Replacing 72 small block front hubs
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 363
Likes: 3
From: Norwalk Ca
Replacing 72 small block front hubs
My apologies if this has been asked already. Tried searching and most of the threads were too technical for my simple mind. I have a 72 small block, stock motor and brake system. I'm considering changing out my front hubs at the same time I replace the front pads and rotors. My car does not have very good stopping power and I have noticed my rotors appear to be in poor shape with worn spots and chipping around the edges. I saw Corvette mods has a sale on front hubs at $179 that includes races and bearings. I plan on using stock pads and rotors. Without getting too technical, can I replace the hubs purchases from Corvette mods, install new pads and rotors without having to worry about runout?
Thank you in advance for the advice.
Thank you in advance for the advice.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,251
Likes: 4,319
From: US-PNW
The only way to achieve extremely little to no appreciable run-out is if all the machining is done on the assembled unit. If the rotors are surfaced on a different mounting than what will be on the car, there will just about be a guarantee you'll see run-out. The issue arises because the mating surfaces of the hub and rotor are not perfect however doing the machining with them together eliminates these variances.
You could replace the rotors and hubs and then have them machined on the car as an installed assembly.
You could replace the rotors and hubs and then have them machined on the car as an installed assembly.
Last edited by barkingrats; Sep 3, 2020 at 04:39 PM.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 696
Likes: 193
From: USA
My apologies if this has been asked already. Tried searching and most of the threads were too technical for my simple mind. I have a 72 small block, stock motor and brake system. I'm considering changing out my front hubs at the same time I replace the front pads and rotors. My car does not have very good stopping power and I have noticed my rotors appear to be in poor shape with worn spots and chipping around the edges. I saw Corvette mods has a sale on front hubs at $179 that includes races and bearings. I plan on using stock pads and rotors. Without getting too technical, can I replace the hubs purchases from Corvette mods, install new pads and rotors without having to worry about runout?
Thank you in advance for the advice.
Thank you in advance for the advice.
https://www.filterspro.com/WHEEL-HUB...p_1970569.html
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Do you have power or manual brakes?
There is a really good possibility that there's nothing wrong with your hubs (at least nothing that affects the brakes), if the bearings are shot you'd have a growl or something along those lines. I'd leave the hubs alone at this point. You can check the feel when you have the calipers off to do the pads / rotors
If the rotors are the original ones to the car they are riveted onto the hubs and need to have the rivets drilled out to let them come off, not really a problem or hard job to do with a hand drill and bit of time
You need a dial indicator to check the runout of the new rotors, you might be able to rent / borrow one from your local store (napa ?) really you can't change the rotors without being able to check the runout of the new ones.
You can shim the rotors to get them within spec, soda cans / shim stock can be used or the tapered shims shown above once you know how much you need
Pads are easy to change
IF YOU REMOVE THE ROTORS AND PLAN TO REUSE THEM YOU NEED TO MARK WHERE THEY ARE INDEXED TO THE HUB !
M
There is a really good possibility that there's nothing wrong with your hubs (at least nothing that affects the brakes), if the bearings are shot you'd have a growl or something along those lines. I'd leave the hubs alone at this point. You can check the feel when you have the calipers off to do the pads / rotors
If the rotors are the original ones to the car they are riveted onto the hubs and need to have the rivets drilled out to let them come off, not really a problem or hard job to do with a hand drill and bit of time
You need a dial indicator to check the runout of the new rotors, you might be able to rent / borrow one from your local store (napa ?) really you can't change the rotors without being able to check the runout of the new ones.
You can shim the rotors to get them within spec, soda cans / shim stock can be used or the tapered shims shown above once you know how much you need
Pads are easy to change
IF YOU REMOVE THE ROTORS AND PLAN TO REUSE THEM YOU NEED TO MARK WHERE THEY ARE INDEXED TO THE HUB !
M
Last edited by Mooser; Sep 3, 2020 at 06:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 363
Likes: 3
From: Norwalk Ca
My car has manual brakes (no brake booster). My rotors look pretty worn especially at the edges. I was thinking along the lines that I might as well replace pads, rotors and hubs at the same time. I'm thinking the hubs are original so it would be nice to have a new set of hubs while I'm at it. Looking into buying a dial indicator but the prices are all over the place. thinking of the Wen dial indicator and magnetic base, around $80 for both. New pads, hubs, and rotors I'm estimating to be around $500.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,336
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
Honestly the hubs are probably fine, maybe need the bearings replaced but unless the hub is bent/broke... Now if you're not up to tackling installing bearings then maybe the hub assembly is the way to go
Any indicator that will read in .001" increments would be fine, the mag base is sometimes questionable since there's not a great place to stick it to in a lot of cases, maybe see if you can find one that has a clamp / vicegrip on the end of a flexible stem (harbor freight pittsberg clamping indicator type thing, yeah it's not starrett or mitutoyo but this isn't exactly aerospace either)
M
Any indicator that will read in .001" increments would be fine, the mag base is sometimes questionable since there's not a great place to stick it to in a lot of cases, maybe see if you can find one that has a clamp / vicegrip on the end of a flexible stem (harbor freight pittsberg clamping indicator type thing, yeah it's not starrett or mitutoyo but this isn't exactly aerospace either)
M
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,251
Likes: 4,319
From: US-PNW
The hub really doesn't get any wear unless your bearing goes bad. The only other part that could need replacing is a wheel stud, but again, you wouldn't need to replace the hub, just the stud. A wheel bearing and race is a wear item that could well need replacing.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 295
Likes: 58
From: Arvada Colorado
I agree that there is probably nothing wrong with your hubs. As far as shimming the rotors to reduce runout, this is not that difficult. If you want to be a bit precise, you can get shims that fit over your wheel studs from McMaster Carr. They come is a variety of thicknesses. They are called ring shims.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,235
Likes: 658
From: Thunder Bay
I also agree that replacing hubs is not a normal service item. I would expect them to last the life of the vehicle unless they have failed from a lack of maintenance. And even then, it is more likely that I would replace the bearings and races than the entire hub. Inspect the bearings. If they are OK, repack them and reassemble. The brake pads and rotors are a separate issue. I have been lucky with replacing rotors and ending up with acceptable runout, but that's exactly what it is. Luck! Check your runout carefully and if its out, correct it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 363
Likes: 3
From: Norwalk Ca
Thank you for all the input. I purchased a dial indicator and magnetic base (both Wen) as well as dial caliper(Husky) all from Home Depot. Had a gift card that covered the purchases. Once I get the purchases delivered, the car will go up on jack stands and I’ll tear apert the front brakes and drill out the rotors. New rotors and pads will be installed. Any recommendations on a good brake bleeder? I prefer a pump up bleeder instead of the vacuum gun bleeder. I have a vacuum gun bleeder and it doesn’t work that well.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 363
Likes: 3
From: Norwalk Ca
So, another question. What is the consensus on the best drilled rotors and pads to purchase? My car is pretty much stock but the braking can definitely be improved. Is Power Stop any good or Brake Performance? There's bad reviews for both. What has worked well for forum members?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,144
Likes: 196
From: Englewood FL
Before purchasing anything from Corvette Mods, check out the Transaction feedback section!
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vettemods.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vettemods.html
Last edited by mark79,80; Sep 14, 2020 at 05:50 AM.
