I would like to use wire taps, similar to the ones pictured below to hook up a switch to turn on the auxiliary cooling fan on my 1980. I plan to use the taps to splice into the two wires that are connected to the temperature switch.
Is there any problem with using these taps?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...-202522123-_-N

 

Those taps works just fine as long as the correct size tap is used for the correct sized wire so you dont ruin the wire your tapping into. Then whatever you are using this tap for needs to not over draw on the circuit your tapping into. These taps are also not weather tight so i wouldn't use them where they can get wet.

Typically the fuse panel will have an ACC port that you can use to power things versus using these taps off of some other circuit. I would not run a fan motor off of the ACC or these types of taps. You can use something like these to pic a relay that is then wired properly to the battery to run a fan.

I dont know the 80's so i am not familiar if the AUX fan you speak of is factory. You also mention a temperature switch so it almost sounds like this is a factory installed item? Not sure what you are attempting to accomplish by overriding the temperature controlled feature. If the temp switch is working the fan should already come on when needed (unless its used specifically for when the AC is only on). Turning it on sooner wont really help if the cooling system is not capable of keeping things under control to begin with.

 

The temperature switch turns on the fan at high coolant temps. I would like to turn on the fan when using the ac during low speed driving. The two wires connected to the temperature switch are what activates the fan.

 

Personally, I don't like those. Depending on who made them they have been known to add resistance to a circuit. If you do use them make sure you coat them with some kind of sealant i.e: dielectric grease, stabilant 22, etc. If not and they are exposed to the outside environment I can almost guarantee they will corrode. If I had a dollar for every semi trailer lighting systems I repaired because of these I'd be rich.

 

Ive seen two types of temp sensor. Typical one wire sensor is a grounding sensor. When temp is reached the sensor body will allow the wire attached to go to ground and call the relay by grounding it.

Since you have two wires on the temp sensor im thinking it might be just acting as a 12v switch that then powers the relay to turn on the fan. You would have to test for how the sensor is used (grounding or 12v) to operate the fan relay.

Some AUX fans are brought it by coolant temp and some are also brought in by a sensor on the high pressure side on the AC itself.

Not sure if you tested whether the AUX fan helps or not at low speeds yet but before doing anything you could remove the sensor wire connector and hot wire/jumper the leads temporarily and drive around and see if it actually helps before tapping into it and running a switch. Just a thought. I am not familiar with your car so make sure how the sensor is implemented first. I cant find anything online that shows the theory of operation on that sending unit / sensor / switch. Dont want you to blow anything if its more than just a switch.

You could be having issues with the mechanical fan clutch or maybe your radiator seals or fan shroud are not proper. Or its just freaking hot in Florida and the AC in these old vettes is just not as good as it needs to be.

 

Those connectors are the scorn of many mechanics. They are not the greatest connectors to use. They pierce the outer ends of the wire which tend to lead to intermittent connections, especially under the hood. There are many better options.

 

Thanks for the replies. I will not use the wire tap connectors. The fan clutch has been replaced and the ac works well, except it is not as cool at under 25 mph. The shop that converted the system said the high pressure is increasing because of not enough air flow. That is why I would like to hook up a switch. As per a reply, I am going to disconnect the wires at the temperature switch and temporarily hook them together to activate the fan, and see if the ac is cooler.

 

You can use simple wire taps to access a voltage signal. But you should not be using that to turn on any fans directly. If you use that signal to turn on a power relay which sends current to the fans, no problem.

 

Those little taps are called scotch loks took me a while to find the name. Been around for over 50 years. Used mostly by telephone guys.

GM actually used them to installed capacitors as an engineering change to fix a poping sound in the radio when the brake pedal light switch was being activated.. On the thread below i didnt realize they had been around that long nor that GM had actually used them .

https://news.3m.com/English/press-re...s/default.aspx

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1601012279

 

If 80 like 79..that grounds to turn fans on..very high temps to come on..as mine was not plugged in
when i got it and would run sometimes regardless of temperature when i did plug it in...didnt even know i had one til plugged in!
i removed from sensor and just jumper it so fan runs all the time..helps with ac too..and couldn’t hurt anything to keep cooler..

 

I prefer to solder myself. Wrap it in electrical tape and then seal it with rubber cement.

 

Please don't use those......split the wire and use an adapter crimp and shrink tube......those jumpers are shoddy looking, the metal inside is cheap and suspect to corrosion in short order.
I solder all my wires or use non-insulated butt connectors and shrink from Tyco that I buy at Digi-Key dot com......these do require an Amp crimp tool which is pricey but no better crimp available: https://www.digikey.com/products/en/...t%20connectors

Jebby

 

If you are going to use them- these are the ticket for external connections-

DO make sure you use the good automotive wire( I like Summit racing- their brand is inexpensive and made in the USA)- copper not "CCA" copper coated aluminum made in china crap...


Waterproof Terminal Splice


https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-tap/667/1727/

 

Based on my experience with miles of Bubba wiring over the years, I don't like them. IMHO they can't compare to solder and shrink tube. Having said that, sometimes it may not be practical to solder in a really tight spot.

 

look up military splice...it works better and its a better connection and more of a permanent one. And you can cover it with either a dab of clear silicone or black to seal it. You just need a good wire stripper that can split the housing and slide it a bit. Then use a sharp probe to split the strands apart enough to slide the wire through the 2 strand groups...Then either solder or wrap the wire tight
heres a decent link
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...tape%20More%20

 

The fuse block under the dash should have both an ACC tap and an IGN tap. A slip-on terminal will fit perfectly, use the IGN tap, then run your new wire through a fuse of the appropriate rating, you’ll be good to go.

PS. I retired from what is now AT&T. Those crappy wire taps were NEVER allowed. Soldered connections were the best.

 

please do not use those. Please avoid at all cost. These just invite corrosion in your wiring. They cut into the wires. Over time they become a source for problems. I mean no disrespect to anybody.

 

I would never allow those in my car. I also have banned wire nuts, Teflon tape, white lithium grease, POR15 as a frame paint, and several other commonly used, but problematic products. Happy to provide reasoning for these if needed.

 

I have spent the last couple of months updating my wire harness's adding relays/fuse boxes for my many add-ons. I spent a lot of time cursing while removing these types of bubba mods that had failed and or were about to fail. I am a electronic tech geek as well as being very particular about things so I always use solder and adhesive lined heat shrink tube.
I will never deal with it again and it will never cause me to be stranded because I spend the time to do it the right way.

Cheers,
Richard