After building up oil pressure - cranking for a rev or two - is "OK" - the reason I suggested this was to push any oil out of the cylinders. I wouldn't want to crank for very long - but think about how long it takes to get pressure to any bearings when a shop does an oil change - and doesn't prefill the filter.

 

I Rebuilt a 12.25-1 Compression ratio BB 427 for my C3 Convertible back a bunch of years ago. I spent a lot of money having it done the right way. I put it back in the 1968 C3 and many thousands of miles later it still works.

Before starting my 427 High Compression engine I have been using a 20 Volt Dewalt, Battery Operated 1/2" Drill with an older Summit Adapter that allows me to spin the oil pump directly.

The mechanical gauge in my dashboard indicates over 30 psi and within a short period oil starts coming up into my cylinder head oozing out and spreading all over the valve mechanisms. I have been using battery power drills to do this for years on my old 427. I do have a Comp Cam Roller Rocker assembly riding Hardened Push-rods on a Hydraulic Camshaft and quality lifters in between. The cylinder heads I am using are stock for a 1967 or 1968 Corvette and are Cast Iron. When you see the lubrication system working like that it helps understand how they last so long.

I have at times pulled both Valve Covers to "see" and verify that the oil system works with the drill operating the oil pump. It works if you have the proper parts. Mine is 25+ years old. The oil pump is a nice Melling Unit, nothing unusual.

I do not understand how they can make statements like that you can't use a "battery" powered drill. The DeWalt brand is a great product line and plenty strong enough. I used to use a 12 volt but the newer 20 Volt battery had no trouble.

Pre-Lubing like this can certainly make starting a dry engine a whole lot happier. I also pull the Spark Plugs out and squirt about 1-1.5 ounces of light motor oil into the cylinder before the first movement of the piston. I will then crank the engine with the plugs out for about 10-15 seconds. Plugs in and we are ready to start this little 427.

 

Its not so much that a cordless won't work but rather what a toll it takes on the cordless drill & battery.
I have Dewalt cordless also. Use them 4 - 6 days a week, several hours a day in my line of work. But eventually, that constant drain on the battery shortens its life.
I ask, why do that (oil pump) to a tool not designed for certain jobs?

I have burned up a few corded drills too. One was a Dewalt. That one was over $300.

The do-it-yourself tool industry keeps raising the voltage on cordless tools: 9V, 12V 14.4V, 20V and so on. Some have longer running times than others. But you still have to keep buying battery packs and they just keep going up. I am tired of spending $70 for a battery pack. I am tired of charging batteries. I am tired of waiting for a charged battery.
For turning SBC oil pumps, I now have a corded Milwaukee with T handle that can break your arm.

Rant over. Thankyou.

 

As suggested, homemade primer using a mid-eighties computer controlled distributor (didn't want to sacrifice an HEI distributor).👍

 

I have the Proform primer and it has worked for me for over ten years......
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66896
I spin it with a brushless DeWalt XRP drill 20v.......no issues, can spin it for five minutes easy.....if nothing happens in five minutes.....there are other issues.

Jebby

 

You have to watch priming tools. I know the OEM brand one which worked for small blocks for me would not work with the big block. I got a proform one and all is now well. There are some tools that the machined sleeve is not tight enough to work on big blocks.

 

This is what I have been using for as long as I can remember. Just need a core, a hammer, a punch, and a screwdriver. No real need to destroy a gear this way. Obvously you can improve on it but it does get the job done.