'81 Fusible Link
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Rear window defroster, blower, lights, radio, etc. Your #10 might get kinda warm.
The lights alone are substantial. Being a resistive load, they use more with higher voltage.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 470
Likes: 147
From: Va.Beach Va.
When ever I can while performing wiring mods on GM's I will remove the use of the power distribution point at the starter and add a remote 3/8 power distribution stud. From that point the links will be attached as well well as any other High current accessories. It makes life easy for modded cars.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
When ever I can while performing wiring mods on GM's I will remove the use of the power distribution point at the starter and add a remote 3/8 power distribution stud. From that point the links will be attached as well well as any other High current accessories. It makes life easy for modded cars.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
The schematic I have shows the alternator output wire also goes to the dash where it joins other wires and eventually comes back out to under the hood where it connects to the solenoid and also power things like the heater relay. The routing is very convoluted, with wires in parallel too.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
The schematic I have shows the alternator output wire also goes to the dash where it joins other wires and eventually comes back out to under the hood where it connects to the solenoid and also power things like the heater relay. The routing is very convoluted, with wires in parallel too.
It isn't the only error in the book. I have few notes in my manual of errors.
Even the 73 book I am using on the way back thread has a pin out wrong.
Poor proof reading on their part.
I just remembered. The single line shows all the fusable links, but they omitted the one going back to the battery. When I pulled it out, it had a fusable link soldered under friction tape, right before it dives into the battery box.
Last edited by Big2Bird; Jul 16, 2020 at 01:20 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 470
Likes: 147
From: Va.Beach Va.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,532
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From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
It goes right to the battery. My 81 wiring was unmolested before I updated it.
It isn't the only error in the book. I have few notes in my manual of errors.
Even the 73 book I am using on the way back thread has a pin out wrong.
Poor proof reading on their part.
I just remembered. The single line shows all the fusable links, but they omitted the one going back to the battery. When I pulled it out, it had a fusable link soldered under friction tape, right before it dives into the battery box.
It isn't the only error in the book. I have few notes in my manual of errors.
Even the 73 book I am using on the way back thread has a pin out wrong.
Poor proof reading on their part.
I just remembered. The single line shows all the fusable links, but they omitted the one going back to the battery. When I pulled it out, it had a fusable link soldered under friction tape, right before it dives into the battery box.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Jul 16, 2020 at 04:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 10,735
Likes: 63
From: Deep in the Pisgah National Forest
Yup. Post the results. Since the alternator goes directly to the battery, the reading will be accurate.
Rear window defroster, blower, lights, radio, etc. Your #10 might get kinda warm.
The lights alone are substantial. Being a resistive load, they use more with higher voltage.
Rear window defroster, blower, lights, radio, etc. Your #10 might get kinda warm.
The lights alone are substantial. Being a resistive load, they use more with higher voltage.
After I make this change I'll measure the amperage with bright lights and on the cold #6.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,236
Likes: 498
From: NJ
When ever I can while performing wiring mods on GM's I will remove the use of the power distribution point at the starter and add a remote 3/8 power distribution stud. From that point the links will be attached as well well as any other High current accessories. It makes life easy for modded cars.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 470
Likes: 147
From: Va.Beach Va.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 10,735
Likes: 63
From: Deep in the Pisgah National Forest
Autozone gave me three options with a 6ga cable.
A. 19" long (I need 24") for $10.
B. 12' long jumper cables for $33. Not a bad option if you have a bunch of projects like this.
C. #4 or #2 in various lengths The 32" #4 is cheaper than the short #6 or the 24" #4.
Option C, oversized it is.
A. 19" long (I need 24") for $10.
B. 12' long jumper cables for $33. Not a bad option if you have a bunch of projects like this.
C. #4 or #2 in various lengths The 32" #4 is cheaper than the short #6 or the 24" #4.
Option C, oversized it is.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Your 10 gauge should work without giving you any trouble, as I commented on before. Not much point making it larger unless you update the charging wire too. Make sure it is mounted so it can't short and it should be good. In reality, wire is not rated by a current, to size you make sure you remain under the insulation temperature rating and voltage drop. The various tables are used to pick wire and have a safety factor. I've done testing on stuff that had wire sized light enough it wasn't allowed when following the tables but it still passed the temperature rise tests.