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I have the hood latch adjusted on my early production 1968 convert so it stays shut and opens, but not the way it should. If I adjust the latch using the Wilcox tool, the passenger side latch pops open if the car goes over a bump and jostles the car. In order to keep it closed, I have it adjusted with sideways tension on it. This means when I pull the release cable, only the driver side latch releases. I have to go to the passenger side and pull the hood sideways to release the passenger side. I notice there are two part numbers for the male part of the latch...early 1968 and late 1968-1969. Does anyone know if there is a difference in the diameter of the two types of the male part of the latch? The PO changed the hood on the car, so I do not know what version of latch it has. It seems that a larger diameter male part of the latch might keep the hood closed so I don't need to finesse the adjustment.
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I had the exact same issue and was told by my buddies Dad, who drove a brand new 68 off the lot, that that happened as he crossed the tracks on the way home. He turned around and went back t the dealer and they could not get it to stop. ANother 68 only uniqueness. I also tried a bunch of different combonations and use the Willcox tool as well. The only thing I found, by accident, that keeps it shut is pressure on the under side of the hood pushing up . I found this out as I use spacer on my hood and have a aftermarket L88 hood with the original latches on it. THe spacers I had to use on my ddrop base air cleaner to clear the throttle on the Sniper EFI pushed up on the cold air intake just enough that I have to push down on the passenger side a bit more than I used to. It doesnt deform the hood or anything but I did notice it. Since then my hood hasnt popped on the normal potholes or railroad crossings. Otherwise I dont know how to get it to stop. I tried moving the stud to the side but it got stuck. I got a little worried but popping the hood with my hand got it to release like I had hit a pothole. The hood just has those lttle bumpers to provide a positive stop and the latch stud has a spring but it doesnt seem to prived enough resistance to that latch from openning. I also think it has something to do with not having those cross braces in the back so our cars flex alot more than the 69 and up cars. You should see it when I put it on the lift. THe door gaps open up a ridiculous amount
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Dec 20, 2020 at 02:31 PM.
I have the hood latch adjusted on my early production 1968 convert so it stays shut and opens, but not the way it should. If I adjust the latch using the Wilcox tool, the passenger side latch pops open if the car goes over a bump and jostles the car. In order to keep it closed, I have it adjusted with sideways tension on it. This means when I pull the release cable, only the driver side latch releases. I have to go to the passenger side and pull the hood sideways to release the passenger side. I notice there are two part numbers for the male part of the latch...early 1968 and late 1968-1969. Does anyone know if there is a difference in the diameter of the two types of the male part of the latch? The PO changed the hood on the car, so I do not know what version of latch it has. It seems that a larger diameter male part of the latch might keep the hood closed so I don't need to finesse the adjustment.
There were several version of the male and female hood latches used in 68-69.
There were two versions of the 68 female hood latch. Both were the same except for how the latch cross cable connected to them. All 68's to my knowledge used the same tulip (curved sided profile) male pin.
In late 69 the female latches were replaced by a second design. The passenger side latch has a different bolt mounting pattern to the hood so it has to be used with a matching pattern hood. This style latch used a cone shaped male pin. It was a bigger diameter than the tulip pin.
The tulip shape male pin will work with the later style latch but will be very loose in the hole. I have read that you shouldn't use the late 69+ cone shaped pin with the earlier latches as you may have a hard time getting the hood open. Since your hood has been replaced you may have the second design female latch and the early style pin.
On my 68 my hood will occasionally pop open, but only on the most extreme diagonal bumps. I have a later convertible with the under dash braces.
JC68- I may buy the later style male pin and see if that helps. I was reluctant to just buy one without some potential reason. Ecklers, where I get much of my stuff, has expensive shipping rates. The pin, which sells for $16.99, will probably cost $40 with shipping. I already have a part for the manual roll-up windows ordered where shipping is more than the cost of the item Guess I should have bought a Toyota Camry. (Note that I am griping about spending 40 bucks on a car part, when I am also considering spending $25K on a horse!) Go figure how logic has anything to do with a man's hobbies.