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The spark plug in the #1 cylinder gets fouled rather quickly but my other seven stay pretty clean. Should I just repalce the rings in that one or should I bite the bullet and do all eight? Wet -dry compression was OK on the other seven, but lousy on the one in question. I'm hoping you guys will say its OK to be lazy and do the one till the others need work also. I have about 4000 miles on this engine now. Any suggestions?
Are you sure it is the rings. Maybe a valve guide on #1. However, if you have to tear it down the labor and cost from doing 1 slug vs all of them is not that different.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Re: Shall I do one or all eight? (dlw)
As otherwise posted, the guides may very well be the problem. But if you're gonna do the bottom end, don't just do one cylinder. No Way!! <Unless you are gonna put a for sale sign on it?>>
I would replace the rings on that piston. Assuming this engine only has 4000 miles the internal parts are new, its a 70-30 chance replacing the rings on that piston will sovle the problem. However, replacing all eight is a cheap insurance policy. As for what the other member said about worn valve guides do an vacuum test on this engine to help confirm the valve problem.
Man.... 4000 miles and already a semi-rebuild? I haven't followed what you did with this engine except for your notes of .030 overbored cylinders & Torquer cylinder heads. Why do you think it is the rings and not something else like a bent valve? You are not going to get any compression that way either. My thoughts would be if you pull the head to gasoline leak test it first. Simply said... fill the exhaust & intake ports with gasoline while it is on it's side standing up. You'll know if a valve is bent very quickly. If that is not the problem then go into that cylinder to see if the oil rings have given up... any scarring to the cylinder wall that might indicate a bent rod... work your way down the list until you are satisfied you have found the problem before you go to changing all the rings.
I was afraid you guys would say that. The compression check looked OK for all the cylinders except #1. Wet was way higher than dry. The others were pretty close. Car still runs good except for having to clean that plug every time I go out!
4000 miles since overhaul ... assume that included servicing heads also ... if so, you shouldn't be having any valve seal/guide issues. After considering how new the motor is, I'd hazard a guess that a ring may've been broken/cracked as the freshened motor was assembled.
PS ... or possibly a ring or two on # 1 was installed upside down upon assembly ... that'll cause oil pumping too.
Heads were brand new when the rebuild was done. other than the block, whch was bored 30 over, the only thing original was the intake, which I had planned to change, but like a lot of things I do, it goes on my "to-do" list.
I first noticed this problem when on a return trip from Carlisle. It started missing and I thought it may be a burned plug wire. When the wires looked good I started pulling plugs and #1 was fouled shut. # 2 was a little dirty and the rest was OK
Suggest you install a hotter spark plug in #1 until you can tear engine apart and see what you're dealing with. Based upon facts above, I'd guess it's a bad ring or two.
Try a hotter plug as was suggested, you might also want to try one of those anti-fouling plug inserts. This is just a band-aid and not a fix by any means.
A fairly quick check would be to pull the springs on the suspect cylinder valves and check that the stem seal is properly installed and in one piece.
Stranger things have happened.
Have you replaced that plug? How about one a few steps hotter to try and keep it clean. What about changing a plug wire? I had the same problem on a rebuilt Ford 302 but even reringing didn't solve the problem.
Hotter plugs was a suggestion of a friend of mine, but I have not tried that yet. I'm still perplexed that its only one cylinder (so far). And since i'm kind of an old fart, I never really did open it up. Maybe I should. It might blow the cobbs out. (or break it for good) :D
The real test will come when you tear into it. When you pull the piston for #1, take time to really look at it. Mesause the piston to cylinder wall clearance. Measure the ring gaps. Measure the actual bore itself and look at the finish on the walls. This will give you a good indication of the overall condition of the engine. The last thing you want is to fix #1 and then 2k miles later have another or so poop out. Take your time.