mode, if so the only involvement from the Sniper with the ignition is an input to sense the RPM. Run the car until is cuts out, then check for spark to confirm that you indeed have an ignition problem.
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