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Before I start ordering parts could someone with the knowledge confirm if I am on track. I haven’t been successful finding a vendor that carries both a proportioning valve for my 1978 C3 as well as the appropriate bleed tool. I’m planning to order these two items. Will they fit as desired?
The "bleed tool" is bullshit. I have never ever in 30+ plus years of auto repair needed this. I have never seen it on any Snap-on, Matco, Mac, Cornwell tools trucks. Another gimmick tool to "relieve" people of their hard earned money.
The "bleed tool" is bullshit. I have never ever in 30+ plus years of auto repair needed this. I have never seen it on any Snap-on, Matco, Mac, Cornwell tools trucks. Another gimmick tool to "relieve" people of their hard earned money.
It works. Have one myself. You don't need it if you never touch the pedal during bleeding. You know how that goes.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 29, 2020 at 12:45 PM.
[QUOTE=HeadsU.P.;1602419678]H-m-m-m-m-m. Looks good to me.
Thanks. I did see your profile. Thanks for the info. I have found the switch tied off in some wiring so that’s good. I’m just hopeful that no tubing has been shortened to accommodate bubba.
After looking at your other thread, I think you have your work cut-out for you.
Fortunately, all the brake lines can be purchased pre-bent with fitting installed from some of the Vette vendors. After you get that bubba valve out of there, maybe you can figure out what lines are missing. Stay away from stainless. They're more trouble than they're worth.
Go ahead and buy 55 gallons of DOT3. Lets hope that's enough.
While we're spending the OP's money, pick up a Motive Pressure Bleeder, with the correct cap. I also have a pair off their bleeder bottles. There are lots of Forum threads on this item. Some use it with fluid. I only use it to add pressure. But it may save you some time, and yield better results.
If you pressure bleed it, (highly recommended), and keep the pressure at about 7-10 PSI, it's not enough to move the spool inside the prop valve. You'll get good flow at this pressure, without taking any chances.
It worked well for me when I pretty much rebuilt the brake system, changing almost everything except the front callipers and all the steel lines, which were fine.
I don't think pedal bleeding is recommended for this system by anybody. I tried it and got nowhere.