When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good news! I got the panel out from the rear window without issue after seeing your photo. It was just "stuck" a little bit but popped right out. In regards to testing the power window motor with direct 12v, how would i apply the 12v directly to it? My test light comes in today so i'll be able to test the connector properly for power supply but drawing a blank when it comes to getting direct power from the battery to the motor. I do have a secondary battery i can use for this type of testing if that helps simplify it. Hopefully i can get through the power window troubleshooting today or this weekend so i can order the parts and move on to the power locks.
I also replied to purchase that service manual which if it has photos like the one above, it will help so much.
You just need to connect a wire to one of the motor terminals and then touch it on the positive battery post, either nothing will happen or the window will go up or down. Then connect the wire to the other motor terminal and again touch it on the battery positive, either nothing will happen or it will go up or down. If the window goes up and down then there's nothing wrong with the motor or mechanism and likely your problem is in the switch. If it doesn't, then try connecting a separate wire from the motor casing to the battery negative terminal and repeat the exercise. If the window now works you have a bad earth.
Just tried and the motor WORKS! It sparked right up and the window went down and up right away. So that's good news there. I know the driver side switch works so i can swap it over and see if that makes it work. Not sure if this is accurate or not but when i took my test light to the connector that goes to the motor, i got no light on either terminal but when i plugged it into the motor, i did hear it clicking so i think my test was just bad. Learning this as a go so I'm expecting to get it wrong a few times lol. A new switch is cheap so hopefully that's all it is!
You just saved me so much headache! It was the switch lol. Swapped them and the passenger side worked fine. I'll order a new switch, maybe two just to save the other from failing later. Wish all the other things were this easy!
Is there something similar i can do with the power locks? They don't work either but since everything is tucked behind the panel, i'm hoping there is an easy way to test that also for if the switch is bad.
You're right, the door lock solenoids are not easy to get to. I'd suggest you pull the plug off the back of the drivers side switch (not the passenger side). There should be 5 wires going into this plug, the tan and the grey wires go to the solenoids. If you earth one of these and put 12 volts on the other one, both solenoids should either lock or unlock. If you switch the earth and 12 volts around both solenoids should move in the opposite direction. If this happens then your solenoids are okay, if it doesn't then either the solenoids are shot or your mechanism is jammed or too stiff to move. Can you lock/unlock the doors with the key and the interior *****?
They don't move when i pull or push the lock **** on the door panel. I don't remember the last time the doors were locked so it's either jammed or something is out. I just found this great guide on how to do your test. I'll try it out shortly and see if it moves in either direction. What if it moves into the locked position but not the unlock? I won't/shouldn't shut the door because i won't be able to unlock it right?
I did as the guide above mentioned. Did one wire to the negative on the battery and one on the positive. I switched the wires on the terminal to try the other direction and nothing either way. It appears the actuator itself is shot and needs to be replaced.
Update: I also tested a typical ground and 12 v to the actuator also but got the same result still. I just seen how i can manually lock or unlock the door with a screw driver so i can try that to make sure it's not seized up or anything. More might need to be replaced than just the actuator. They sure did make it fun to work on the doors lol
Last edited by michael king; Sep 27, 2020 at 05:46 PM.
Before you condemn any parts I would suggest pulling out the door mechanism. It could very well be bunked up with dirt and old dried out grease. Give it a good cleaning and some new grease and see if that doesn't solve the problem. You have to remove the door panel but do not have to remove the window assembly, just put the window in the up position.
do the door operators work easily or are they hard to open? Hard would also indicate they are bummed up.
getting those thing in and out is a real pain. You will need a small socket with two extension and a u joint just to get at the mounting bolts. Don't do this in front of little children. LOL.
if I'm wrong and your door lock actuator still inoperable I'll bet your door handles will work a lot easier so it is still a worthwhile effort.
The driver side seems to want to move and i recall it working at some point. The passenger side is definitely on the tough side when trying to use the outside handle to open. From the looks, it's never been cleaned or maintenance so I'd imagine it's just really rough. I'll do some more messing around with it to see if i can loosen it up. I assume though since the actuator didn't react at all that it's bad and has to be replaced. From the videos i've seen, the door locking assembly is a serious pain so 12 pack and Metallica here i come!