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The tension on my rear spring is fine but it is dirty and the rubber(?) separators have disintegrated with time. I was thinking of taking it to a suspension shop in the spring and having it re-done, painted, etc. Would such a shop have those separators or are we into "Corvette" pieces here?
Most of the Corvette catalogs sell the spring liners. It's a fairly straight forward "do it yourself" job. Jack up the rear of the car. CAREFULLY support one end of the spring with a floor jack. A vice grip over the spring helps to keep things from flying loose. Undo the bolts on each end, and carefully let the spring down. Do this on both sides. Now, undo the 4 bolts that hold the spring to the diff. It's done. Take it apart, glass bead the leaves, repaint (gray), put in your new liners with a new bolt, and you're ready to re-install. BE CAREFUL. It that spring pops loose, it'll break your arm :) Juliet Page has a picture series on her website for the 70 Corvette Registry. Chuck
Thanks Chuck. I saw that spring pop last summer when we replaced the outer mounting bolts and rubber cushions. Had to cut the bolts off and then BANG. In any case the various catalogues do not seem to list the liners for 1979. In fact from the pre-1978 prices, it would seem cheaper to buy a new spring with liners then to get the old spring off, clean it up and install new liners....
Unless you're showing your car, having a steel spring rebuilt makes no sense, considering the greatly-reduced weight and resulting better ride characteristics of a fiberglass leafspring. If you car came stock with steel springs, I advise you to scrap em and check out Vette Brakes' composite springs.
Here's the difference. Somewhere along the line, Corvette changed from a 2 1/4 inch wide spring to a 2 1/2 inch wide spring. That's probably why you're having trouble. Make some calls. I'm sure somebody makes the wider liners. Measure the width of your spring to be sure of the dimensions.
Replacement metal springs are a can of worms. You can't buy a correct looking one today, and you run into problems of ride height, etc. with the replacement metal ones. I know nothing about the fiberglass replacement springs. Chuck
I can add my .02 about replacement steel springs. I bought 2 from Corvette Central 2 years ago. i used one last Spring when I rebuilt the rear suspension. The spring is in between the 2 stock sizes. I had to grind radius reliefs where the 4 mounting bolts go. The car height was up 2" so I had to get 8" bolts and the nuts are about a .250" from the end of those to get the body set correct. I tried using a floor jack and 4x4 to jack up the spring end but it slipped even with a C clamp on the spring.It almost popped the car off the 8" blocks I was using,if it was on jack stands it would have fallen for sure. I ended up using a 10' piece of 1.5" black pipe leveraged under the spring and strut rod to lift the spring end. It was also posted here that there are only a couple of places making the replacements now so chances are you'll get the same from most of the vendors. I never used the glass springs because of many stories of them breaking.
Good luck,
Gary
It is my understanding that the nine-leaf, 2 1/2" spring was standard beginning in 1978. The FE7 spring had six leaves and was 2 1/4" wide for 1978 and 1979 but went to nine leaves in 1980. It does get confusing! I will check the width carefully before ordering.
Gary,
Good to see you back! You make a compelling argument for re-building what I have already. And I will probably take that route.
On the composites, some people swear by them, others speak of breakage and problems with heat from the rear exhaust pipes. Having to insulate them etc. I just do not know???
Have heard of the rear end covers cracking when the spring bolts are
removed. I thought the bolts should be removed when the wheels are
on the ground to lessen the chance of the cover cracking. Chuck
said to remove the bolts when the car is in the air. Which is correct?
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19
Oldtimer
Re: Can Rear Spring be Re-built? (mark79,80)
I just removed the spring and took it to the shop. I didn't have to supply any parts. Just looked up my bill $63.45 for the rebuild two years ago. Chuck
Good point, Mark. To clarify...the 2 end bolts...where the rubber donuts and cups are located....by having the car in the air, you "unload" the spring, lessening its' tension. Therefore, it's easier to let down and has less potential energy.
The 4 bolts which hold the spring onto the diff....you should LOOSEN these somewhat when the car is on the ground, and weight is on the spring. When you re-install the spring, you should NEVER tighten those 4 bolts till the weight is on the car. Why? Think of the "arc" of the spring. With the spring "unloaded", there's more arc, with weight on the spring, it flattens.
You can break an "ear", usually tightening those 4 bolts with NO weight on the car. It sure helps to loosen them SOMEWHAT to relieve the spring tension BEFORE you jack the car up to remove the end bolts. Hope this helps. Chuck
Be sure to check the new bolt that it fits into the diff OK. The GM replacements on the early sharts has too tall a head and it it possibly responsible for many breaking the ears off their rear diff cover.
Juliet,
Thanks for that link! It seems that the liner kits in the various catalogues only carry through to 1977: when the 2 1/4" springs gave way to 2 1/2" springs in 1978. I will keep looking.
Chuck,
I checked things out with a local truck shop today. They need to see the spring to give me a firm estimate but it looks like clean, paint and supply new liners for about $70.00US. Apparently the liners come in bulk rolls of thickness and width. Then are cut to the needed length. I did not know that. Thanks for the tip.
Paul: Make sure that the liners that they're talking about are the plastic/vinyl ones. MANY spring shops use what I call the "military belt" fabric webbing between the leaves. Also, usually they'll assemble them, and then paint the whole "enchilada" with tarry black goo.
Make sure you specify that you want the leaves painted gray, individually, then assembled with plastic/vinyl liners. Chuck
Thanks Chuck. I hear you. The shop services all GM dealers in this city so I imagine they will wish to get things right. I will run it through our parts/service people so there is no misunderstanding. Certainly I will set out the specs beforehand.