Getting brake calipers apart
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
Getting brake calipers apart
Need to crack open front caliper as it's leaking. History on it is:
Anyway, beyond what I've done, any other options short of hauling the caliper to a shop which will have better tools?
- Original (80) started leaking probably around 1990
- Replaced by dealer, SS sleeved, from Corvette America - lifetime warranty on the sleeve
- For next 15 years not much use on the car, in fact, several years with zero
- About 5 years ago as I was looking to hit the road, it was leaking along with another CA replacement
- CA honored the warranty even without knowing if it was the sleeve or just seals
- Now one is leaking and I assume it's a seal (lip) but won't know until I open it
- Problem - cannot crack it open
Anyway, beyond what I've done, any other options short of hauling the caliper to a shop which will have better tools?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,656
Likes: 2,469
From: Indiana
Hmmm
can you put in vise and breaker bar on nut? It should come out..heat will loosen threadlocker..
I struggle with loosening on car so use vise..don’t need to clamp crazy tight but stable enough to use longer breaker bar..thats like 130 ft pounds holding those
i quit l seals..o ring only..i learned
can you put in vise and breaker bar on nut? It should come out..heat will loosen threadlocker..
I struggle with loosening on car so use vise..don’t need to clamp crazy tight but stable enough to use longer breaker bar..thats like 130 ft pounds holding those
i quit l seals..o ring only..i learned
Last edited by interpon; Dec 22, 2020 at 01:29 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,541
Likes: 1,975
From: Temple Terrace Florida
I would put them back on the car and use one mounting bolt at a time. You just need to hold the caliper in place. Also, get a thin walled six point deep socket and a breaker bar or an impact wrench. Jerry
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
Thanks all, I'll give all those options a shot. I also agree about the o-ring vs lip seals. I don't want to start a debate though. From what I've read, it seems the real advantage for the o-rings is for cars which sit a lot, aka mine. The original failures on all 4 of my calipers were due to corrosion of the cast iron bore on the original calipers. And since the replacements with SS sleeves were still lip seal types, when I did get them replaces under warranty obviously I ended up with lip seals again. If I ever blast these apart, o-rings will go in.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 11,949
Likes: 4,507
From: Virginia
If the calipers are like most, there will be two jagged holes exposing the threads that the caliper bolts screw into. Put some penetrating oil there (I use Kano Kroil, I've found PB Blaster doesn't do much except smell terrible).
If you have a vise bolted to a table, that should be enough to hold the calipers. You could also bolt the caliper to that workbench table leg with lag bolts.
If you have a vise bolted to a table, that should be enough to hold the calipers. You could also bolt the caliper to that workbench table leg with lag bolts.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 95
Likes: 28
From: Southern MD
The front caliper bolts are torque to 130 ft-lbs. It is going to take some more muscle than you have been applying. You'll be needing a way to hold the caliper for applying 130 when you put it back together. I can tell you from first hand experience, you don't want to have a caliper separate when you are driving. It make for some very exciting moments.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
Thanks for the continuing advice. I didn't look up the torque spec, but knowing it's 130 ft-lb now that puts it into perspective. I recall trying to get to 100 ft-lb on some other items, I think the castle nuts on the rear spindles. It was all I could do to obtain that without putting a pipe on the torque wrench. I'll keep at it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,656
Likes: 2,469
From: Indiana
Thanks for the continuing advice. I didn't look up the torque spec, but knowing it's 130 ft-lb now that puts it into perspective. I recall trying to get to 100 ft-lb on some other items, I think the castle nuts on the rear spindles. It was all I could do to obtain that without putting a pipe on the torque wrench. I'll keep at it.
rears are less torque then front
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
They are apart. Basically a combination of recommendations above. I didn't have a big enough vise to put it in, so I mounted them back onto their bracket on the car. Had to leave them a little loose to get the socket on. I didn't have a good long half inch breaker bar. So I used sparkplug sockets. Not optimal as they are thin walled, thought that helped get them on where it was tight between the bolt head and the mounting bracket. From there, I held the wrench and socket in place with one hand and gave the wrench some good whacks with a 3 lb hammer. Being in the wheel well this limited the stroke, which was just as well as hitting it too hard likely would have twisted the socket on the bolt head and risked rounding it. Both broke free after about a minute of persuasion. I know, not optimal, but it worked, the bolt heads are in good shape. And it cost me only one sparkplug socket which cracked and which Craftsman will replace.
As for how I'll torqued them back on, this won't work as when mounted on the bracket I won't be able to get a torque wrench on them. But at work there is a shop with a decent vise, so I'll see how that works.
Thanks all for the advice.
As for how I'll torqued them back on, this won't work as when mounted on the bracket I won't be able to get a torque wrench on them. But at work there is a shop with a decent vise, so I'll see how that works.
Thanks all for the advice.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 7,656
Likes: 2,469
From: Indiana
They are apart. Basically a combination of recommendations above. I didn't have a big enough vise to put it in, so I mounted them back onto their bracket on the car. Had to leave them a little loose to get the socket on. I didn't have a good long half inch breaker bar. So I used sparkplug sockets. Not optimal as they are thin walled, thought that helped get them on where it was tight between the bolt head and the mounting bracket. From there, I held the wrench and socket in place with one hand and gave the wrench some good whacks with a 3 lb hammer. Being in the wheel well this limited the stroke, which was just as well as hitting it too hard likely would have twisted the socket on the bolt head and risked rounding it. Both broke free after about a minute of persuasion. I know, not optimal, but it worked, the bolt heads are in good shape. And it cost me only one sparkplug socket which cracked and which Craftsman will replace.
As for how I'll torqued them back on, this won't work as when mounted on the bracket I won't be able to get a torque wrench on them. But at work there is a shop with a decent vise, so I'll see how that works.
Thanks all for the advice.
As for how I'll torqued them back on, this won't work as when mounted on the bracket I won't be able to get a torque wrench on them. But at work there is a shop with a decent vise, so I'll see how that works.
Thanks all for the advice.
edit..omg. 2016 thru zoro i got a 5.5 inch combination vise shipped with free hammer for 319 after 20 p% code..discontinued..these are 1500.00 bucks now!
Last edited by interpon; Dec 24, 2020 at 10:57 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 226
From: PA
Fantastic deal. It's amazing how much a few pounds of good forged and machined steel goes for when at the same time you can a decent set of cnc machined aluminum heads for $1000 to $1500. I guess you should have invested in Wilton vises at the time. Selling now at $1,500, that's a 370% return on investment in about 4 years.