1977 C3 Washer Pump Replacement
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
1977 C3 Washer Pump Replacement
Washer pump on my 77 died and Im replacing. I've disconnected it, and can get at the pump motor but cannot detach it from the reservoir. Any tips or tricks?
Reservoir is empty. I feel like it should pop but I don't want to split or break the reservoir!
Reservoir is empty. I feel like it should pop but I don't want to split or break the reservoir!
Last edited by jamesfisher268; Jul 23, 2020 at 09:31 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
That I can't say
Maybe check here, I would expect it's possible (but awkward) to remove the tank so look at using extensions / swivels to try to do it in place, maybe loosen the tank so you can turn it to a better angle or something?
Are you sure it's the pump that needs replacing? check power first type of thing
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sher-pump.html
M
Maybe check here, I would expect it's possible (but awkward) to remove the tank so look at using extensions / swivels to try to do it in place, maybe loosen the tank so you can turn it to a better angle or something?
Are you sure it's the pump that needs replacing? check power first type of thing
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...sher-pump.html
M
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 397
Likes: 77
From: Jasper, GA
Like "Mooser" says above, test the pump first before going to all the hassle of trying to replace it.
I remember having to rotate the pump like 90 degrees to get it to unlock from the reservoir.
No, you may not have to remove the reservoir.
I believe when I replaced mine, I reached inside with needle nose pliers to hold the "nut/screen" while I started threading the pump on the outside. Of course, having the reservoir out of the car makes that much easier.
I think Willcox has a paper on his site detailing how to replace this pump.
Richard
I remember having to rotate the pump like 90 degrees to get it to unlock from the reservoir.
No, you may not have to remove the reservoir.
I believe when I replaced mine, I reached inside with needle nose pliers to hold the "nut/screen" while I started threading the pump on the outside. Of course, having the reservoir out of the car makes that much easier.
I think Willcox has a paper on his site detailing how to replace this pump.
Richard
Last edited by lakerider57; Jul 23, 2020 at 10:22 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 1,730
From: Seattle Area Washington
The yellow wire to the pump is hot at all times the ignition switch is on or run position. The Dk.Blue wire is the switched ground.
No, you don't have to remove the reservoir, but you do have to remove the neck.
The neck is attached by single bolt screwed into a small bracket pop-riveted into the fender gutter. Once you remove the bolt just pull the neck off the reservoir.
I can't remember but I think it is a 1" or 7/8" deep socket and extension with wobbly adapter to get the right angle.
Tape the extension and socket so they wont fall off. You can also add some tape to the joint in the wobbly adapter just to stiffen it up a little.
When you go to install the filter nut lightly tape the filter nut to socket as to just keep it in place long enough to get the treads started.
Setup something like this:
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jul 23, 2020 at 10:47 AM.
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Melting Slicks
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Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 7
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Thanks everyone. Yep, I tested power and power was going to the pump but the pump was dead (never been replaced, previous owner had the car for 10 years and it had never worked.
Ill get the neck off and build my tape-powered extension ratchet. Thanks for the help, I will keep you posted on progress!
Ill get the neck off and build my tape-powered extension ratchet. Thanks for the help, I will keep you posted on progress!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,367
Likes: 1,730
From: Seattle Area Washington
Thanks everyone. Yep, I tested power and power was going to the pump but the pump was dead (never been replaced, previous owner had the car for 10 years and it had never worked.
Ill get the neck off and build my tape-powered extension ratchet. Thanks for the help, I will keep you posted on progress!
Ill get the neck off and build my tape-powered extension ratchet. Thanks for the help, I will keep you posted on progress!
You say you have power at the yellow wire at pump, good. But when you press the lever in to wash mode do you have switch ground to the Dk.Blue wire at the pump connector?
In ohms mode, you can clip one meter lead to a good known ground have a 3rd hand (or audible meter) press the lever in to wash mode touch (or clip) the DK.Blue wire at the pump connector with the other lead and you should have continuity.
Now you now your washer circuit portion of the Wiper/Washer switch is good.
You don't need ignition power on for this test. You know you have that on the yellow wire.
Last edited by bmotojoe; Jul 23, 2020 at 08:41 PM.