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The bleeders get done according to the 'distance from the master cylinder'. Some folks (and GM) start with the farthest away and work toward the M/C. Others (and I) work from the M/C then out to the farthest bleeder. In the case of the rear caliper bleeders, there is only a few inches difference; but your chosen strategy would still apply.
I used to fight with getting air out of the brake system on my 1968 C3. I then bought a Phoenix Reverse Bleeding system. Now it is much easier as I push the fluid up into the system and it come out of the Master cylinder. I put a catch bucket under the M/C and very carefully keep the fluid from overflowing by using a turkey baster to pull excess from the M/C.
The Phoenix system works very well on the C3's and even better on the C4's or anything with a hydraulic clutch. I have used this tool on my Cessna, my motorcycle and my Corvettes and other family cars. It is one tool really that does make the job easier. This system makes it easy to do the bleeding or just flushing the old fluid out of the system. Pushing air up makes more sense to me than pushing air down in the brake system!
I used to fight with getting air out of the brake system on my 1968 C3. I then bought a Phoenix Reverse Bleeding system. Now it is much easier as I push the fluid up into the system and it come out of the Master cylinder. I put a catch bucket under the M/C and very carefully keep the fluid from overflowing by using a turkey baster to pull excess from the M/C.
The Phoenix system works very well on the C3's and even better on the C4's or anything with a hydraulic clutch. I have used this tool on my Cessna, my motorcycle and my Corvettes and other family cars. It is one tool really that does make the job easier. This system makes it easy to do the bleeding or just flushing the old fluid out of the system. Pushing air up makes more sense to me than pushing air down in the brake system!
Interesting. I use the Motive pressure bleeder, but this reverse bleeder may be even more convenient. If you don't clamp the Motive Bleeder down perfectly, you end up with a mess of brake fluid under your car, OR if you just pressurize, you have to constantly check the M/C levels to make sure you aren't running low.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I finally went with the gravity bleed technique and it worked just fine. Did the inside bleeder first, on the rears. I have a nice firm pedal, now. Thanks, again.
Duane
If you drain all of the old, water-laden, nasty brake fluid first, that kind of bleeder would work great. Not thrilled about having to have a 'catch can' under the master cylinder, though.