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Sounds to me that you have your vacuum advance connected to the wrong port. Should have full manifold vacuum. '73 may have had some emissions system that used ported vacuum, but most cars generally run better connected to full vacuum.
Time the engine with the vacuum disconnected and plugged to 8 degrees BTDC, then add in vacuum and it should idle nicely like that.
Sounds to me that you have your vacuum advance connected to the wrong port. Should have full manifold vacuum. '73 may have had some emissions system that used ported vacuum, but most cars generally run better connected to full vacuum.
Time the engine with the vacuum disconnected and plugged to 8 degrees BTDC, then add in vacuum and it should idle nicely like that.
It's worth a shot. My 80 (nothing radical at all) idled horribly when I accidentally plugged the vacuum advance into the wrong port on the carb. It does great with about 27 degrees initial at idle (15 or so mechanical, plus 12 from the vacuum can connected to manifold vacuum). My HEI dist does 21 degrees of mechanical, to get me to 36 total at 2800 RPM.
As you said, you don't want more than 36 degrees of total mechanical advance.
Nope. Vacuum advance is full manifold. But the timing is set with it disconnected and plugged. If I pull it down to less than 30° initial the engine dies. And yes, I’ve tried it with more throttle. I can barely keep it lit by feathering the throttle/accelerator pump, but without gymnastics, it’s 30° or more to keep running.
Nope. Vacuum advance is full manifold. But the timing is set with it disconnected and plugged. If I pull it down to less than 30° initial the engine dies. And yes, I’ve tried it with more throttle. I can barely keep it lit by feathering the throttle/accelerator pump, but without gymnastics, it’s 30° or more to keep running.
Have you confirmed that the vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum using a vacuum gauge (this was where I messed up, super obvious when I pulled out the gauge to set idle mixture). Have you confirmed that the vacuum can is functioning using a vacuum pump? Perhaps the vacuum can has the wrong range for the vacuum your engine actually makes at idle, or it has failed internally.
At idle, the engine shouldn't know the difference between a dist set to 30 degrees initial with no vacuum advance, and one set to 20 or so with a functioning vacuum can pulling another 10.
Last edited by Bikespace; Sep 22, 2020 at 07:42 PM.
Reason: Changed image
The original poster clearly stated the 30 degrees initial timing is with vacuum DISCONNECTED.
Is there something about your ignition system you are not telling us?
Are you using an MSD unit?
Stock tach drive distributor and can-coil. It had been fitted with a Mallory Unilite module, but as one of the many steps to solve this issue I installed a set of points and a condenser, both AC Delco.
Nope. Vacuum advance is full manifold. But the timing is set with it disconnected and plugged. If I pull it down to less than 30° initial the engine dies. And yes, I’ve tried it with more throttle. I can barely keep it lit by feathering the throttle/accelerator pump, but without gymnastics, it’s 30° or more to keep running.
Not questioning your ability, but are you sure that you used the correct technique to find TDC with that piston stop (rotating one way until stop, then rotating the other way until stop, then find mid point)? That is about all I can come up with. There are videos on YouTube.
You are approaching numbers (30*) that destroys starters. If you are truly at that high of initial setting, you should be getting some serious kick-back.
You say you installed a new Timing Tape. I think its off considerably.
Let’s forget all about vacuum advance please. All of my readings are taken with vacuum advance disconnected and the vacuum port plugged.
I DO appreciate anyone who takes the time to respond. But my issue is with how much initial mechanical advance is needed to keep the engine running. I may be able to mess with it some more and run it (barely) with 25ish degrees of initial mechanical advance. But 30° is where it will run reliably.
I am not talking about Vac advance included. In your first post you mentioned idles nicely at 35 initial. Initial means no additional advance. Won't run below 30* initial.
Somethings not right here. Your tape is showing TDC. You believe that is correct. I do too. But beyond TDC something is off kilter.
I am not talking about Vac advance included. In your first post you mentioned idles nicely at 35 initial. Initial means no additional advance. Won't run below 30* initial.
Somethings not right here. Your tape is showing TDC. You believe that is correct. I do too. But beyond TDC something is off kilter.
And that’s exactly why I’m asking the question here. I’m out of ideas. I guarantee you that my TDC mark is in the right place. That was one of my first ideas so I stripped the front of the engine and checked it, twice, with a piston stop. The mark is right on the money. But since I had no timing tape and the tab only reads to 12° I put the tape on today. I was previously guessing my initial to be around 30° based on measurements I took from my other 454 car that is parked right next to It.
I’m seriously stumped here. The only known quantity is that this engine won’t idle will less advance. I guess my question is really if that’s normal for this engine combination. My other 454 has a slightly milder cam and it runs best with about 20° of initial.
Funny you should ask. I gave away my old timing light to a friend a few months ago. I borrowed it back from him a few days ago just to double check the readings on my newer light.
Some engines barely run with initial timing set at 8 degrees and vacuum advance plugged. If yours won't run at all like that, find out how much your advance adds in then set your timing with the advance pulled in. Say that your vacuum advance adds in 18 degrees. Then you should set "initial plus vacuum" at 8 + 18.
My 69 427 runs best at around 19 to 20 initial and the original MS360 advance can adds an extra 12 degrees. Are you sure your vacuum advance can is working correctly and checked with a timing light? If your vacuum advance is frozen I can see how your engine would like 35 initial at idle but not if everything is working properly.
My 69 427 runs best at around 19 to 20 initial and the original MS360 advance can adds an extra 12 degrees. Are you sure your vacuum advance can is working correctly and checked with a timing light? If your vacuum advance is frozen I can see how your engine would like 35 initial at idle but not if everything is working properly.
Stop being so logical. The OP is out of ideas, but insists on not discussing vacuum advance.
Sorry. Vacuum can be in the mix. But it’s not the problem. I’ll go back to my hole. Forget I asked.
We all want to help (why else would we haunt this Forum), but please give us something to work with. We can't see what you see, and we can take measurements on your car. Lots of folks asked simple questions. If you can provide some more information, the real experts on this Forum will figure it out.
Do you have a vacuum gauge and/or pump? Can you tell us what your vacuum reading is at idle? My mostly stock L48, with 8.5:1 compression or whatever, will idle just fine at (effectively) 27 degrees initial advance. It is very rough and hard to start with less than that. Other than your hot engine, and three degrees, the only difference is that my initial advance is half mechanical, half vacuum.
Last edited by Bikespace; Sep 23, 2020 at 03:01 AM.