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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 01:50 PM
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Hi All, I have a couple questions. I did a full suspension replacement all the way around using all the manufacturers specs. Now I notice the car leans to the drivers side. I did frame to ground measurements and FL - 7 inches, FR-8 inches, RR - 7 1/2 inches, RL - 6 3/4 inches. The front right gap between the fender and tire are very noticeable but the rear not so much. What can cause this? The only thing I suspect is the front right spring might not be seated correctly as it makes a squeak every time I go over a speed bump. But that’s all. Could that be it?

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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 01:53 PM
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There was just a thread where the owner had a squeak coming from front after doing a number of front end changes including springs. The problem was the spring was not correctly clocked/seated.
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 04:51 PM
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Just did a lot of "Ride Height" work on mine. Another thing to check, although the ft spring not seated correctly sounds like a good place to start. Would be your rear leaf spring. Is it perfectly centered? Raising the rear will push the front down somewhat.
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Just did a lot of "Ride Height" work on mine. Another thing to check, although the ft spring not seated correctly sounds like a good place to start. Would be your rear leaf spring. Is it perfectly centered? Raising the rear will push the front down somewhat.
I just did further inspection and the top of the spring isn’t seated at all! It looks like the spring curved.



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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 06:11 PM
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Seat the spring in the frame pocket to within 3/8" of the inspection hole. I put blue painters tape on the spring so it can be seen from the top. You could also drop a bolt in the inspection hole and have the spring edge rest on it. When the spring is seated and secure, remove the bolt. Jerry
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
Seat the spring in the frame pocket to within 3/8" of the inspection hole. I put blue painters tape on the spring so it can be seen from the top. You could also drop a bolt in the inspection hole and have the spring edge rest on it. When the spring is seated and secure, remove the bolt. Jerry
Thanks Jerry! Good tip!
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 09:14 PM
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I still say this is the issue for many when they say springs too tall..i almost indexed to the bottom a arm not top frame...
i think maybe too some years different
pull that bolt as soon as tensioned before full compression, it may pinch

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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
I still say this is the issue for many when they say springs too tall..i almost indexed to the bottom a arm not top frame...
i think maybe too some years different
pull that bolt as soon as tensioned before full compression, it may pinch
I wondered if my springs are the right size but since I am using aluminum heads, perhaps the weight difference doesn’t compress the springs down as much. That’s what I came to the conclusion anyways. Your thoughts?
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dreno73
I wondered if my springs are the right size but since I am using aluminum heads, perhaps the weight difference doesn’t compress the springs down as much. That’s what I came to the conclusion anyways. Your thoughts?
well first make sure installed correctly, make sure a arm bushings tightened under load..
are not springs rated by weight per inch? Thats a lot of weight off...if 20 pounde lighter than a bag of potatoes on each fender drops the car that mich? No way..

heres my saga
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Old Jul 12, 2020 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
well first make sure installed correctly, make sure a arm bushings tightened under load..
are not springs rated by weight per inch? Thats a lot of weight off...if 20 pounde lighter than a bag of potatoes on each fender drops the car that mich? No way..

heres my saga
20 lbs? That’s it? I read somewhere they were 80 lbs. now that you say that, I double checked and you’re right, 20 lb savings. Thanks
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Old Jul 13, 2020 | 04:41 AM
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Aluminium heads, aluminum intake, and a couple other minor mods and my car was sitting an inch and a half higher, stock springs, 43 years old.
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Old Jul 13, 2020 | 06:06 AM
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interpon brought up a-arm bushings tightened under load. if you install the bushings and tighten them, then take the car off the stands, they will want to stay where they were tightened. they flex either side of their center point. they do not swivel.
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Old Jul 13, 2020 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Aluminium heads, aluminum intake, and a couple other minor mods and my car was sitting an inch and a half higher, stock springs, 43 years old.
hmmm. No clue but my original spring rate was 290..and replaced with 474 pound rates..
assuming 290..wouldn’t you have to lose like 450/ 2 225? pounds for 1.5 inches?

Last edited by interpon; Jul 13, 2020 at 10:03 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2020 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dreno73
20 lbs? That’s it? I read somewhere they were 80 lbs. now that you say that, I double checked and you’re right, 20 lb savings. Thanks
forgot my saga link!..see pics of spring upper

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rs-method.html

Last edited by interpon; Jul 16, 2020 at 08:50 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2020 | 12:37 AM
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Ah ha!!! I fixed it! I was able to use a spring compressor, a 2x4, 5lb hammer, and a lot of swear words! Actually, I gave up and put it all back together to take it to a shop and as soon as I dropped the jack, POW!!!! It fell into place and seated itself. Now it’s about 1/2 an inch higher than the left side but it’s level on the rear part of the frame. Thanks for the ideas and help!
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Old Jul 14, 2020 | 07:56 AM
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loosen the control arm bushings. drive around the block. tighten them back up.
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Old Jul 15, 2020 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
loosen the control arm bushings. drive around the block. tighten them back up.
will do!
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