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Hello friends, i received a quote from a company that is potentially going to be building an engine for me. I am seeking input from the more experienced on here as i have never done an engine swap before. please tell me if i would be getting ripped off or not if i went through with this build.
It looks to me the price is good especially for turn key.
The 383 I am building from a bare block will come in around $4K with a flat tappet cam and I do all the work. Roller cam would add to my cost so you are getting a good deal.
Thanks for the advice however I already have, in my current set up, installed a digital 6A and plan to reuse it, so I'm sure that it wouldn't matter much if I changed distributors.
Seems very reasonable to me. My recent 454 rebuild (new pistons, cam, lifters, valves, springs, bronze guides, assembly, machining, break-in and dyno) cost about the same as your quote and way more parts are included in your list.
Last edited by barkingrats; Aug 25, 2020 at 10:41 AM.
Thanks for the advice however I already have, in my current set up, installed a digital 6A and plan to reuse it, so I'm sure that it wouldn't matter much if I changed distributors.
The ignition box has nothing to do with the timing curve. Street fire distributor does not lend itself well to be curved...the GM Distributor is spot on.
It looks like a solid build...there are a couple of things I would spec different but the biggest one being the M55HV oil pump. I wouldn't let them build it or give a deposit unless it was spec'd with a standard volume pump.
Also....if you have a box....I would want the corresponding MSD distributor spec'd as well......it is much smaller and plugs right in to your box. Either 8362 or 85551, I can't remember......
delete & fleabay the 6 box; wholly unnecessary (during 4 hrs dyno / run-in, shop is tuning new brawler carb & dist right?)
also substitute a Standard pump for that HV pump. Suggest M155 w/ larger tube and have shop set up bearing clearances accordingly.
also substitute the GM HEI for that streetfire
Those are old-fashioned Thick-wide rings & pistons. I'd choose more modern thin metric ringpack design rings & pistons. I'd also choose 6" rods (w/ appropriate pistons) instead of 5.7".
That cast eagle crank's OK but it's higher $ than most cast because it will internal balance w/ 5.7" rods-pistons. But if you go to 6" rods-pistons, most any crank will internal balance.
Doesnt sound bad esp dynoed and ready to run with accessories. Not crazy about engine pro or Proform but probably fine.
A steel crank is fine unless youre twisting it to the moon they can take some abuse.
Hello friends, i received a quote from a company that is potentially going to be building an engine for me. I am seeking input from the more experienced on here as i have never done an engine swap before. please tell me if i would be getting ripped off or not if i went through with this build.
A couple questions:
Is this quote from a shop in Lapeer, Mi?
Did you get the motor done, and if so, are you happy with it?
Actually looks like a good deal with some solid parts. Should run great.
Installation and dyno run is included in that price! Even better. That's worth 600-800 each.
Did you get the motor done, and if so, are you happy with it?
It is, how did you conclude this? Also i still haven't received it. I called them about it in the beginning of dec. And they said it should be done in a couple weeks from when I called. So it should be any day now that they will ship it.
It is, how did you conclude this? Also i still haven't received it. I called them about it in the beginning of dec. And they said it should be done in a couple weeks from when I called. So it should be any day now that they will ship it.
I contacted the same place, the quotes looked very similar, so I figured I’d ask and see what your feedback was. I’m local and was considering heading up there to plunk money down, but the roads are a skating rink today.
Very interested in hearing about your experience with them. Is delivery in a few weeks within the timeline they quoted?
I’m doing a 383, but want a stock look. Planning on taking my cast iron 4bbl intake, ram horns, and Q-Jet in for port matching/dyno tune. They’re going to use a set of camelbacks with 2.02/1.60 valves at my request. Requested a cam that’s good from off idle to 5500. My quote has a Comp hydraulic roller cam on it, but no specs, only “custom grind”. They’re also recommending a pretty loose converter (3000 stall), which seems iffy for a 4000lb car with a 3.31 gear. I’d like to see around 400hp, but I really want the car to have good street manners. Anything will be an improvement over the stock 283, but that converter recommendation is causing me some hesitation.
Last edited by ZeroDark30; Dec 30, 2020 at 09:10 AM.
Yeah, it’s a 67 full size coupe, not a Vette. I have a C8 to keep me in with the cool kids, but it’s hard driving an 18 second grocery getter now, so time for a heart transplant for the old girl.
Ended up in C3 section after a search for 383 and roller cam info.
Last edited by ZeroDark30; Dec 30, 2020 at 09:24 PM.
Kind of ironic but they just called today saying they are almost finished, Monday at the latest, to have it on Dino and ready to ship. I asked them if they could ship it with a lift gate too and they said it wasn't a problem :>
Here's the links to the dino. Made way more power than anticipated. Saw it hit 482 at its peak. Ships in the next couple days and I'll have it in about a week.
Engine invoice imput
