I still find it really odd that no one offers a sub-64cc chamber in cheaper aluminum heads for the SBC. There are a LOT ov people out there with low comp engines that could use a cheap CR boost. Is EVERYTHING 64cc or bigger?

I might be the exception, but i stick with my 'buy quality and bigger than you need now' mindset. I cannot count how many times i've heard guys saying 'Yeah... i wish i'd bought the bigger heads'... the second they take their engines apart for a rebuild/refresh. EVERY time. I dont mean 225cc monsters... just... not the entry level. Its like building a smaller shop... you always regret it down the road. Or... you'll just end up buying another pair ov heads (some people dont mind spending money). I'm too cheap and poor to not plan ahead.

 

Oddly enough. A great number of us Vette owners are not so young anymore. And have a very good idea of what we want the first time.
personally I've had mine for over 30 years. The OP sounds about the same if not having his car even longer.
thinking if we wanted to build HUGE power and break things, we would have done that when we were much younger.
I ripped out enough U joints went I was younger.
Now it's time for car shows and cruises.
sounds like this maybe is where the OP is more or less. Just looking for a reliable driver. Would like to stop the smoke at startup
and thinking the original heads are most likely not really worth fixing up. And maybe in the process gain a bit, but not looking to go crazy. Well at least that what I have gotten out of his posts.
Shoot for future more power? Think harder about the original post and question.
Rant over.

 

$549 for a pair of complete 59cc heads not cheap enough for you? Thats the second link in my last post. The thing with the cheaper heads is theres a few places casting them in china and a lot of "companies" rebranding and selling the same castings... some do a better job of cleaning them up and use better quality components but then they often charge quite a bit extra in markup as well.

The OPs first comment gave me the impression hes not really looking for anything crazy as far as heads but figures if im going to replace my factory heads, why not kill two bird with one stone as long as it doesnt cost too much. which is why I linked new budget heads others have had good luck with. those are the "pro comp" type castings which have been around a long time now and have been improved. Nothing spectacular but certainly an improvement over stock.

As for bigger heads... The issue for me would have been if I had gone with anything bigger than 180 heads on my 355 and then lost port velocity. Because how often do you think people do what your suggesting and buy parts that are a mismatch for their current combo and drive a dog around unsatisfied only to lose interest or never get around to doing bigger or better things with their engine? I think if a person is going to consider heads with larger intake runners he or she would want to be very sure there are more upgrades coming to support them. Its no different than a noob putting way too big of a cam in their first engine and wondering why the car cant get out of its own way. All things in time and at the proper time is the best route.

 

I am building a 69' 350/350 that will be updated with these this fall......from what I have seen, these are the heads everyone wanted for years but nobody made.
Beware of cheap heads.....it is not so much the casting and parts but how they are put together......I would never run a cheap head as assembled, in fact I will not by an assembled head period after what I have seen in the performance industry...that goes for Dart, Brodix, AFR etc......I urge you to buy bare castings with valve job and assemble yourself or have them done professionally. And twenty guys here will tell you that they had no problems with pre-assembled stuff, that's great....but do you want to be the guy whose heads were assembled on Friday afternoon at 3:30 by a 21 year old pothead named Seth?

The Trick Flows my customer bought are assembled, but he pulled them apart to paint them, and I told him to leave them that way.......I will not bolt them to an engine unless guide clearance, valve lap, and install heights are all checked.....as well as if the valve seals are worth a **** (you would be surprised).

I would not hesitate to bolt a pair of these to your engine........we are using the Performer EPS.

Jebby

 

I almost suggested buying bare and assembling myself. I too have read some are just thrown together with poor weak springs.

 

Ellison machine shop has a nice video explaining why machine shop heads cost more than Jegs or Summit . He unboxed a set of complete Pontiac Edelbrock heads and removed the valve springs then turned the head over and only 3 valves fell out as the other 5 were too tight to drop out , he said this isn’t a dig on Edelbrock or any of the other manufacturers but a simple reason why they go through brand new complete heads and give it a valve job that complements the customers camshaft

 

I’ve had this car along time, since 73 actually. I’m not looking to building serious power cause If I want to go fast I got a couple of motorcycles for that fix, so I’m looking to fix the smoke and add a little power. I’m leaning toward some iron heads, I’d like the vortec heads but hood clearance becomes a issue. What I’m looking at is iron heads 64 cc w8th 170ish runners, performer intake and 600 Holley. Plan on using the cast iron manifolds as I have no desire to deal with headers. Also, plan to add a cruise control as I want to do some long trips like what my wife and I talked about when we were dating in it in 75. Yea, it’s part of the family.

 

The Dart Iron Eagle S/S 165cc is a direct replacement head.....and you will gain some power in the process:
https://dartheads.com/iron-eagle-23-165cc-s-s-heads/

Jebby

 

Trick flow DOES make a 58cc head its for the 305 guys. 1.94 valve...which is fine for a mild 350. Id rather see you grab the 60cc double humps they make.

Those 500 heads...I wouldnt. A half decent valve train setup will run you 400+ they cant be putting anything good in there.

Agree! telling others to buy something you grow into is **** poor advice! Why, to hate the engine you drive now?
Did that many yrs ago with a 350..figured 200cc wasnt that big. Hardly any difference from the 462 I was pissed.
I had them ported thinking that would fix it. Now they were 230cc (on a 350 you can figure out the rest). Wasnt til I saw the flow sheet I saw the note they poured 215 out of the box. Thanks Dart.

Long story short I assmbled a radical sounding turd. It was SO slow...
I cheaped out..coulda waited 2 mos for the new AFRs and probably been happy with the 350.

The engine they are on today pulls super hardprobably makes decent hp..not as much torque as with one of todays heads. Oh well!

These dynos on YT dont show part throttle driveablility, low end torque, throttle response only WOT #s and flow #s to sell sponsored parts. Easy to get sucked up in that and build a poor performer.

 

It never fails to amaze me at the depth of knowledge on this forum. I appreciate everyone’s comments. When I put these heads on and a new intake and carb I’m just going to drive it and do maintenance. Thanks to all.

 

Replacing valve seals is a pretty easy 3-4 hour job in the car. Not sure I would replace heads for a puff of smoke on startup.

 

C4 aluminum "113" heads are good for about 350 hp (Which is right where your 268 is) and bolt on. 58cc chambers. stock valve springs are good for about .500 lift. sometimes you can find them at swap meets for just a few hundred.

https://www.compcams.com/xe268h

They are what I run.

 

I wanna see how that 350 Jebby is building turns out. What cam are you running?
EPS is the perfect intake for that

If I could round up funds to do a carb legal 383 for my 88 Id gladly sell the 113s..

 

well, you know............. pick up a tad of horsepower and I’m going to change the intake anyway so why not?

 

Makes sense to me. Fixed some bent pushrods by putting an entirely different engine under them. The car disease

 

Howard’s Hydraulic Roller. 227/233@.050 .560/.560 on a 110. Through ported 2.5” C2 Manifolds....stocking looking sleeper type.

Jebby

 

I really like my World Products S/R iron heads with 67cc chambers. They will keep compression low enough and if you use FelPro 0.015" steel shim heads gaskets you will get better quench too. They use your stock or Performser intake. They are only $600 each and many shops will pocket port them for a little more money if you buy them through them.

 

The First link was iron, which for me is moot. Weight is a massive concern for me. I'd never buy iron. The second link said '59'... in the header, but the specs said 64cc. There HAS to be a sub 60cc aluminum head out there. Christ... there are hundreds and hundreds ov head options for the SBC. I quit looking... but i didn't look long. They have to be out there. I mean entry level or 'cheap'... not SP2 crazy...

 

Is that an LT1 or LT 4 head? Or earlier? I always wondered about those LT4 heads. They make wicked power, and were apparently quite a bit bigger than the LT1 heads. By far the most powerful SBC ever produced, and they said the heads were a big part ov that. How hard is it to find used LT4 heads around? A quick googlin' tells me '902' or '690' castings, AND... a 54.5cc chamber. Used means cheap too.... if you can find them.

 

Are the stock pistons close enough to the deck to get quench...???