Front Hubs & Rotor Runout?
Thread Starter
Old Fart Pilot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,929
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From: Spokane, WA
Front Hubs & Rotor Runout?
I'm still new to all this so please confirm my thoughts about the front end portion of my '71 rebuild:
If I get a NOS GM front hub with the rotor riveted on, I shouldn't have to worry about rotor run-out - correct?
Did the hub/rotor assemblies come with races preinstalled? If so, would I need to replace them with Timken races if installing new Timken bearings?
After cleaning up the spindle and checking for damage, would I only need to pack new bearings with grease, install the inner bearing into the hub, mount hub/rotor onto spindle, install outer bearing and then torque the nut properly before inserting the cotter pin and hub cover ?
Thanks,
paul
If I get a NOS GM front hub with the rotor riveted on, I shouldn't have to worry about rotor run-out - correct?
Did the hub/rotor assemblies come with races preinstalled? If so, would I need to replace them with Timken races if installing new Timken bearings?
After cleaning up the spindle and checking for damage, would I only need to pack new bearings with grease, install the inner bearing into the hub, mount hub/rotor onto spindle, install outer bearing and then torque the nut properly before inserting the cotter pin and hub cover ?
Thanks,
paul
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Hi Paul. From my limited experience. No, I would not exspect to put on a new NOS hub/rotor and find runout in spec. Not clear on weather races are installed or not. But timkin style bearings are normally sold in a set. Race and bearing.
Over here in Australia, there are a few companies that come out and resurface your rotors on the car. I have found this to be THE best way to get rotors running true. They spin the rotors on the car on the bearings and spindles they run on and surface grind them true. Something I will always pay for with new rotors. With the exception of my missus little Nissan **** box. I bolted on new Ebay rotors, new Ebay pads and off She went. (3 cylinder shitbox) and Shes happy. But! A real car with a real need for real brakes. NO, I wouldn't think new NOS parts will run true.
Over here in Australia, there are a few companies that come out and resurface your rotors on the car. I have found this to be THE best way to get rotors running true. They spin the rotors on the car on the bearings and spindles they run on and surface grind them true. Something I will always pay for with new rotors. With the exception of my missus little Nissan **** box. I bolted on new Ebay rotors, new Ebay pads and off She went. (3 cylinder shitbox) and Shes happy. But! A real car with a real need for real brakes. NO, I wouldn't think new NOS parts will run true.
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
You can check runout with a $40- tool from Amazon. Perhaps you'll luck out. If not, the best way (as told to me by @DUB and @GTR1999) is to drill the rivets, and add tapered shims between the rotor and the hub. You can then secure the rotor with screws instead of rivets (@GTR1999 has posted instructions, on this Forum and elsewhere on the web). If the runout is close, perhaps a brake lathe is fine. But the rotor thickness tolerance is really tight. It's best not to turn the rotors if you can avoid it.
Good choice on Timken bearings!
Good choice on Timken bearings!
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From: US-PNW
I would not install a non-matching, mixed set of bearings and races. I don't know how much this is reality, but I suspect a manufacturer is going to ensure the angles on both the bearing rollers and the race is matched. Not knowing the make of installed races (if they come that way) may not ensure mating angles.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,232
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From: PHX AZ
I would check run-out REGARDLESS of new or not.
The Spec is .005"
Run-out more than that will cause the caliper seals to fail....besides 'wonky braking'.
Run-out with new well run in wheel bearings and lube is preferred.
Good luck. Hopefully they're not Chinese parts.
Unkahal
The Spec is .005"
Run-out more than that will cause the caliper seals to fail....besides 'wonky braking'.
Run-out with new well run in wheel bearings and lube is preferred.
Good luck. Hopefully they're not Chinese parts.
Unkahal
Thread Starter
Old Fart Pilot
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Spokane, WA
Thanks for all the info guys...as I said I am still new to all this.
If I have to check runout even if the rotor is factory riveted to the hub, then there is no advantage to me to buy the NOS set. I'll just have to resign myself to getting the proper indicator setup and learn how to do the job. I can just restore my original hubs and get new rotors.
Paul
If I have to check runout even if the rotor is factory riveted to the hub, then there is no advantage to me to buy the NOS set. I'll just have to resign myself to getting the proper indicator setup and learn how to do the job. I can just restore my original hubs and get new rotors.
Paul
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,233
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From: Thunder Bay
Thanks for all the info guys...as I said I am still new to all this.
If I have to check runout even if the rotor is factory riveted to the hub, then there is no advantage to me to buy the NOS set. I'll just have to resign myself to getting the proper indicator setup and learn how to do the job. I can just restore my original hubs and get new rotors.
Paul
If I have to check runout even if the rotor is factory riveted to the hub, then there is no advantage to me to buy the NOS set. I'll just have to resign myself to getting the proper indicator setup and learn how to do the job. I can just restore my original hubs and get new rotors.
Paul
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Here's how to check the run-out.
You don't need to replace the rivets, the lug nuts hold the wheel and rotor on.
Here's how to check the run-out.
You don't need to replace the rivets, the lug nuts hold the wheel and rotor on.