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I am reluctant to call safelite for a 1971 windshield replacement.
I would like to put in a date code correct one and order it myself. I wonder if a large company like that would even know how to install an old car windshield?
I apologize if the question has been asked before.
I am reluctant to call safelite for a 1971 windshield replacement.
I would like to put in a date code correct one and order it myself. I wonder if a large company like that would even know how to install an old car windshield?
I apologize if the question has been asked before.
Jokes on you - you can't actually 'call' Safelite anymore. Their phones only offer you automated responses and a coupon as an apology for them no longer taking phone calls.
I need a windshield replaced and I'm now doing it myself because there's no way I'm patronizing a company who no longer has working phones.
Last edited by SilverC8; Feb 18, 2021 at 10:01 PM.
Ordered my windshield, less than$300 delivered. The local auto glass guy quoted $150 for removal and installation. Well worth it and he has done c3’s previously.
the big chains will not do glass on a car that old. small places will. the guy assured me it would be at the correct height. then he squirted his standard bead of goop and dropped glass in. easy 1/4 inch too low. that video is about the best DIY. use it. do it yourself. mine came out real easy. the butyl glue-sealer-ribbon-whatever stops sticking after a few decades. at the very least, pull it yourself and get the pinchweld cleaned up or repaired.
Last edited by derekderek; Feb 19, 2021 at 06:22 AM.
Great thread and info. I am coming up to that part of my project and wasn’t sure if I would DIY. I have done almost 99% of the car myself so why not give it a try. Thanks for the info and the video.
A few yrs back, I cracked my windshield. Stopped at my local Safelite (12 miles away) for an estimate. They were booked for several days, so they sent a truck & tech guy from 107 miles away. Came right to my garage the next day. Young guy, very intimidated by a classic car. He said they would not honor any warranty or liability work with surface rust on the A-Pillar. And back home he went leaving me instructions to wire brush & POR15 the A Pillars.
Next day, local guy installs new unit, good to go. Definitely have to have specialty tools to spot that awkward glass in place for a good seal. Worst part I think, was not cracking all the 40+ yr old interior trim at the screw holes.
I believe the job came to $230 and my Vette was in the safety of my own garage.
Never a job I would do myself. Good Luck.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Feb 19, 2021 at 09:04 AM.
Yes I replaced mine. Not a big deal. An extra pair of hands would have been nice. Watch a you tube video, have all materials on hand and your plan mapped out before you start.
My wife and I have replaced 3 windshields on 68's and 72. After a lot of searches I decided to use all 3/8" 3M ribbon, no glue, worked great. Auto City Glass is my supplier now.
I mostly followed this writeup from an another forum member here. I printed it out, scanned into a pdf file and can email to you. Sent you a PM. Can not get it to upload here, the writeup is of a blue 69 and ends with "aint she purty"
nice thing about this glass is the side trim screws on. if you stuck a foam strip with no adhesive under the glass the trim would keep the glass in. no, i am not recommending you do that...
My wife and I have replaced 3 windshields on 68's and 72. After a lot of searches I decided to use all 3/8" 3M ribbon, no glue, worked great. Auto City Glass is my supplier now.
I mostly followed this writeup from an another forum member here. I printed it out, scanned into a pdf file and can email to you. Sent you a PM. Can not get it to upload here, the writeup is of a blue 69 and ends with "aint she purty"
I have not done one in probably 20 years, but that's how we used to do them with the 3m ribbon.
The last few cars (all antique) I've called the local shop, they did it for parts + labor cheap enough. They used the hot glue tube with I guess means the next guy is gonna hate them haha.
The last Corvette I had done was like $249 for everything. I'd probably do it myself if the glass was $100, but people are saying they paid more just for the glass + shipping.
nice thing about this glass is the side trim screws on. if you stuck a foam strip with no adhesive under the glass the trim would keep the glass in. no, i am not recommending you do that...
This 3m ribbon is some sticky stuff. You also use a glass primer before use around the edges to contact the 3m ribbon. The way I understand it, the feds mandated glue due to concerns about the windshield popping out in a crash. After doing a number of internet searches, I concluded getting in a car crash in a C3 bad enough to pop the windshield out was going to be a very bad thing; and losing the windshield was going to be the least of your worries. However, suggest you do "due diligence" as they say and make your own decision. And very much agree the molding is a big item to hold the windshield in place. If you go over a railroad track in an original unmodified 68 frame (more frame flex) with a glued in windshield, I have had the windshield glass crack, ugh! My 2 cents, ha!
I have done 2 of these, 73 and 69. The hardest part is getting the old windshield out if it is good and you want
to re-install it.
The 73 was 40 yrs ago and used the original type ribbon seal.
The 69 is the current car I am still restoring and I used the latest sealant, that stuff is very messy.
A dry fit first is a must and use spacers to get the windshield at the correct height.
The video posted is not bad, I also reviewed.
Joe
Safe-lite replaced mine but it's been at least 10 years ago. Tech that did it used modern glue and luckily he was a muscle car guy (We talked about his 1970 Chevelle as he worked) and said he was the local Safe-lite vintage car installer. Since he used the modern "caulk gun" type glue I was worried that the windshield would sit too far into the pocket and cause a big gap between it and the stainless steel trim. He had the solution which was to put a thick bead of glue to raise the windshield up to the proper location. He said he's done 100's of '60's and 70's muscle cars this way. It turned out great. Another good thing about using the modern glue is most modern car windshield actually are part of the body stiffness integrity so the modern glue is much stronger than the old butyl tape. I noticed my convertible windshield frame doesn't move as much as it did with the original windshield installed.
Here is a picture of the glue:
Safe-lite replaced mine but it's been at least 10 years ago. Tech that did it used modern glue and luckily he was a muscle car guy (We talked about his 1970 Chevelle as he worked) and said he was the local Safe-lite vintage car installer. Since he used the modern "caulk gun" type glue I was worried that the windshield would sit too far into the pocket and cause a big gap between it and the stainless steel trim. He had the solution which was to put a thick bead of glue to raise the windshield up to the proper location. He said he's done 100's of '60's and 70's muscle cars this way. It turned out great. Another good thing about using the modern glue is most modern car windshield actually are part of the body stiffness integrity so the modern glue is much stronger than the old butyl tape. I noticed my convertible windshield frame doesn't move as much as it did with the original windshield installed.
Here is a picture of the glue:
Did mine the exact same way. Been in the car 9 years now with no issues. That product is called windshield urethane adhesive. The trick is to use the setting blocks and use the stainless trim to serve as a gauge. Only press the windshield in until the trim fits nice a flush. Removing a windshield that has been urethaned in is a little more challenging. A sawzaw with a putty knife attachment will do the trick. 😎
I cut them out using a large soldering iron which has a 1/4" round female tool holder... lol get your minds out of the gutter...
I took a piece of 1/4" rod 3-4" long and
1. grind the first 2" to a flat kitchen knife profile then
2 bent it 90 degrees so it was an L shape -
3. set screw the new "tool" into the iron-
4. plug in and wait for it to heat up -
5. insert into windshield glue and pull with a cable at the base.
No sawing or worrying with tearing something up.
Works GREAT if you are going to reuse the original glass.
FWIW no one makes a reproduction windshield which is correct.
The TINT BAND does not follow the top contour of the glass - it goes straight across.
I cut them out using a large soldering iron which has a 1/4" round female tool holder... lol get your minds out of the gutter...
I took a piece of 1/4" rod 3-4" long and
1. grind the first 2" to a flat kitchen knife profile then
2 bent it 90 degrees so it was an L shape -
3. set screw the new "tool" into the iron-
4. plug in and wait for it to heat up -
5. insert into windshield glue and pull with a cable at the base.
No sawing or worrying with tearing something up.
Works GREAT if you are going to reuse the original glass.
FWIW no one makes a reproduction windshield which is correct.
The TINT BAND does not follow the top contour of the glass - it goes straight across.
This is pretty cool, (I have never gotten a windshield out without cracking it, the bottom usually gets me). Could you post a photo?
(BTW, tool descriptions will never be politically correct thank goodness!)
Last edited by 20mercury; Feb 20, 2021 at 12:01 AM.
Anyone replaced their own windshield???
