I've seen something similar from a fellow CF member. If you could possibly cut out a section of the 3/8" fuel line that is leaking, and slip on a rubber fuel line with solid fuel line clamps, you could verify that was your original problem.

Before and after example:

 

i m going option 2 !! already blown..if ANY rust came out i would have cut it.. but white rag pure after two 20 gallon tanks of air. i will clean very well and use epoxy 2 part.. no pressure so pretty confident.. no way could i do this with gas in tank..probably whythey used cut hose..it is VERy tight or i would cut

 

Okay. I would use JB Weld 6 minute epoxy, but cure 24 hours.
Sand/steel wool very clean.
Your issue will go away now.
And you have tank stcker.
And, tank maintenence is done for 50 years.

 

I might wonder why those holes are there.
Is the pipe rusted out inside and these are all that have showed up? I would go along that pipe and tap it with flat blade end of screw driver see if more holes appear. If not then the epoxy route sounds reasonable.

 

evidence of serious inner corrosion; who knows how bad the rest of the lines are?
I know it's a PIA to replace all that steel line; but this ain't an emergency with no time to spare like on those stupid TV car shows. I'd be so inclined to replace.

 

Thanks all..
solvent, sand, solvent, jb weld...should be good to go..probed area where holes were nothing soft..removed a clamp seemed solid under..

yes i am wondering why 2 holes too..thought same rust...but solid around that area, zero visible onside ends..white rag gas and compressed air pure white..im not pulling body to replace lines...i would if the seems were split and obvious corrosion i may consider it..maybe someone jacked it...the lower line is bent away from holes maybe thats when hose put on don’t know.
that gas tank is plastic on inside..didnt know that..
i may leave tank sheet on maybe clear taper over it..no way getting that glue off..tried heat and solvent nothing..
spent a few hours removing grease around differential and spring..heh my spring is silver!
waiting on parts , sock, and gasket..napa dont list rock auto out, went paragon.
there is a bit of rust where rubber gasket was..both sides..evaporust taking care of sendsr insert but wire brush doesn’t even touch the rust on tank...bolts have orings seemed ok to reuse on bolts.
should i assume rubber will be ok to seal or add something..?

Also compressed air in frame holes found a vermin treasure trove in frame..literally a pack rat..hoping 35 years ago..

About as clean as it gets


Im not seeing any pitting anywhere they clean up well..

 

Of course gasket not in stock (10 days!,,!) so sock never shipped....anyone have thoughts for finding strainer?

 

Summit Racing

http://CH28638

 

There have been a few threads where members have replaced the fuel lines without pulling the body.
Some lifted the body just a couple of inches while others have installed new lines without lifting.
It’s something to keep in mind for a winter project.

 

thank you all for advice..and to replace..
im not sure what i started.. but here goes.. i am going to replace the lines on passenger side..with NOT removing body... (body mounts look good too!)
i will use this..nickel copper 3/8 and 1/4

i am hoping it bends easily and can get into OEM clamps.. i also bought aflaring tool to try a double flair for hose connection.. no clue if i will be able to do one peice but will try and assume if not i can try compression fittings..
old ones out i had to cut a few areas (and still sucked around doghouse) ..i seen some rust but no leaks that i know of..
figure i try and start at front and feed from there?



my epoxy repair

maybe run rubber from the wheel well? or is that a no no?those bends will be tough

 

Parts trickling in..
new strainer and gasket zip..
gasket did not line up one hole needed to be added..
tank wiped clean wasn’t really dirty...some rust stains..
leaving tank sticker for posterity and its glued! Took pics having walgreens print a few pics..
evaporust did good on plate and bolts and inner fuel pipe...
50 inch pounds on sender bolts
note post mortem on leaking area and random rusted area in dog leg area near frame

Note epoxy area..yup its corrosion

Note another area near dog leg..starting to pit..im hoping made right decision

Had to add a hole not aligned


Tank sheet shall live on..covered with paper to help protect

 

I recently replaced the lines on my '73 with the Nicopp lines without raising the body. It was a pain but went fairly well. I had a few minor kinks in the tubing but nothing to be concerned about. I used a spring tubing bender to help make bends by hand in tight areas and an actual tubing bender when I had the room.

Spring tubing benders like these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Armour-L...7210/306656687

The hardest part was getting the fuel lines through the kickup area at the rear. I actually started there with the car at maximum height on my Quickjack. I pushed the lines through the kick up area and gently bent them as I went until I had enough extra line all the way to the rear of the car. I then started forming the permanent bends. In retrospect, I wonder if it would have been easier to form all the permanent bends near the kick up area before inserting the line by matching the lines I took out. You would need to leave enough extra line past each side of those bends to get to both the rear and front of the car.

I used 3/8" for both the supply and return lines as one coil of 3/8 Nicopp was enough to do both on my car. I found a piece of hard plastic tubing that fit inside the 3/8" Nicopp. When making bends near the end of the tube, I inserted that plastic tubing to help prevent kinks. Filling the Nicopp with sand works really well for preventing kinks while bending but I didn't use that technique on the long lines under the car because I wasn't sure I could get all of the sand out easily. I did use the sand when making short lines for the filter and pressure regulator under the hood.

One of the hardest parts for me was making the flares I needed for EFI fuel pressures with the lines already installed.

DC

 

Flares or rolled beads?

 

dont know how to make rolled beads.. figured gentle flare double would seal? hose?

 

If you think EFI might be in your future, it is best to plan for it now.

 

so i am thinking make 2-3 connections.. use double flairs and a block? and a 90 degree block (like a brake line?)at bottom rear arch? one at wheel well..one for oh crap..as opposed to compression?

still waiting on bending tool and 1/4 line..and die for making double flairs..

 

If you think you might be interested in fuel injection down the road (or even if you're not), get in touch with Lars and request his paper on how to build a fuel line. There's an old copy floating around on the forum but he has a revised edition from last year. In the paper he shows how to use AN fittings with tube nuts and sleeves for connections. Even though AN fittings normally require 37 degree single flares, his paper shows how you can use standard 45 degree single flares for pressures up to 250 PSI or so which is plenty good for an EFI system that might see 60 PSI. I used all AN fittings with 37 degree flares on my system and so far I've had no issues.

DC

 

This is better advice than I can give. I have Lars' paper, the tools, and most of the parts. All I don't have is a reason to drop my tank.

There are some great EFI threads on this forum. Even if it's years from now, plan for it now, making sure you have pressure rated connections where you need them when you add an in-tank fuel pump, and make sure both lines are sized appropriately.

 

You will have EFI before this thread is done.

 

Hahaha...no i am planning having lars do my carb! He’s already helped me with his papers..
i went compression made in usa...one 90 rest compression...
the flair fittings were chinese at menards...
with a little help from wife...i think even she wants it running...
i bent one rear to tank double flair for rubber..of course i forgot the cushion..ill jam it over later...and managed to snake it thru with screwdriver and pulling with pliers...i plan on a 90 compression...will see how far i get trying one line to that 90..


Matched pretty close used bender otc taiwan for bigger bends..

I hope 1/4 easier

A little extra plan on cutting and 90..not sure yet how to clamp or add the 1/4 side by side

May have to adjust tighter to fram bit close