When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Now I just need to figure out how to go about making the other end of the line by the fuel filter. It's an Edelbrock filter and line which is a -6AN fitting. Any ideas on how to go about this without using a compression fitting?
Now I just need to figure out how to go about making the other end of the line by the fuel filter. It's an Edelbrock filter and line which is a -6AN fitting. Any ideas on how to go about this without using a compression fitting?
Thanks,
Adam
Lars' 2019 Fuel Line paper shows how to use AN tube sleeves and nuts along with a flare to make connections suitable for EFI fuel pressures. That's the method I used to make the lines for my new engine with EFI. You basically slide a tube nut and sleeve over the line, flare the end and you're done. AN fittings are best used with 37 degree flares but Lars' paper shows you can use standard 45 degree flares with this method.
Now I just need to figure out how to go about making the other end of the line by the fuel filter. It's an Edelbrock filter and line which is a -6AN fitting. Any ideas on how to go about this without using a compression fitting?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by DC3
Lars' 2019 Fuel Line paper shows how to use AN tube sleeves and nuts along with a flare to make connections suitable for EFI fuel pressures. That's the method I used to make the lines for my new engine with EFI. You basically slide a tube nut and sleeve over the line, flare the end and you're done. AN fittings are best used with 37 degree flares but Lars' paper shows you can use standard 45 degree flares with this method.
In my line of work as a Chief Engineer in the Marine industry I do quite a bit of Stainless 316L Tubing which uses the 37 deg JIC or AN style fittings. If Your going to go this route I have a couple of recommendations. Never use a Tubing Cutter if Your going to Flare the end. It will hardened the Stainless and it will also dimple the tubing inward the opposite of Flaring it. So when You go to Flare it crack. And if it doesn't crack when You Flare it it might do so at a latter date when ever it feels like it. We use a Hacksaw with fine teeth or a Porta Band to cut Stainless Tubing. They make Cooper Crush washers that can be installed between the Flare and the JIC AN male end these used to be used only to fix problem leakers but now that most of the fittings we get are from China we pretty much use them all the time. They are also available is other materials than Cooper. I find that using Hydraulic Oil at 3000 PSI its easy to get them to seal but as soon as I start plumbing Gasoline at 5 PSI everything wants to leak. So with Gas everything needs to be nuts on. All the Fancy Aluminum and Stainless fittings available are also available in Steel at a fraction of the cost. Look to see if You have a local Parker Store or Hydraulic Shop near by. If Your like me You will change your mind a lot and or find that the perfect set up didn't quite fit and or it was just in the way of this or that. You can put it all together and see what fits and what doesn't and run it to make sure its what You want Then order the final fittings in what ever the material and color You want.
When I fabricated my inline fuel filter with a new steel fuel line, I made the cuts and took it to a hydraulics shop. The guy made the flares in a minute or so, wouldn't even charge me so I bought him lunch.
