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Remote starter switch... just checking before I do something dumb
I'm about to pull the valve covers and check/reset lash on my valvetrain.
I have one of those remote starter button/switch gadgets which I have used on newer cars. one lead to a + and another to the S-terminal on the starter solenoid. On newer cars, the solenoid is often remote mounted in the engine compartment.
My '71 BB coupe has a standard starter (as far as I can tell)... appears to have a positive and an S-terminal like most starters I've seen. Before i blow something up... is there anything that is different on these cars that i should be aware of, before hooking it up and testing it? The last thing I need is an electrical short somewhere, but from everything I can tell, it is extremely straight-forward, just like other engines I've worked on.
It will sure beat cranking it by hand, if it all works!!
100% correct. That S terminal is tucked way back in there. I can see it, and I can touch it with my fingers, but getting leverage to get the clip on it has proven problematic to this point.
Sucks, cause my valve covers are off and I'm ready to go!
100% correct. That S terminal is tucked way back in there. I can see it, and I can touch it with my fingers, but getting leverage to get the clip on it has proven problematic to this point.
Sucks, cause my valve covers are off and I'm ready to go!
It is a little more work, but you may want to bolt on a short wire to clip on.
Turn crank with socket on front bolt (trans in neutral).
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
90 degree increments. Lash each cylinder when it is at TDC. As long as cam is not too radical works well.
Easy. Takes me about 45 min from beginning to end. Usually do it when swapping plugs anyway.
This is most likely what I'm going to do. I tried turning the crank by hand with trans in neutral and plugs in, and it won't budge... I'm honestly afraid i could strip the crank bolt. I realize that might take 200lb/ft, and I'm not a big guy, but I'm strong enough to do that with some leverage. LOL So, if i can't get the remote starter to work or a friend to bump the engine with the coil disconnected, I will just pull the plugs. I've got a fresh set sitting on the workbench.
I've got the valve covers off and these rockers seem too loose to me (glad I'm checking them). I'm thinking they are easily .025" cold lash. I believe they should be around .014 or so (alum head, iron block). Good news... visually, all looks good under there.
Success!!! Turns out, as we all do from time to time, I was making it too difficult trying to attach the leads from the bottom. Going in from the top, through a gap in the Hooker header tubes, I was able to attach the leads pretty easily, even though I was doing it 'blind' to some degree. Thankful for a little dexterity left in my 52yr old body. I tried the switch and it works. Enough work for today... I'll get to checking/setting the lash later in the week.
Steve... any advice on setting cold lash? I have always worked with hyd roller valvetrain, which is extremely easy to set up. This is a solid roller lifter situation. As I said above, I'm thinking .014" cold. I checked a couple of the rockers at TDC and they are .016. I was wrong about .025" LOL But i know a couple have to be loose... the valvetrain seems a little louder recently at idle, which is why I wanted to check things out.
Am I correct in my thinking that once I feel some minor "drag" on the feeler gauge (at the chosen lash) from the roller tip to valve stem, that is proper and ready to lock into place?
Success!!! Turns out, as we all do from time to time, I was making it too difficult trying to attach the leads from the bottom. Going in from the top, through a gap in the Hooker header tubes, I was able to attach the leads pretty easily, even though I was doing it 'blind' to some degree. Thankful for a little dexterity left in my 52yr old body. I tried the switch and it works. Enough work for today... I'll get to checking/setting the lash later in the week.
Steve... any advice on setting cold lash? I have always worked with hyd roller valvetrain, which is extremely easy to set up. This is a solid roller lifter situation. As I said above, I'm thinking .014" cold. I checked a couple of the rockers at TDC and they are .016. I was wrong about .025" LOL But i know a couple have to be loose... the valvetrain seems a little louder recently at idle, which is why I wanted to check things out.
Am I correct in my thinking that once I feel some minor "drag" on the feeler gauge (at the chosen lash) from the roller tip to valve stem, that is proper and ready to lock into place?
no cam card for the intended lash I assume? A tighter lash is a little easier on the rollers because it reduces the bounce as the lifter contacts the lobe. I don’t know about big blocks, but my small blocks with aluminum heads tend to grow .002-.003 if you’re working off a hot lash number.
One more thing to note, the Allen screw in a poly lock does not need to be crazy tight, if you’ve tightened and loosened the locks a bunch of times, it’s worth an inspection to see if the body has any hairline fractures. I consider them consumables, not lifetime engine parts. Seen it happen first hand, is the only reason I mention it.
Last edited by vette427-sbc; Aug 4, 2020 at 10:02 PM.
I didn't build this engine, but according to the previous owner who did, the entire thing has under 3k miles on it. I would hope the Allen head poly locks are good, but I agree... definitely worth an inspection.
As far as the cam goes... he chose a hyd roller grind, and installed solid roller lifters on it. Therefore, the cam card doesn't have lash for solid rollers. Again, I wouldn't have done that, but the engine runs really well. It makes nearly 400hp at the tires and over 440tq at the tires... so its a legitimate 475hp/530tq engine, which isn't bad at all for a mild BB that runs on 93 unleaded and is topped off with a low-rise intake that fits under the stock hood.
I decided to inspect the lash because I've owned the car for about 10 months now, and while it runs well, my ear tells me the valvetrain has gotten a little louder at idle. And I mean... just a little.
anyway, i found another solid roller cam by the same manufacturer (Herbert Cams) that is fairly close to the specs of this one, and they recommend .016-.018 lash. I have aluminum heads/iron block, so I'm thinking .012-.014 lash to make up for some expansion once everything is warmed up.
My question (because I'm not as accustomed to adjusting solid lifters) is when I check the lash (they are all at least .020 right now) and set it, should the feeler gauge be snug, or just a little drag on the roller tip/feeler gauge interface? I've seen the "Go/Don't Go" method, using two feeler gauges at .002" difference. Using this method, it seems like the feeler will be pretty tight on the "Go" lash setting.
I just don't want to screw it up, but I am confident that right now the lash is too much on just about all the valves.
I would feel better being closer to .014 than.012 if it were mine. Only an opinion though...
there will be a drag on the feeler gauge, and you will have to be conscious that the feeler is entering the valve/roller parallel to the top of the valve. Otherwise easy to get a false “no go” when trying to put the feeler in. It’s hard to describe the amount of drag, but I’d say it’s more important to have the same feeling across the board as you set. +\- .001 won’t make a difference in your motor, but being able to monitor which ones changed and how much they changed (Hopefully no change!) at your next lash check is what I look for.
Couple of things-- first is the valve lash.. My SR cam calls for .018 lash. I've set it with everything so hot you can't touch it at .018, and then just to test, set it at that same .018 stone cold. Brodix heads, Comp Cam, Trend .080 wall pushrods and topped with T&D Shaft rockers. Setting the lash cold or hot, and rechecking on either end, it was still .018. Goes against everything I ever thought I knew about physics.
Next thing, is I ran a jumper from the neutral switch out under the hood so I can clip onto that and pickup power from the alternator output or the horn relay. The NSS or clutch switch, you want to use the 10ga Purple with the white stripe.. I put a two stud power strip doo-dad and hooked to that.
Remote starter switch... just checking before I do something dumb
I tried the switch and it works. Enough work for today... I'll get to checking/setting the lash later in the week.
