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All we can do is explain to you the BEST way to adjust your carb. It is YOUR choice as to which method you use. If your method actually worked well, I don't think you would be asking for assistance on this Forum. Either way, I wish you luck in getting your engine running well.
I know I'll catch hell for saying this, I have been adjusting idle speed using a tachometer since around 1968, never used a vacuum gauge.
Set your idle speed screw to whatever speed you want.
Then turn either idle mixture screw in a 1/4 turn, if the idle drops turn back out a 1/4 turn.
Then turn the other idle screw in a 1/4 turn, if the idle drops turn back out a 1/4 turn.
Continue doing this until both screws have produced that drop in idle and you have turned them back out 1/4 turn once you hit the idle drop.
Readjust your idle speed if necessary.
Reconfirm both screws cause a drop when turned in a 1/4 turn.
Thanks guys. Like I mentioned, I noticed that as the idle became more rich both RPMs and vacuum increased because I had both tach and vacuum gauge hooked up at the same time so they work in accordance.
I just have to cut it off at the point it floods.
I went through the 3 and 4 turn area today with RPM at 850 which is where Lars said he sets it and I settled on a setting.
The 3 or 4 turn is where he starts and then turns in to obtain lean drop and backs out. You don't leave it at 3 or 4 turns without adjusting it further.
I just mentioned 3-4 as the range I focused on because it flooded at 4 and it sputtered at WOT at 2.5.
I went through every 1/8 th of a turn between 3 and 4 and settled on 3.5 then tried what you could call 1/16 of a turn above and below 3.5 and ended up at what amounts to 3 and 9/16 turns.
With the engine off, open the throttle by hand and watch the pump arm movement and you should observe two strong shots of gasoline without any hesitation, one in each primary throat.