I’ve noticed some smoke in startup. Going to need valve seals would be my guess so I’ve been thinking about putting a set of new heads in it. Got a comp 268 cam in it now. I’m thinking of some heads with a 64cc chamber to up compression. I’ve been out of the hot rod side for way to long so I’m open for suggestions on this.

 

Might be too much compression for the existing cam.
You could cam up a bit to match it. Need some more details on what you have now and what you want it to be.

 

I dont know what the specs are of that cam I have a smaller voodoo262 cam with 64cc heads and flat tops with steel shim gaskets (12cc flat tops) I bought this shortblock which had originally had for a few thousand miles, The comp 268he cam in it with 64cc world sportmen heads. I swapped the cam along with a refresh on bearing and new crank. Point is the previous owner said it ran great that way.

 

It has 8.5 to 1 compression. Factory pistons. I was thinking of heads with 64 cc. I think it would raise compression by a point. Going to run a Performer and 600 Holley so it fits under stock hood

 

Get a aluminum head with a Intake port in the 175 to 190 cc range along with the 64cc chamber and call it done

 

AFR. I wouldn't consider anything else at the entry level. Dont buy the smallest one either, plan ahead.

 

Well, that's interesting. However, doesn't that really have a lot to do with what your trying to achieve. Not to mention budget? AFR heads are certainly not the least expensive. And it looks like there set up with valve springs for roller cams. Which is great of course if one's budget also allows for a roller Cam convertion, or changing out the valve springs.
Edelbrock E Steet heads are no comparison to AFR's. But about half the price and set up for a stock flat tappet cam. And even then, there still far better than most stock heads of the 70's
Just sayin, lots of choices out there and a lot of different prices.
me, I don't have AFR's. They were way outside my budget.

 

Hahaha... Well, you'll have to excuse me, i come from Moparland. AFR's are still cheaper than anything i can buy for any Mopar engine. I WISH they'd made stuff for Mopar. I'm the poorest guy on this forum, but i'd still consider the base AFR heads a bargain for what you get. I dont like to compromise though... the heads absolutely make or break the engine. If there is one thing to never skimp on in the engine compartment... its heads. Also... since i started shopping for a Corvette, i've kept an eye on used parts too. In three months i've seen no less than three different sets ov used AFR's... one a nice set ov 220's, bolted on but never run, for $500 off. Jesus... i dont even have the car yet and i almost bought them...

I'm not up on the Chevy numbers and parts yet, but i do know that Edelbrock can make some real junk (and still charge big for it). Their big block Mopar Performer/RPM heads are a joke.

 

Welcome to Small Block Chevy land! Tons and Tons of choices! Even the extra cheap Chinese crap will flow better than the base heads from 1972. Although I'd want to take them apart and check everything. But even name brand stuff. One should pull apart, clean and check everything.
I run Edelbrock heads. I'm overseas. Everything costs roughly triple. But when we go over 1000 bucks. Then it doubles again. Need to hire an importer to fill out the forms and get your stuff through customs. Importers charge a fee. Then you get taxed. Soo, a difference of 600 bucks to someone in the states. Can be a difference of 2 grand for me.
And your definitely NOT the poorest guy on the forum. If it wasn't for friends helping me out with used parts. My car wouldn't run.

 

Haha... you cannot win this race. I dont even HAVE a car yet. Though... pretty much because i cant find one. I did well with E-body Mopars (the most expensive ones) because i had 25 years ov parts in my shop/shed. I sold all that stuff with my last cars. Sadly, the money from it is gone. I have zero Chevy stuff. What i DO have though, is a pile ov entirely Chevy friends... who have been trying to convert me for decades... so you KNOW i'm gonna drag their asses for parts until they beg me to go back to Mopar. Hahaha. I aint paying going rate for ANYTHING.

 

When shopping for heads, always think about future add-ons. Look for heads that have been milled to accept larger springs should you ever go that route. These type of heads usually come with springs good for .525 lift but will also take a larger spring without mill work. Then if go with a bigger cam . . . . . . . someday . .

There is a situation where too much flow can happen. When the Intake port flows more than 200, you loose velocity, the gas mixture speed drops out resulting in a soggy throttle response. This happens with mild cam / low compression, no header engines. Sometimes you can actually make more power with a 180 head.

Slant plug or straight plug? Usually your exhaust system will determine this choice. Don't worry about which style makes power. Worry about which style plug will clear the header / plug wire.

Look for screw-in studs with guide plates. You will need new pushrods that a moly and can handle the constant rubbing on the plate. Preferably a one piece rod.
You will likely need a longer pushrod also. The rocker stud pad is often 0.100 higher than stock requiring the longer rod. This must be verified with a pushrod length checker tool. $20

If you purchase aluminum heads, make sure you purchase head gaskets that are compatible for mating aluminum to iron. Those $20 a pair will not work here. More like $40+ each!

Then, ARP headbolt kit $125 for aluminum heads. Come with built-in washer, superior clamping force. Don't forget the thread sealer.

So, as you can see, there is a lot more to it than just slapping some heads on. Do some research. Note that some price listings on Summit are per pair, some are per each.

Myself, I see no reason to purchase $1600-$2,000 heads for street use. To do what? Cruise? Car shows? Stoplight to stoplight?

 

Thank you for the info. I’m not set on aluminum heads as I would consider iron heads as well. From my short amount of looking I was thinking about 64cc and smaller ports. Any of you guys well versed in engine build think the compression ratio would be around 10 to one with 64cc chambers and my stock pistons? I plan on painting the heads orange so I don’t care if anyone knows they are aluminum. I’m never going to build a high HP car.

I thought about Vortec heads but wonder if a vortec intake and 600 Holley would fit under my stock hoodI?

I’ve had this car since the 70’s and now that I’m retired I drive it every day when it’s not raining which is about 325 days a year in SW Okla.

 

I seriously doubt you will hit 10:1 CR. Too many variables. But rumor has it that removing 76 chambers for 64 chambers is worth one point CR.
(Its been said that the original 8.5 C.R. was more wishful thinking)

There are some C.R. calculators around the net. You can punch in some numbers. It will ask for distance piston is below deck. (figure about 0.025) plus gasket thickness, type of piston, bore & stroke, chamber, etc I think Summit has the calculator.

As you know, CR is the volume of air squeezed from the bottom of the stroke to the top of the stroke. But wait! A valve is open!
What's more important is Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) concerning detonation, grade of fuel and making serious power. This DCR takes in account that the Intake Valve is still truly open during the compression stroke. But this is a complicated discussion, too much for here.

 

afr can swap some FT springs on for under 100..they use pac
Id use the 180..look up tpi421vette in the c4 tech section hes a dealer and can get you a great price on a set
No need for a 195 head on what you got

 

You seem like a good candidate for those new TFS aluminum double hump heads. They have a 64cc chamber and a 170 intake port.

 

https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-30210002

looks like the TFS come with a 60cc chamber which would bump a L48 in the 9.5 ish of compression ratio

 

I have a base 1972 engine also, but have the stock L48 cam. I used these:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5089
It was a nice "seat of the pants" improvement. Also, that price is for a PAIR.

 

i run 58cc C4 heads using a l48 cam with '69 4 eyebrow flatops (-6cc) with .028" mls gasket which is almost 11:1. no issues using 93 fuel

 

AFR has their "enforcer" heads out..they are kind of a budget head
Same thing is seems as the china heads everyone else is selling, just has better hardware. Probably closer to 200/205cc though
I think the TFS heads would be a better choice as far as quality goes.

 

yeah lots of us poor guys on here... I bought my 74 for $2,700 and it was a budget project for sure... I also agree theres a lot of in between with potential as far as parts and some combos just make more sense than others depending on situation and setup.
Putting New AFR's on an otherwise choked down dished piston cast engine seems kinda pennywise pound foolish unless your going to be upgrading the rest of the engine to get the extra potential from those heads. I went the route of craigslist myself and scored a set of dart iron eagle 180s with harland sharpe roller rockers for $300.. My entire engine was pieced together with used or bargain parts over the course of 2 years for under $1500 total.

OP, My advice is decide what your after... if its just a little bit more get up and go a set of used vortec heads may fit the bill perfectly for you and net you the same power gains as the AFR's would in your engine all else being equal. Even smaller 59cc heads might be a better option for you. If your really on a budget these would still be an upgrade from the stock heads. You cant really beat this price for a new pair of complete heads.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-SBC-3...4AAOSw6zNdYSLO
They are available in aluminum but only with the larger runners which I dont think you really want with your setup.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-fits-Ch...wAAOSwSCZcn1f9