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I'm replacing the rubber body mounts in my 79 with aluminum solid mounts (68-72 style).
I've got some questions:
The rubber mounts fit on both sides of the frame, "clip" into the body and have steel bushings which aligned everything, but the aluminum mounts are just a single aluminum spacer sitting on top of the frame under the body. 2 of the aluminum spacers have a very slight raised center that (loosely) fits in the fame holes of either 1 or 4 location (not sure whether to use on 1 or 4), but the other 6 are smooth. Shouldn't the aluminum spacers have something to index them in the frame and on the body?
I know that there is a locating hole in the doorsill that is used to align with a hole in the frame, but is there a "tool" that is actually designed to locate with (I'm imagining a machined rod that would accurately locate)? I've read that people just use a screw driver or wrench extension and eyeball it.
I have the body sitting on the frame with the aluminum mounts. Passenger's side 1, 2 and 3 are sitting on the aluminum spacers, with #4 sitting ~1" off the spacer. Driver's side 1 and 2 are on the aluminum spacers, but I had to put a washer under #3 to get the door to close correctly. As a result, #4 on the driver's side is sitting ~1/4" to 3/8" higher than the passenger's side. Ideas?
Last edited by ChrisLSx; Oct 29, 2020 at 04:57 PM.
As a general rule, I hate rubber (mounts and bushings) in performance applications. It's better to rigidly tie the body to the frame as then the metal structure of the body can also provide torsional strength.
Both side 2 and 3,s should be supporting the sill panel firmly before you torque them down .At the same time your door gaps should be as you want them, if they are good as is then just add shims (washers) to fill the gaps , so support is given to the rear end . I had to force extra shims on my no.4,s to get the doors right . My 69 body is now on a "new" 78 frame with the alloy spacers . I just used a podgy bar to get the holes lined up , it is surprising just how easy it is to slide the body around by levering through those holes , a big flat head screw driver does it easy ! then just look down through all 3 holes until you only see one (all lined up ) get both sides done and thats it . But make sure you have the bolts started or you can move the shims around as well.
Both side 2 and 3,s should be supporting the sill panel firmly before you torque them down .At the same time your door gaps should be as you want them, if they are good as is then just add shims (washers) to fill the gaps , so support is given to the rear end . I had to force extra shims on my no.4,s to get the doors right . My 69 body is now on a "new" 78 frame with the alloy spacers . I just used a podgy bar to get the holes lined up , it is surprising just how easy it is to slide the body around by levering through those holes , a big flat head screw driver does it easy ! then just look down through all 3 holes until you only see one (all lined up ) get both sides done and thats it . But make sure you have the bolts started or you can move the shims around as well.
That's where I am now. Last night after I got home from work, I set both sides of #2 and #3 with aluminum spacers and 3 shims each. I then installed both #1s which (in addition to the aluminum spacer) ended up with 1 shim on the passenger's side and no shims on the driver's side. The driver's side #4 is still about 1/8" to 3/16" higher but that seems to be within reason. The rear gap of the driver's side door is not quite right, but I think that's due to the door being out of alignment as I tried adding extra shims but the gap didn't change much.
I was looking through my AIM manual and it says to use a 0.560" (+/- 0.002") rod to align the body. 0.562" is 9/16, so I'm going to dig around and see if I can find some 9/16" solid round bar to make alignment dowels.
Last edited by ChrisLSx; Oct 30, 2020 at 04:14 PM.