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New 4ga wire installed from the starter solenoid 3/8" bolt to the new main panel, inside the OEM sheath. On the picture it enters the panel on the lower right.
Measured amperage with everything on- 66 amps. Hold down both window switches and it increases to 88 amps and doesn't blow a fuse. Not enough fingers to do that and hit the doorlocks at the same time. Headlights nice and bright.
New 4ga wire installed from the starter solenoid 3/8" bolt to the new main panel, inside the OEM sheath. On the picture it enters the panel on the lower right.
Measured amperage with everything on- 66 amps. Hold down both window switches and it increases to 88 amps and doesn't blow a fuse. Not enough fingers to do that and hit the doorlocks at the same time. Headlights nice and bright.
Now do the headlight relays and install new headlamps. The lumen level will double.
I've done that on every old car that I've owned, not done this one yet. I'm losing about 1.1 volts at the lights. Where's the easiest place to put the relays?
Light switch. They over heat like mad. Most C3 dash fires are the head light switch.
Use the original output for the coils, and pick up a nice new hot with a fused link. BIG difference.
I did not even upgrade the lamp wires. Just clip, use the switch for in, and the same lamp wires on the output.
Last edited by Big2Bird; Jul 20, 2020 at 02:58 PM.
How much current do low beams draw? 5-6 ampish? I know the relay option is very popular but I have always located the issues. It can be a combo of issues causing the drops in both the power supply and ground circuits.
How much current do low beams draw? 5-6 ampish? I know the relay option is very popular but I have always located the issues. It can be a combo of issues causing the drops in both the power supply and ground circuits.
40watts @ on low, 60watts @ on high.
Gordon, just a tip, repop switches are crap. GM still has the Camaro switch. Swap guts, and your good.
Easiest to intercept on drivers side.
If you remove the smog relays, put them there. Where the MAP sensor was.
Smog relays? My MAP sensor works. I have the ECU controlling the AF ratio, dizzy advance, and torque converter lock-up I removed the air pump, EGR, EFE and Thermac.
I was thinking of the drover's side next to the alternator. There's a T--shaped conduit connector there that I suspect has the light wiring going through it.
Smog relays? My MAP sensor works. I have the ECU controlling the AF ratio, dizzy advance, and torque converter lock-up I removed the air pump, EGR, EFE and Thermac.
I was thinking of the drover's side next to the alternator. There's a T--shaped conduit connector there that I suspect has the light wiring going through it.
I cannot find a picture of my 81 relays. They are on a bracket on the drivers side,
I don't like the proprietary relays with the fuse clips built in. I would also be suspicious of the terminal quality, The relay may be rated 40A, but it won't handle 40A for very long if the terminal it's plugged into can't handle that current..
Based on the wire size they are good for 30 amps. Anything over 30 and I like to uses a bolt-on terminal. I melted a fuse panel that had a 40amp maxi-fuse, using it to power a cooling fan.
I found some Hella 100/80 watt H4s that fit their 002850811 housings using ceramic terminals. I intend to leave the HI beam as a sealed beam drawing 60 watts per bulb.
The new loads on the LO circuit would be 80 * 2 / 12 = 14 amps, and the factory wiring is 18 ga so supports up to 16 amps.
The new loads on the HI circuit would be (100 + 60) * 2 / 12 = 27 amps (call it 28). The factory wiring is 16ga so supports up to 22 amps.
How far should I carry a new 14GA wire into the circuit? Below is the diagram for that.
