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Either side of the cylinder head should have some manufacturer info on it, the section where the alternator and A/C brackets would bolt too. These are symmetrical, so maybe you could see the back side if the fronts are covered.
I went out and looked but there weren't any markings on either side of either cylinder head. It was just "polished" ends.
if I do that would I have to buy new valve cover gaskets?
The answer to that is a solid “maybe”. It depends on how old the current gaskets are and what material they’re made of. It would be good to have them on hand, cuz the only real way to find out is to pull the valve cover. Do you know whether they’re aluminum or iron? A magnet will tell you that quickly.
The answer to that is a solid “maybe”. It depends on how old the current gaskets are and what material they’re made of. It would be good to have them on hand, cuz the only real way to find out is to pull the valve cover. Do you know whether they’re aluminum or iron? A magnet will tell you that quickly.
I did a little bit of research, and I can say that they're not AFR, TFS, Edelbrock and I don't think they're GM heads. My best guess is ProComp, but not 100% sure.
AFR, TFS, Edelbrock have branding and model #s milled into that surface, GM seems to have slightly different patterns from what I can see, and some look like they've got some stamping in at any rate.
notice your torque is perhaps in line with the dyno numbers but your way down on HP. Given you have an air gap intake I would not say the intake is responsible for that. But with those manifolds I would say a high probability that they are.
this is assuming you actually have this cam.
I tend to believe you don’t, given at what rpm max torque And HP was met vs the dyno chart. In either case if it were mine I’d ditch the cast iron manifolds if I wanted more HP .
Last edited by REELAV8R; Sep 27, 2020 at 01:47 PM.
notice your torque is perhaps in line with the dyno numbers but your way down on HP. Given you have an air gap intake I would not say the intake is responsible for that. But with those manifolds I would say a high probability that they are.
this is assuming you actually have this cam.
I tend to believe you don’t, given at what rpm max torque And HP was met vs the dyno chart. In either case if it were mine I’d ditch the cast iron manifolds if I wanted more HP .
also do a search here in the forum for headers, you’ll get all the reading on that subject you can take.
do some google searches as well, there is a ton of info on headers, primary sizes and lengths ( block huggers, shorties and long tube)
I personally lean towards long tube headers for upper rpm gains.
Thank you for the info. I'm gonna read up on it but it will be a while before I can sneak new headers into the garage without my wife knowing.
Would the grade fuel affect the HP? I run Shell 93 octane through it because the previous owner said he only runs that in his cars. I read through an old thread on here about how fuel grade does not actually affect how clean the engine runs and doesn't help with power. If that is true I'm gonna drop down to a lower grade because gas at Sam's Club is so much cheaper than the one Shell station I have nearby.
Thank you for the info. I'm gonna read up on it but it will be a while before I can sneak new headers into the garage without my wife knowing.
Would the grade fuel affect the HP? I run Shell 93 octane through it because the previous owner said he only runs that in his cars. I read through an old thread on here about how fuel grade does not actually affect how clean the engine runs and doesn't help with power. If that is true I'm gonna drop down to a lower grade because gas at Sam's Club is so much cheaper than the one Shell station I have nearby.
Long-tube headers are 100% the way to go, they'll add power everywhere in the curve. Don't get distracted with shorty headers - they're definitely better than the factory exhaust for these cars, but long-tubes are so much better for performance.
As for fuel, as long as you're not pinging and you can run maximum timing for performance, you'd see no difference with better fuel.
The problem you may encounter with Sam's club fuel has ethanol in the fuel. Your vette will run the ethanol but the fuel lines are likely not be ethanol resistant, ethanol requires a richer mixture so carb re-jetting may be required. Give it a shot, most guys are too rich already so you may not have to do anything. fuel lines will slowly degrade internally from the ethanol in the fuel.