Thoughts on next LS Conversion
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 877
Likes: 80
From: Frederick MD
Thoughts on next LS Conversion
Good Morning and Happy Thanksgiving Eve To All,
I am wrapping up the interior work on my '73 LS3/TR6060 conversion and it is so much fun to drive I am contemplating an LS conversion on my somewhat tired '75 auto and thinking about what I would do different, here are my plans / thoughts. (and you may have seen previous musings of this nature in other posts and you may see more in the future)
Scott
I am wrapping up the interior work on my '73 LS3/TR6060 conversion and it is so much fun to drive I am contemplating an LS conversion on my somewhat tired '75 auto and thinking about what I would do different, here are my plans / thoughts. (and you may have seen previous musings of this nature in other posts and you may see more in the future)
- Buy a good used Corvette LS3.
- I used a Camaro LS3 on the last one and had to swap out the accessories.
- Put in the most aggressive cam-motion cam that does not required new springs/lifters.
- I put in a more aggressive cam-motion (Titan 1) in the '73 and it is nice, but looking for something milder that the wife and kids will drive more often.
- Get the whole kit from Silver Sport for the A41 4 speed auto.
- Trying to get the crossmember/shifter to work with the TR6060 was a pain, would be nice to get all the parts out of the box.
- When I got the quote from Silver Sport I balked at the price initially, but when I considered it includes the crossmember/driveshaft/controller/etc. it seems like a pretty good deal.
- Get the exhaust kit from Corvette Central: https://www.corvettecentral.com/c3-6...version-323122
- Perhaps see if I can swap out the magnaflows for some quieter stock mufflers.
- Get a fuel tank setup for FI rather than plumbing it all myself, although the current setup seems to run fine.
- Use the same 98-02 fbody radiator setup I put in the 73, it seems to cool everything nicely and was cheap and easy to put together.
Scott
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Well your the one with LS experience here so you should be the one to explain why you need an LS3 and TR6060. Seems to me I read a lot of 5.3L/Vortec 5300 conversions with a 4L60E from a truck as a budget swap with good power.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 877
Likes: 80
From: Frederick MD
Thanks for the vote of confidence! It seems like a vette has to have at least 5.7L however.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
5.3 liters is 327 c.i. and the 327 is what made the corvette a high performance car in the 60's. The aluminum head 5.3L LS motors need only a cam change to hit the 400hp mark. Better fuel mileage than 350/5.7L too.
But that LS3 motor will woop a 5.3L for sure. Hey it's what you want that counts - if you can afford it and still feed the family.
But that LS3 motor will woop a 5.3L for sure. Hey it's what you want that counts - if you can afford it and still feed the family.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 697
Just a thought here in regards to the 5.3. You can buy a high mileage 5.3 and rebuild it or a low mileage 5.3 and pretty much bolt it in and go. If understand iron block 5.3's can be bored out to the 5.7 dimensions. So you could easily build a 5.7 iron block.
You need to be sure of the 5.3 in regards to year. 24 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm to control the engine and tans. 58 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm for the engine and one ecm for the trans. Not a big deal just FYI.
If you are going to put a cam in the engine I would strongly suggest aftermarket springs and push rods. So easy to do when the engine is on the engine stand.
Then since I like spending other peoples money I would buy a stall converter around 2800-3000 rpm. A good billet one from Circle or Yank will drive like a stocker until you really put your foot down.
You need to be sure of the 5.3 in regards to year. 24 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm to control the engine and tans. 58 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm for the engine and one ecm for the trans. Not a big deal just FYI.
If you are going to put a cam in the engine I would strongly suggest aftermarket springs and push rods. So easy to do when the engine is on the engine stand.
Then since I like spending other peoples money I would buy a stall converter around 2800-3000 rpm. A good billet one from Circle or Yank will drive like a stocker until you really put your foot down.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 877
Likes: 80
From: Frederick MD
From what I gather the batwing works with regards to clearing the steering and frame, but can interfere with the exhaust. I used the f-body oil pan but since I had the engine a bit further forward because of the transmission it interfered with the steering linkage and I had to swap it out with the Holly pan which give plenty of clearance.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 877
Likes: 80
From: Frederick MD
Just a thought here in regards to the 5.3. You can buy a high mileage 5.3 and rebuild it or a low mileage 5.3 and pretty much bolt it in and go. If understand iron block 5.3's can be bored out to the 5.7 dimensions. So you could easily build a 5.7 iron block.
You need to be sure of the 5.3 in regards to year. 24 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm to control the engine and tans. 58 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm for the engine and one ecm for the trans. Not a big deal just FYI.
If you are going to put a cam in the engine I would strongly suggest aftermarket springs and push rods. So easy to do when the engine is on the engine stand.
Then since I like spending other peoples money I would buy a stall converter around 2800-3000 rpm. A good billet one from Circle or Yank will drive like a stocker until you really put your foot down.
You need to be sure of the 5.3 in regards to year. 24 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm to control the engine and tans. 58 tooth reluctor 5.3 use one ecm for the engine and one ecm for the trans. Not a big deal just FYI.
If you are going to put a cam in the engine I would strongly suggest aftermarket springs and push rods. So easy to do when the engine is on the engine stand.
Then since I like spending other peoples money I would buy a stall converter around 2800-3000 rpm. A good billet one from Circle or Yank will drive like a stocker until you really put your foot down.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,310
Likes: 697
I'm not saying you can't find a low mileage LS1/LS6 but keep in mind GM haven't built a new LS1/LS6 for over 10 years. The last LS6 was in the 2004 C5. Maybe a rebuilt from some one like Blueprint? The good thing about buying a used 4th gen LS1 Camaro engine it should have all the accessories and maybe even a 4L60E. The 2001-2002 Camaros LS1's have the better LS6 intakes.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,312
Likes: 156
From: Richmond Texas
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Almost 327...I have one they are too light on torque...stroke not bad but the bore is tiny....and a 205cc head that dont flow much. Early rods bolts arent the best
Great fora mild cheap driver but wouldnt be my choice..too much work to convert when you can drop something in wayyy better these days
Mine is a whopping 290hp stock.
You know its always better to start with the bigger engine it doesnt work as hard and the late model ones really respond to small changes in cam timing .
Those LS3s are great mills.
Great fora mild cheap driver but wouldnt be my choice..too much work to convert when you can drop something in wayyy better these days
Mine is a whopping 290hp stock.
You know its always better to start with the bigger engine it doesnt work as hard and the late model ones really respond to small changes in cam timing .
Those LS3s are great mills.
Last edited by cv67; Nov 30, 2020 at 08:57 AM.