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I've never seen or heard of a mc being shipped full of fluid. That doesn't mean they don't exist.
Per the quality of the master cylinder, and I've been through quite a few of them, I'd suggest a new vs a rebuilt. I believe you have a much better chance of getting a good one new.
I've heard of a pre bled clutch master cylinder but not brakes. My first choice would be to take the piston out of my original master and inspect the bore, if you are not sure what to look for take it to a competent person to inspect, if the bore is okay or cleans up with a hone (or a stainless steel sleeve) then a seal kit is all that's needed. Then comes the bench bleed to eliminate as much air as possible before refitting. Plenty of "how to" instructions online. I am always dubious of rebuilt components unless the seller offers some sort of warranty or has a solid reputation.
Last edited by Haggisbash; Jan 26, 2021 at 01:13 PM.
Bleeding the master isn't hard, if I can do it right on the first try, well, easy. The pics above look good, there are even inexpensive kits made just for this.
One other question: When rebuilding a M/C is the spring the first part to go back into the bore?
I don't know. And I will tell you why. I am not a believer in rebuilding the Masters. You can rebuild a caliper and if it fails you lost only one brake. If a novice rebuilds the MC and it fails, you could kill somebody! Or cause tens of thousands in damage just to save some money.
This job is best left to professionals that rebuild MCs on a daily basis.
This is something to think about next time you're cruising at 50 and a kid runs out in front of you. A brake pedal to the floor at speed, soils many Fruit of the Looms.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jan 28, 2021 at 09:22 AM.
I just purchased one of their correct M/C and it is perfect! New cap, new retaining straps and of course perfectly rebuilt, and correct, Delco MC. Totally impressed by SSBC and would recommend their product. I even used their date-coding option.
One other question: When rebuilding a M/C is the spring the first part to go back into the bore?
Keep track of what comes out first when you take yours apart. Or, I'm sure, that there are diagrams on the web.
If it has a real good bore, no pitting, I wouldn't hesitate to rebuild it. Easy project. Keep in mind, that there may be different parts kits from different venders. For my '69, of the 2 kits offered, 1 only has about 1/2 of the parts of the other.
I have bought rebuilt MC's that have failed rather quickly, and upon examination, the bores were terribly pitted. Rebuilds are a crap shoot.
I don't know. And I will tell you why. I am not a believer in rebuilding the Masters. You can rebuild a caliper and if it fails you lost only one brake. If a novice rebuilds the MC and it fails, you could kill somebody! Or cause tens of thousands in damage just to save some money.
This job is best left to professionals that rebuild MCs on a daily basis.
This is something to think about next time you're cruising at 50 and a kid runs out in front of you. A brake pedal to the floor at speed, soils many Fruit of the Looms.
In reality, the master isn't any more likely to have a sudden catastrophic failure any more than the calipers. About the only thing that can go wrong in either case is a leak from a seal causing a softening pedal over time (not all at once) or a poorly bled system at the outset. There's not a lot of complexity in the master cylinder: a pair of pistons, springs, seals, and a retaining clip in a single bore.
Slight correction: if you lose braking in one caliper, you've also lost it on the other side too. Once the ability to hold pressure is lost in any one component, the entire front or rear subsystem is rendered ineffective.
Last edited by barkingrats; Jan 28, 2021 at 10:00 PM.
If you rebuild a caliper and the piston seals fail, you still will have decent (leaking) brakes, but will get you home.
If you rebuild a master and the piston seals fail, you will loose ALL FOUR caliper braking. Because the calipers will not receive any brake line pressure.
You will be on the side of the road waiting for a flatbed.
Loosing all your brakes is scary ****. Just an awful feeling!
Well thanks but no one answered my question. The reason I ask is because when I disassembled my M/C I had to pull the piston out with long nose plyers. I think the rear spring was installed after the piston. back ackwards.
Well thanks but no one answered my question. The reason I ask is because when I disassembled my M/C I had to pull the piston out with long nose plyers. I think the rear spring was installed after the piston. back ackwards.
Can you post a photo of what you have? The masters that I've rebuilt all had 2 springs and 2 pistons.
Well thanks but no one answered my question. The reason I ask is because when I disassembled my M/C I had to pull the piston out with long nose plyers.
This is not unusual. Once the piston moves past where the spring is pushing against it, the seals pushing against the bore make it resistant to falling out.
Thank you 67:72 the pic is worth a 1000 words. Needed the order in which the parts went into bore. I'm pretty sure mine was assembled wrong from factory. Spring was not 1st part installed in bore.