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Reno Stallion's mods in the front of the chassis (braces) are almost identical to the Chevy Power Book. When I had my body off, I also added these supports as well as finishing the seam welding on the frame as per the CPB. Also like Reno, I went over the welds for the lower front control arm attachment to the chassis itself. You see so many pics of these pulling off the frames, it just makes sense while you are in there.
My setup is the fully welded frame and gussets as per the CPB. I also have a Borgeson steering box, so I was able to close the round hole in the frame which allowed access to the old power steering ram mount point, which is identified as weak. While I was rebuilding, I changed my rear end mount point to solid and eliminated the top hat bushings on that crossmember. The rear suspension was changed to the VanSteel coil-over setup and the front is the (now defunct) VB and P front transverse leaf spring and adjustable shocks, so not much stock to provide a comparison.
It is a very solid feeling ride though. Too bad I just love the looks of the original aluminum rims on the car. I bet it would handle much better if I wasn't riding around on giant chocolate donuts for tires
I have friends who autocross, but I do not. I'm just one of those fools who enjoys a challenge and did it all myself.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Don't tell us how many hours of labor it took to do all that Silverrshark. After doing the body mounts on mine for the second time I just get nauseated reading about mods like yours. Bravo Zulu to you for getting it done but life is just to short for projects of that magnitude.
Anyways thanks for sharing and congratulations on an optimum build.
Don't tell us how many hours of labor it took to do all that Silverrshark. After doing the body mounts on mine for the second time I just get nauseated reading about mods like yours. Bravo Zulu to you for getting it done but life is just to short for projects of that magnitude.
Anyways thanks for sharing and congratulations on an optimum build.
Yep. Three years, and I didn't have any significant birdcage rot to repair. Just a minor issue around the passenger #2 mount. It was deteriorated body mounts that got me started, and then I really blame the multitude of creative people here on the forum for the rest; group purchase of TKO600, YEP, solid mount the rear, looks like a cool project while I am in there, take a local community college course, then buy a welder and make my own mandrel bent exhaust system, sign me up. The list goes on and on, and the longer the car was apart the more I added. Finally finished the 78 a few years back, then after a little more than a year, I bought an 86 convertible because I was bored. That one should be done soon.... No idea what will happen then.
Just info from my vehicle and my observations:
I bought my car with a welded-in roll bar.
Ages ago I closed in the stitch welding on the underside of the frame between the wheels. What that made noticeable to me was that the car rattled less when going over railroad track. That is really about the main thing I noticed.
When I made the tranny crossmember removable I welded up all the gaps in that removable section.
Later, while I had the engine out, I closed up the stitch welds on the upper side of the frame in the engine compartment. I did not notice much difference from that.
Sometime after that I bought a spreader-bar and mounted it at the upper control arm regular attachment point. I did not notice much difference from that either.
Last edited by carriljc; Aug 11, 2020 at 07:15 PM.
Reno ,Dont forget to fill and weld the hole adjacent to the steering box.
I have welded and gusseted my frame for my 71 Project. After I finished I sent it off to a frame shop to check straightness.
Turns out the car had been wrecked previously. Guy doing the work straightening did a hell of a job getting it back into shape.
When he went to pull the rt frame rail the frame tore open at the hidden repair. He added a doubler inside the rail and rewelded it.
My next step is to send it out and get it zinc dipped.
Last edited by AzMotorhead; Aug 12, 2020 at 02:05 AM.
Reno I have to ask about the last pic. I dont recognize what is going on there.
I've added a 3/16 plate to the underside of my crossmember between the lower A arm mounts
Reno I have to ask about the last pic. I dont recognize what is going on there.
I've added a 3/16 plate to the underside of my crossmember between the lower A arm mounts
I don't think it is in the CPB but I was told by a guy that has been racing these chassis and winning for years probably shouldn't say who not sure if it is allowed in the class they run in. Anyway you slot the cross member top and bottom and weld in a 1/4" plate. They have a fixture they bolt the frames in and twist it to see what gives. He told me this is one of the best ways to eliminate front torsional flex. Hope I'm explaining it correctly
They would grind these down so you couldn't see it I didn't kinda like it
I don't think it is in the CPB but I was told by a guy that has been racing these chassis and winning for years probably shouldn't say who not sure if it is allowed in the class they run in. Anyway you slot the cross member top and bottom and weld in a 1/4" plate. They have a fixture they bolt the frames in and twist it to see what gives. He told me this is one of the best ways to eliminate front torsional flex. Hope I'm explaining it correctly. They would grind these down so you couldn't see it I didn't kinda like it
I don't think it is in the CPB but I was told by a guy that has been racing these chassis and winning for years probably shouldn't say who not sure if it is allowed in the class they run in. Anyway you slot the cross member top and bottom and weld in a 1/4" plate. They have a fixture they bolt the frames in and twist it to see what gives. He told me this is one of the best ways to eliminate front torsional flex. Hope I'm explaining it correctly
They would grind these down so you couldn't see it I didn't kinda like it
I think you are explaining it perfectly.
And physics-wise that extra bulkhead should really stiffen up the front section. As good as or better than a spreader bar. It's a Genius idea. It's the kind of racing mod where if you can't see it, then it must be legal, right ! LOL
Reminds me of Smokey Yunick tricks.. He used the hollow roll-cage for a NOS bottle, etc. etc.
Did anyone else catch the fuel line run on the outside of the frame rail away from the header's heat???
I like what you did with creating the removable cross-member. It looks very slick how you got the bolts tucked in like that. I added plates that bolted on the outside of the old cross-member. Not quite as trick, but it allowed me to use the original section instead of fabricating a custom one like you did.
Any other hidden gems we haven't picked up on yet?
