1968 - issues with starting
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2020
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i have no experience doing this but i can certainly try and figure out a way to perform a test like that.
Last edited by Don Capak; Sep 6, 2020 at 02:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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now we are getting into stuff i never looked it. When i took it out it felt good but do you mean side to side play at the rotor button if i shake it?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Northern Wisconsin
Yes, side-to-side play. I would remove the rotor button and wiggle directly on the distributor shaft to look for side-to-side play. Excessive play there would mean worn distributor shaft bearings.
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https://youtu.be/izFfCm62_EI
Last edited by Don Capak; Sep 6, 2020 at 02:22 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Northern Wisconsin
You didn't reply to my question earlier about valve clearance/interference depending on whether you have solid or hydraulic valve lifters. This can be critical, because if this isn't set quite right, there could be enough clearance in the valve train when cold to allow the valves to close and the engine to start, but when warm, parts expand and clearance goes away to the point where the valves are held open slightly, so it won't start when warm, but will start when cold.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 1,164
From: Northern Wisconsin
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2020
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You didn't reply to my question earlier about valve clearance/interference depending on whether you have solid or hydraulic valve lifters. This can be critical, because if this isn't set quite right, there could be enough clearance in the valve train when cold to allow the valves to close and the engine to start, but when warm, parts expand and clearance goes away to the point where the valves are held open slightly, so it won't start when warm, but will start when cold.
i have done mult methods of tightening, from the one cyl at a time, to running and tightening to the vice grip garage who cares where the cam is method.
i found this motor is very sensitive to how much you tighten them. It seemed to prefer fairly loose, max half a turn after zero lash.
Last edited by Don Capak; Sep 6, 2020 at 02:28 PM.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2019
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From: Northern Wisconsin
After watching your video, I am wondering if it is getting enough fuel to the carb. I know you said the whole fuel system is new, so I assume that means a new fuel pump among other things, but there may be a restriction inside the fuel tank or in the fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump. Have you disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor and pumped fuel into a container while cranking the engine to see if you are getting good fuel flow? Does the engine start better if you pour a small but continuous stream of gas into the carb while trying to start?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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After watching your video, I am wondering if it is getting enough fuel to the carb. I know you said the whole fuel system is new, so I assume that means a new fuel pump among other things, but there may be a restriction inside the fuel tank or in the fuel line between the tank and the fuel pump. Have you disconnected the fuel line from the carburetor and pumped fuel into a container while cranking the engine to see if you are getting good fuel flow? Does the engine start better if you pour a small but continuous stream of gas into the carb while trying to start?
Last edited by Don Capak; Sep 6, 2020 at 03:39 PM.
Thread Starter
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Melting Slicks
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From: Northern Wisconsin
fuel pump is new, fuel regualtor set at 4.5psi, two filters, one after the tank unit and one before the carb. Both are clear and free. Tank was siphoned out. Take a look at rhis sending unti sock. Should it be black? It did have water in the tank before due.to water dripping directly onto the gas cap whe in the sea box. When i first got it i put the line in the bucket and it looked ok. New pump havent done that. Should i video this for you guys?
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I think you intended to attach a photo of the sending unit sock, but forgot to. It sounds like there was an issue with water in the fuel, so if that wasn't completely flushed out, and new fuel put in the tank, then that could still be a problem. Did you try pouring a slow, steady stream of fuel into the carb while cranking to see if that helps?
Melting Slicks
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From: Northern Wisconsin
Le Mans Master
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If I read right you are using an Edelbrock Carb? It's the carb, they have 4 pressed in plugs in the bottom of the carb that leak the fuel into the intake manifold while it sits so that when you try to start it won't stay running until the fuel pump has filled the float bowls again.
Take the carb off, and epoxy (JB weld) those 4 plugs, and I guarantee it will start normally after it's been sitting. I have seen them leak so badly that it filled a cylinder with liquid (gasoline), and hydraulic the engine.
To confirm this try cold cranking it next time for about 10-15 seconds BEFORE TOUCHING THE THROTTLE, then pump it a couple of times, and I will lay odds it starts normally, and stays running.
Edit: Your video was extremely helpful
Take the carb off, and epoxy (JB weld) those 4 plugs, and I guarantee it will start normally after it's been sitting. I have seen them leak so badly that it filled a cylinder with liquid (gasoline), and hydraulic the engine.
To confirm this try cold cranking it next time for about 10-15 seconds BEFORE TOUCHING THE THROTTLE, then pump it a couple of times, and I will lay odds it starts normally, and stays running.
Edit: Your video was extremely helpful
Last edited by centuryoldracer; Sep 6, 2020 at 04:38 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Redondo Beach, California
Just to add a general comment. One good thing to have in your box of tricks, for diagnosing hard start/failure to start problems, is a can of spray ether. In auto supply stores, the spray cans are usually labelled as diesel starting fluid. If your distributor timing, ignition system is OK, the engine will start and run as you spray ether iinto the carb. As a general comment, if the engine starts and runs on ether......you have a fuel supply problem. If the engine won't start or run on ether.......you have a timing/ignition problem.
When you spray ether into the carb, hold the can at arm's length.....if you have a timing problem, you can get a pretty healthy fireball out of the carb.
When you spray ether into the carb, hold the can at arm's length.....if you have a timing problem, you can get a pretty healthy fireball out of the carb.
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I do have ether so i will give all of your suggestions a go. Heres a fun story. After redoing that choke i decided to check battery voltage...18v to the battery and the coil. Apparently wiring the choke there was a bad idea. Remove the wire off thr choke causing alternator volts to drop to 14. So i am fixing that. Im sure that was greaattttttt for that module
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 34
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If I read right you are using an Edelbrock Carb? It's the carb, they have 4 pressed in plugs in the bottom of the carb that leak the fuel into the intake manifold while it sits so that when you try to start it won't stay running until the fuel pump has filled the float bowls again.
Take the carb off, and epoxy (JB weld) those 4 plugs, and I guarantee it will start normally after it's been sitting. I have seen them leak so badly that it filled a cylinder with liquid (gasoline), and hydraulic the engine.
To confirm this try cold cranking it next time for about 10-15 seconds BEFORE TOUCHING THE THROTTLE, then pump it a couple of times, and I will lay odds it starts normally, and stays running.
Edit: Your video was extremely helpful
Take the carb off, and epoxy (JB weld) those 4 plugs, and I guarantee it will start normally after it's been sitting. I have seen them leak so badly that it filled a cylinder with liquid (gasoline), and hydraulic the engine.
To confirm this try cold cranking it next time for about 10-15 seconds BEFORE TOUCHING THE THROTTLE, then pump it a couple of times, and I will lay odds it starts normally, and stays running.
Edit: Your video was extremely helpful