I bought what my 79 comes equipped with. My problem lies in the fact that I've never handled or discussed a 1/2 cork 1/2 rubber gasket. How do you install these things? Do you even use sealant on em. I only ever worked on modern cars this is the first classic I've laid my ratchets on. I also got 2 sets just to be safe cause I figured I would **** something up.

 

Your going to get all kinds of answers, most all of which may work.
I would glue them to the cleaned off covers with Gaskacinch or 3M weatherstrip, let dry, then smear white lithium grease on the head walls, then torque very lightly. Think inch pounds.
If you do it this way, you can reuse them once or twice, meaning pull and reinstall the covers.

 

thats what I do. I used a black rtv to prevent oil seepage and adjust and tighten them as they loosen under a few heat cycles

 

I also want to add that using studs/nuts to hold the valve cover down is the only way I will do them......foolproof and locates the cover perfect everytime.....use stainless nyloc nuts.

Jebby

 

Something to keep in mind. Some engines have a milled surface on the heads,,,, some don't. On my 68 327 the surface is like a cobblestone road. I could be wrong, but I like the old school cork gasket on it. The new school milled surfaces are totally different. There isn't a one size fits all here.

 

Good point about the cast iron rough rail for the covers.
Some say cork is too crumbully (new word). Some say rubber has no give to it.
That's likely why the composite of both materials was invented, good combo.

I just did a cover gasket last week. After scraping / wire brush, the old crap off, then a Acetone rinse. I have had excellent adhesion with Permatex Grey tube. I smear that on the cover only, place the FelPro of your choice on the cover, install four bolts to align holes, flip cover over on the workbench. Place a weight on the cover, leave it overnite.

 

Thanks everyone I really appreciate the input. I got a few options and scenarios now under my belt to work with. I was taught to always use the sticky spray or the black goo. I dont mind the spray really but I don't like the goo at all, i just don't like the idea of having to glue it in place. To that should not be a viable option you know what I mean. Also the possibility of a chunk finding it's way who knows where and gumming up the works of something. So I'm leaning towards jebbs approach it fits my personal feeling on the matter. And if I **** it up then I still got the back ups lol

 

Idk what the rail looks like where they meet the headers but it looks smooth I hope,T ipI dontyodon't wanna have to useause An adhesive on cobblestone. That process you just described to clean it is another reason I dislike that ******* goo lol the 3m spray ain't to bad since it dissolves and melts away somewhat.

 

I would buy these and hang those cork gaskets on a wall as a backup. Also, you put these on without any sealants and reuse over and over.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...RoCbGkQAvD_BwE

 

Those work fine on cast covers. Tin covers, not so much. The tin distorts too easily to use them.

 

WAAAAAAAAAAYYYY too much money just for V.C gaskets. And still no guarantee they won't leak.
FelPro has excellent gasket at less than half of that cost.

 

I have them on the 81 with magnesium valve covers.
With cast covers, they are forever. Reuse over and over.

 

you won't go wrong w/ Big2Bird's method; period. What ever, adhere gasket to the cover only and not the head.

I'm not aware of an OE iron C3 head with machined/milled rails; Later heads yes, not OE iron C3.

 

I like the studs and rubber gasket. I also used the load spreaders.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...oad%20spreader
Not sure what others will say, but it seems to be working well.

 

You should not need to put sealant on those gaskets....IF the sealing surfaces are flat and clean and the cover bolts are properly torqued. Most folks tighten the 'hell' out of little valve cover bolts, thinking that the extra tightening will cause them to seal BETTER ! NOT!! If you have stamped-steel covers, over-tightening will 'dimple' the area under the bolt and it will leak WORSE !!

Clean the gasket surfaces on both heads and covers. Use a small hammer to flatten the dimpled rail if you have damaged stamped-steel covers. Use a volatile cleaner (lacquer thinner, etc) to wipe down head and cover surfaces before you bolt them up. Inspect them to see that those surfaces are smooth and free of high or low areas. If you wish to use a sealant, use ONLY Permatex #2 gasket sealer or Permatex Ultra-Black RTV. They are made to seal petroleum products; silicone sealants ARE NOT. Use only a light wipe on any surfaces where you apply it.

Your most important task is to PROPERLY apply bolt torque. Valve covers get very low torque. GM spec is 50 INCH-pounds. That is equal to a little more than 4 foot-pounds....too low for your torque wrench (unless you have an inch-pound wrench). That should be applied in 'stages': one round at "SNUG"; another round at 25 INCH-pounds (2 foot-pounds); last time at 50 INCH-pounds. You should not have any leakage.

P.S. Throw new gaskets at oily surfaces and guess what you get.......

 

From Permatex web site: Permatex Black for oil pans, valve covers, oil resistant.
Permatex Ultra Grey SILICONE, for oil resistant such as valve covers & pans.

 

Permatex Ultra black and Ultra grey are specially formulated silicone sealants. To my knowledge, they are the ONLY silicone sealants made to seal petroleum products. No other silicone can do that. And I did recommend Permatex Ultra RTV.

 

Get rid of those GARBAGE cork gaskets. Want to know WHY old engines leak? Because of those old cork gaskets. Unless they are driven regularly, they WILL dry up and leak. The other option is GOB them with the sealer of your choice and pray all the excess goo doesnt break loose and lodge an oil passage. Sure, they worked fine 70 years ago, but so did 6 volt batteries and incandescent lamps and 4 wheel drum brakes . Older doesnt always mean better.

I began running rubber gaskets on valve covers about 15 years ago. Give them the slightest SKIM coat of sealant and hand tighten (a fingertip should cover the one entire side) . Just let the bolt 'bite' and give it 1/4 more turn. DO NOT overthink this and tighten more. Valve covers are the ONLY fitting Ive ever seen that can suffice with a good gasket and minimal torquing pressure.

 

I thought the Mahle gaskets were cork/synthetic-rubber composition? If so, I never have any trouble getting those to seal. If cork ONLY, I would agree that is not the best way to go.