1973 was the 2nd year for Gm lower compression engines and with that in mind we are looking for recommendations for matched aftermarket components like intake, camshaft, heads, headers, distributor, torc converter . we are not looking to build a race car . we need to run todays pump gas. just need to tip our fun meter and build a fun to drive machine like the old days 350 300hp +
1973 stingray 5.7 auto trans.

 

I have a 73, it had a solid bottom end so I put a vortec top end kit with a 670 Holley, headers and a Lunati barebones cam. I have a 4 speed so no help on the torque converter. Not sure of the output but it is solid runner and a blast to drive.

I'm sure others can offer more help, but this ended up being a good combo that didn’t cost the farm.

 

TC - leave alone unless broke
Dist - if you want to move away from points then a good HEI is fine (not a $50 fleabay one), but you'll have to get one with tach drive
Intake depends upon your choice of carbs. Lars would want you to keep your QJet. Maybe an Edelbrock dual plane or you might find a nice HP Chevy intake on Craigslist cheap
The Vortec top end mentioned is a good choice
Heads - don't know, I like AFR but they are pricey. You could get some cheap Chinese ones off fleabay, but throw away everything that comes with them & drop in quality valves, springs & rockers.
At this level headers are headers, get what your want. More expensive usually means better steel & coatings, thus longer life. Shorties or 3" ram horns are good too and work with stock exhaust.
Cam is the last thing, choose a grinder & call them and tell them everything you are going to do and ask for their suggestions

 

what is your budget?

 

Right now we have a blank check . planning to bore 30 over to true the cyl walls , resize rods with quality rod bolts , forged pistons about 8.5 to 1 or so to be able to run premium pump gas. aftermarket heads, intake, camshaft headers and tuned exhaust to match, 3000rpm stall converter . q jet carb.

 

If you go with aluminum heads you can go 9.5 to 10 on the compression ratio. If you’re going to do all that check into one of the fuel injection systems. Much better drivability than a carb

 

^^^^ A head with a modern shaped combustion chamber low compression isnt necessary anymore to run pump gas,. Get that to a solid 10:1 at least.
Theres a myth out there that alum heads lower your CR one point, not true.
Chinese junk heads assembled are around 1000 some maybe a bit less. For a few hundred more you can get AFR its crazy not too.
Many choose via price/flow# and ignore quality and longevity. They sure dont come with good parts or a lifetime warranty

 

Edelbrock makes a series of top end kits, all matched parts. Just pick the approximate hp you want. For example, google edelbrock 2089. 410 hp top end.

 

If you lack the knowledge and/or experience to select these components yourself, a matched kit from Edelbrock might be the best way to go. A couple of things you need to consider: First the 2089 kit might have more camshaft than you want. This kit really needs a manual transmission or a higher stall torque convertor. If you are not prepared to change the torque convertor, consider something like their kit #2038. Second, make sure your compression ratio is matched to the camshaft you select. Read up on dynamic compression ratio, or at least follow Edelbrock's recommendations. Third, make sure the intake manifold you select will fit under the hood.

 

Figure on 10:1 CR to start with. So figure out what combustion chamber and piston combo get you that. Something like 64cc and 7cc flat top pistons. Keep the quench in the .035" to .040" region. So that means if you get the block zero decked to buy a .040 ish head gasket. Or if stock deck (.025" in the hole) then use the .015" felpro shim gasket.
Use a cam of 280 ish duration on the intake with a 110* LSA ( I personally like 108, but 110* gives lots of options on off the shelf cams) and while you are at it go roller cam with full roller lifters. Roller cam is much better than flat tappet (IMO) and you will not have to stress about the zinc in the oil.
Long tube headers, not shorties , not block huggers. 1 3/4" primaries.
2 1/2 inch or better exhaust system.

use this DCR calculator to play with the numbers for your cam.


https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/calculator/

You can push the DCR up to 8.5:1 maximum, with 91 octane you may want to stay below that, 8.2 is comfortable. Too short of a cam and you'll limit your RPM potential and thereby HP . Too high of a duration and the bottom end torque gets pretty soggy.
With your planned 3000 stall torque converter you could go a little longer on the duration or a little narrower on the LSA, say my preferred 108?
I run a 3500 stall converter with a 270/270 ( high altitude consideration) on a 108 LSA cam with .549 lift at the valve. Tricky to get the idle down but the power delivery is more explosive compared to a wider LSA.

I use the AFR 180 heads and have found them to be excellent in flow and quality. Quality cost, but you pay once. Cheap pays again and maybe again.
At sea level you could go with an AFR 195 head and potentially make more HP up top. Depends on where you want the performance. High velocity from the 180's will give better low and mid range with a decent top. 195 is going to give a good mid range with more top RPM potential, given the cam is matched reasonably well.
I use the 180's due to lack of air density at my altitude to keep the air velocity up for better cylinder filling at all RPMs.

I would also convert to HEI, although points will work too.

Intake I would use an edelbrock air gap or RPM air gap. RPM if you want to delay the power down low in exchange for more up top.

These combos I have suggested will all make 400 HP or better.

I currently make about 440 HP .
edelbrock performer intake ported out to match the heads and increase volume
180 AFR heads angle milled to 55.5cc .038" quench
11.3 cc dish pistons hypers not forged
10.6:1 CR with a DCR of 8.0 @ 4000 ft
Hooker headers with side pipes with 1 7/8" primaries (only size they come in)