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My 1978 vette seems to still have a headlight issue. At first, the dash lights would not come on even though i would turn the headlight ****. Also, my high beams would not come on but i attributed that to the fact that the high/low beam lever on the column would not "click" when i pulled it back. I had someone order the new (box?) or component under the dash behind the headlight **** and replace it. My mechanic actually said he fixed the high/low beam lever on the column prior to this piece coming in. it will now click and the lights will switch to high and low. the problem is that they will stay of for about two seconds and then go out. Sometimes they will flicker a few times and then go out and other times they just go out. I can turn them off, and about thirty seconds later turn them back on and the same thing happens. I don't know if there is a loose connection or something is overheating? Any ideas?
a couple ideas. first, theres a circut breaker inside that box behind the **** on the dash. (that box is called the headlight switch). your high beams pull more than double the current than the low beams. so if that circut breaker has gotten old and weak, or is a cheap replacement. the breaker will keep popping. ......second, if your headlights have been upgraded to more modern lights. And your not running relays, it will continue to pop the breaker. I suggest you check out Mad Electrical's web site. lots of wiring and charging system info on there web site. including of course how to wire in relays.
4-vettes. i am not sure how to respond directly to you. thank you. If i turn my headlights on and they are on low beam, this issue is still there.My mechanic ordered a Used headlight switch on line. Do you think it could be that?
My friend with a 1978 had the same thing happened with his ow and high beam head light. He purchased a new switch that is on the steering column and that fixed the problem. Used electrical parts are sometimes prone to failure, because of age and mileage/usage
amounts.
truthfully, not hard to test the system. but OP doesn't seem like the hands on kind of guy. and his mechanic is ordering parts without testing first. He wouldn't last long in this shop.
a couple ideas. first, theres a circut breaker inside that box behind the **** on the dash. (that box is called the headlight switch). your high beams pull more than double the current than the low beams. so if that circut breaker has gotten old and weak, or is a cheap replacement. the breaker will keep popping. ......second, if your headlights have been upgraded to more modern lights. And your not running relays, it will continue to pop the breaker. I suggest you check out Mad Electrical's web site. lots of wiring and charging system info on there web site. including of course how to wire in relays.
Unless the OP just bought offroad halogens or higher power HID lights which are all ready fading from the market, The original wiring would normally benefit from the newer tech not tax it further.
Most of the replacement headlight tech and aftermarket headlights I seen, draw less current and require less amps to operate at a higher light capacity than the original bulbs. The more common LED headlight replacement headlights I put in both my older vehicles including my 74 are considerably more efficient on power versus the factory bulbs while being brighter. I found the 55w HIDs I had in my old truck only drew this current to fire the lamps and less after that to operate.
Last edited by augiedoggy; Jan 5, 2021 at 08:11 AM.