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Couldn't get the 2nd C Clip in the yoke flange. Started thinking maybe previous owner bent it. Tried 2nd flange and same thing. Can't compress the cap to get the clip seated. Finally decided to try the half shaft end. Same thing. If I compress to far the joint binds some. All needles are in place. I've checked this 20 times now. Finally took some measurements and it appears the Spicers are longer then advertised. Am I missing something here?
Couldn't get the 2nd C Clip in the yoke flange. Started thinking maybe previous owner bent it. Tried 2nd flange and same thing. Can't compress the cap to get the clip seated. Finally decided to try the half shaft end. Same thing. If I compress to far the joint binds some. All needles are in place. I've checked this 20 times now. Finally took some measurements and it appears the Spicers are longer then advertised. Am I missing something here?
I replaced mine earlier this year. My Spicer joints came with 3 different thicknesses of C Clips. I used the thinnest ones and still had issues with two of them. They would just barely start in the groove and I could not get them to seat where they should. I ended up using a small flat punch and gentle tapping with a hammer to move the clip into its groove and that worked. So far, no issues. I wonder if it would be possible to make the C Clips a little thinner by grinding or sanding?
I replaced mine earlier this year. My Spicer joints came with 3 different thicknesses of C Clips. I used the thinnest ones and still had issues with two of them. They would just barely start in the groove and I could not get them to seat where they should. I ended up using a small flat punch and gentle tapping with a hammer to move the clip into its groove and that worked. So far, no issues. I wonder if it would be possible to make the C Clips a little thinner by grinding or sanding?
DC
So it's not just me. Looks like they are over 0.100" larger then they should be. I did sand a little off the smallest one but then thought something's gotta be wrong. 0.100" is a big deal when your trying to get a good fit with the clips.
May I ask did you have a lot of drag after getting them in?
Yeah, I went through that too. Torque the flanges down to the bearing hubs and then try fitting the U joint. Those flanges tend to bend a little when you press or hammer the old joints out. If that doesn't work you will need to use thinner retainers or file them down. I had to file all of the retainers for both the hubs and drive shafts to get them to fit. You can also buy an assortment of different thickness retainers on Amazon.
I removed by bolting it to the wheel bearing flanged end to prevent possibilities of bending and using a shop press. I don't think their bent after trying to install in the new half shaft and having the same result. I'm gonna look for thinner c clips before looking for a different brand u joints. I find it hard to believe they are longer cap to cap then advertised.
We're your u joints tight to move after getting the clips in?
I removed by bolting it to the wheel bearing flanged end to prevent possibilities of bending and using a shop press. I don't think their bent after trying to install in the new half shaft and having the same result. I'm gonna look for thinner c clips before looking for a different brand u joints. I find it hard to believe they are longer cap to cap then advertised.
We're your u joints tight to move after getting the clips in?
yes tight...but can still move by hand with effort..
i pushed the one end with the clip .( dont go nuts but some pressure..no hitting).also again make sure deburred and clean...if you get part of it in screwdriver and gently tapping seated it..took a few times..i got mine rock auto..look same..
see post 24
Last edited by interpon; Oct 11, 2020 at 05:56 PM.
I have installed a lot of Spicer solid joints. There is no room when installing them. The flange has to be flat, where as smaller cross joints may give you a window of room you won't get with the Spicers. Many of these flanges are bent from previous hack work. Look for dents under the yoke where the tubes were crushed in a vise. If you can't get the copper clips in the flange is bent. Removing and installing a joint in a flange should be done with a 5/8 or 3/4" plate to keep them from bending and burning out the cross works the best.
Here is an old trick that I use all the time. Once you have the joint in, clip in and it feels tight, place it on a 2x4, then another on top and wack HARD with a ball peen. That will seat the joint and work all the time- as long as the flange isn't bent. The plate works as a test tool too, if the flange rocks on it then it is bent.
I have installed a lot of Spicer solid joints. There is no room when installing them. The flange has to be flat, where as smaller cross joints may give you a window of room you won't get with the Spicers. Many of these flanges are bent from previous hack work. Look for dents under the yoke where the tubes were crushed in a vise. If you can't get the copper clips in the flange is bent. Removing and installing a joint in a flange should be done with a 5/8 or 3/4" plate to keep them from bending and burning out the cross works the best.
Here is an old trick that I use all the time. Once you have the joint in, clip in and it feels tight, place it on a 2x4, then another on top and wack HARD with a ball peen. That will seat the joint and work all the time- as long as the flange isn't bent. The plate works as a test tool too, if the flange rocks on it then it is bent.
I thought they might be bent as there was a lot of hack work done with the rear wheel bearings. I went back to storage to test fit on the new Toms shafts I have and they are also a tight fit using the copper coated retainers. I'll mess around with it again sometime after work this week. I'll also try the board trick and see if it frees up.
Did you ever have to sand down the retainers or get thinner ones then supplied?
I need to order a new spindle (hacked from previous owner) and might just get 2 new flange yokes as well. I did bolt them to the wheel bearing flanged end to prevent any bending when I was pressing them on and off.
Bair's charged me a bit extra for insisting on Spicer 1350 U-Joints when they rebuilt my half-shafts. Totally worth it, but difficult even for the professionals.
Bair's charged me a bit extra for insisting on Spicer 1350 U-Joints when they rebuilt my half-shafts. Totally worth it, but difficult even for the professionals.
Yep. I just watched a lengthy very informative YouTube video and the gentleman was having a difficult time installing and getting the retainers in with the Spicers. I'm just glad that it's not just me. I'm gonna get some thinner retainers as I confirmed my flanges aren't bent thankfully. I'll then use the board trick GTR1999 suggested to seat the caps against the smaller retainers and measure my axial movement and go from there.
Spicer 1350 U Joint Install issues
