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Just bought my first Corvette, a 1973. It's in pretty rough shape as the last owner did not do much maintenance. Lots of leaks. There's something draining the battery very quickly. There's a very strong gasoline smell when the engine's cold. Brakes are weak.
My top priority is trying to nail down the source of gas fumes and fix it so I can put it in the garage. Then I'll focus on other things. Currently it has to sit outside because of the fumes so I bought a car cover for it.
It runs, drives, idles ok (water pump bearing also seems to be bad), but tends to shut off after driving some time. It will jerk forwards and backwards then die. If I wait a few min it will start back up and die later. I'm guessing it's a fuel issue, maybe a kinked rubber hose or something like that.
I was thinking I could post some pictures and get your thoughts on what's broken/wrong, or maybe stuff I should consider fixing in the future. I don't have much knowledge right now but I'll be reading the AIM in my free time and I also have the C3 Haynes manual. Picture 1: this is the best angle in my opinion, it goes downhill from here Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4 Picture 5 Picture 6: This looks really rusted Picture 7 Picture 8 Picture 9 Picture 10 Picture 11 Picture 12 Picture 13 (AC not hooked up, not sure if it works. That'll be a problem for later) Picture 14: What is this?? Picture 15
14 that used to go to the factory air cleaner its ok the way it is I suppose
Car doesnt look bad may need a little attention under neath but solid.
one thing at a time. Start wtih your fuel hoses from the tank make sure they arent cracked, leaking sucking air etc. Then fuel pressure, carb etc.
These things are old..if you love it go through and sort it. If its too much get rid of it.
Good thing is water/fuel pumps/rubber lines are cheap. Get her running/stopping/steering fine and tackle one thing at a time. Sure looks good from the outside
#14 is the "clean" air intake for your PCV system. As @cv67 said, it would normally go in the stock air cleaner, possibly the single or dual snorkel air cleaner from a later-year car.
Your engine is GM Corporate blue, so it is likely from a later C3 (77 and up, possibly 76?). It also has an HEI distributor. The HEI modules can sometimes go bad, and be the cause of heat related ignition failure. It's low hanging fruit to see if that solves your stalling issue. Even better would be to go through the ignition system, and fuel system, so you know what it is all set to.
Please check your engine stamp pad, on the passenger side below the AC compressor, at the base of the head. You can look up codes from this site to see what (Corvette) engine is in your Corvette, or elsewhere if it was from a different car. http://corvettec3.ca/
Also, if you take off the air cleaner and post some shots of the carb, folks on the forum may be better able to help you get it squared away. The GM Shop Manual for your year would also be worth picking up (much better than the Haynes), and you may want the one from whatever year matches your engine (and 4-speed transmission, perhaps), too.
Good luck! It looks like you have a pretty good starting point, and a beautiful car.
Yes, it does look like you have some work in front of you. Frame looks solid enough, front crossmember looks pretty dented in. (Common). Rubber parts I can see like bushings on rear spring look like toast.
car looks like a fair start. But complete restoration on the way.
Never seen a stock Corvette with plug wires routed that way. Shouldn't be seen at all. Wiring in engine compartment, well......
I've had mine for over 30 years, fixing on it all the time.
welcome to the insanity!
Never seen a stock Corvette with plug wires routed that way. Shouldn't be seen at all. Wiring in engine compartment, well......
It has headers if you look closely. While it's a bit unconventional, over the valve-cover wires is perfectly fine. They make looms that hang on the valve cover bolts to neaten it up a bit.
odds are engine is not corvette. just as likely impala, pick up truck, monte bomb or school bus. also makes little diff. unless it is a 267 or 305. so you need the block casting number and pad stamp. the really rusty pic 6 is fiberglass. underside of the car is better than most. pull the kick panels and check #2 body mounts. where is the gas smell from? front or rear? 40 to 50 year old cars. every piece of rubber fluid passes through. on corvettes this includes T-top seals... underside looks like relatively untouched orig car. both good and bad. nothing has been replaced yet. but nobody effed it up either. and many replacement parts done in the 90's would need replaced again anyway. welcome aboard.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 30, 2020 at 06:03 AM.
It's dang hot outside! and these cars have lotsa heat in cabin; the older, the hotter.
nice lookin' car! Best thing about it; It's an AC car. So get that fixed /converted from R12 to R134. Yours has OE type Harrison A6 compressor.
If your A6 is junk a better solution is a Sanden compressor.
Really good looking original car imo...
my initial focus would be all is cool....but
investigate in more detail the rust and the body mount areas...there a thread on here where to look...then evaluate next steps..
other than the rust factor looks really decent..
i would after rust check do the advice given already .i think your keeping it regardless of leaks or how it runs so i would replace all the bushings and worn suspension parts and brakes focus..
good looking car!
post numbers as mentioned and those on here far more knowledgeable than i will help
good pics
Last edited by interpon; Jul 30, 2020 at 09:04 AM.
Hello roamin,
Nice to see you decided on a 73. Car looks pretty nice. Lots of things going on there but all seem to be correctible. Like most have already stated get the car running and stopping safely first. Looks like the caliper is leaking on that one rear wheel you pictured. You can see the fluid on the tire. Looks like it still has the original Master Cylinder. (Note the bleeder valves!) As for the fuel smell, that could be the result of a faulty fuel separator valve located on the drivers side of the fuel tank. I don't see any hoses going down to the EVAP canister (from the pcv valve or carb) located down inside the driver's side fender well either. Which could also be part of your fuel smell problem. Apparently bi-passed. Check your gas cap to see if it is a vented one. If so, they EVAP system was bi passed for sure. The caps on the 73 should say "Sealed' on them...... If you don't mind try to get a good photo of the engine stamp pad so we can see what's on there. Only way we can determine what engine is in the car. I do see that the thermostatic choke is still there mounted on the passenger side intake manifold. These were used on Corvette engines thru 74. But things changed in 75. I'm not so sure with other GM cars. That being said, maybe you still have the correct engine in the car & and a previous owner just painted it blue to match the car. lol! Stranger things have certainly happened... The engine is painted corporate blue (started in 77). However, your steel valve covers are correct for the 73 (just painted blue) because they have the metal brackets attached to them on both sides for the Idle Stop Solenoid wire on the driver side, and the TCS solenoid wiring harness on the passenger side. Those brackets were eliminated late 75 and on. Finally, I would also focus on cleaning up the battery box. Lots of corrosion going on there.
Anyway, good luck with the car, and just take one thing at a time. Lots of fun projects there to keep you busy for quite awhile. If there is anything I can help you with please don't hesitate to PM me...
Tooch
PS: Don't get caught in the rain with it! Yikes..... no wipers!
looks like a fun project !! Gotta chuckle at the previous exhaust work , they basically lost everything through the pipes that was gained by the headers
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
So the fuel smell could be an improperly vent fuel tank. I know my 68 is vented to atmosphere. I don’t know what year they used a non vented fuel cap and started using an evap can and charcoal canister" you may have to check the aim for that info.
I don’t see any wet gas on the underside of the car. YouR trans bushing and yoke seal look like they need replacing though and your power steering may need some attention...I would degrease everything while it’s in the air with spray degreaser and rags then park it on a lot of card board to isolate any leaks.
so in importance I would fix the gas leak if there is one...it may be the normal smell, mine smells
then make it go, make it stop, make it go faster....on that thought, the stalling may be a clogged filter or a bad pump..there was just a few threads a little while ago and those were the problems...remember that ethanol eats the old style rubber do the fuel sock could be dissolved, the older hoses could be gummed up and the carb could be suffering from the crap that comes off the melting hoses..
other than that it looks good with no obvious AEM rot, just surface rust...all that’s left To investigate is the body mounts and windshield pillars
As a fellow 73 owner I have to agree that “rough shape” is indeed relative. Looks like a great project to me. If there’s no rust in the frame you’re in good shape. The body looks pretty good and body work on these cars is far and away the most difficult for a DIY-er to accomplish. Everything else can be done by anyone who can turn a wrench. I bought my first C3 10 years ago. It had no front clip, didn’t run, and had a rotted wire harness. In addition I had never done more to a car than change the oil. I’m now on my 3rd C3 and I don’t think there’s an inch of these cars I haven’t rebuilt replaced or repaired. With an AIM manual and this forum there’s little you can’t do.
I had a really strong fuel smell as well. I reattached the EVAP system and replaced the lines running to the check valve on the gas tank. The lines had become cracked right at the tank. You could see fuel vapor escaping with a flashlight. Take a look at the line between the hard fuel line and the pump as well. It looks like the air cleaner cover is on upside down too. Not that this would have any effect on performance, just something I noticed.
Congrats on the car. It can seem overwhelming at first but, it’s actually much less complicated than it looks. It’s a beautiful car and I think she’s a keeper for sure!
Welcome to the 73 club.
Mine had a strong fuel smell when I purchased it as well.
It ended up being the fuel separator at the tank as mentioned above by Tooch1.
It should have a sealed fuel cap and say non-vented on the cap.
If the cap says vented or is not a sealed cap, don't change the cap to non-vented until you correctly set up the vapor canister and hoses in the engine compartment as this is the system that vents the tank.
A big safety concern of C3's is the use of rubber fuel lines in the engine compartment.
Replace the old fuel lines as soon as you can and replace the rubber lines from the pump to the carb with the oem style steel tubing.
Before you start driving it check the date codes on your tires.
Anything over 5-6 years old should be replaced even if the tread is good.
Nice looking 73 and it does appear to be in good shape.
Keep us posted and thanks for the photos.
Looks like a typical C3 to me. You do want to check for bad frame rust and bad windshield frame rust. And agree check the fuel tank&lines for leaks and install new rubber hoses. Suggest you get a 73 AIM (ebay and elsewhere; Assembly Instruction Manual sounds like you have already), and a 73 GM service manual and 73 GM overhaul manual for starters. I think the order is; first make it safe and make it stop, then make it go, and finally make it look great.
You came to the right place, lots of great knowledgeable people here happy to help and share.
All C3's are great fun! And you might consider checking out a local Corvette club to meet more Corvette people, although many are a collection of newer Corvette drivers, most have a few gear heads happy to talk nuts and bolts.
All the best!
BTW, IMO, I would not mess around and spend money on an original a/c system. Splurge and install a Vintage Air setup as you won't be disappointed.
Last edited by 20mercury; Jul 30, 2020 at 05:31 PM.
This car has been abused. Looks like somebody liked to jump moguls with it. Smashed the headers & oil pan. Bellhousing shows scars and even the muffler clamps were dragged across speed bumps. But all that can be fixed. Big credit card / thick checkbook.
What kind of mechanic puts a floor-jack under the center support? The same one that puts the air cleaner lid on up-side-down?
The key word for this car is "Bushings". Lots and lots of bushing replacement. I think the first thing I would do is hit every nut / bolt underneath with PB Blaster now.
Good luck, you will get it done right.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 30, 2020 at 06:42 PM.
Welcome to the Forum! There is a great amount of knowledge here and most are willing to share it with a fellow corvette owner. Nice looking 73. Yes it needs some attention, but there is a lot of fun and personal satisfaction in doing the work your self. Dig in and start asking questions. And post pictures.
In addition what others have said, check the age of your tires and replace them if they are over 8 years old, even if the tread looks like new.
Thank you everyone for the warm welcome and valuable insights!! I hope to be able to help others one day when I get more experience working on my car. I guess the car doesn't look too bad after all, not as "rough" as I thought . I think the restoration will be a fun process.
As many people suggested, I will start with inspecting fuel hoses from the tank to engine, look at fuel separator valve on driver's side of fuel tank, see if EVAP canister is hooked up properly and check gas cap to see if it's sealed. I will also check the filler neck seal (which I think is cracked, but not the main source of the problem).
Here are a few other notes
• I have the wipers, they are in my garage. Motors seem to work but I was told the rubber on wipers needs to be replaced.
• Air cleaner cover is upside down, I was told there's not enough hood clearance to have it installed correctly.
Thanks again for the help and I will make sure to keep everyone posted! I'm sure I will have more questions down the road. I probably won't have time to take any more pictures of the car until next Monday, but will post the stamp pad next week.
Bought my first corvette! (help)
I do see that the thermostatic choke is still there mounted on the passenger side intake manifold. These were used on Corvette engines thru 74. But things changed in 75. I'm not so sure with other GM cars. That being said, maybe you still have the correct engine in the car & and a previous owner just painted it blue to match the car. lol! Stranger things have certainly happened...
The engine is painted corporate blue (started in 77). However, your steel valve covers are correct for the 73 (just painted blue) because they have the metal brackets attached to them on both sides for the Idle Stop Solenoid wire on the driver side, and the TCS solenoid wiring harness on the passenger side. Those brackets were eliminated late 75 and on. Finally, I would also focus on cleaning up the battery box. Lots of corrosion going on there.
. I think the restoration will be a fun process.