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We have been installing a TH700 in a 1971 Coupe.
The owner did see a install TV cable video on Youtube, but he is now in doubt.
The cable, as you can see here below, is installed so it doesn't open the valve in the transmission, in idle. When we installed it, one was under the car, looking at the valve, and another keept adjusting, just so it didn't open the valve.
So we assume, that he cable is correct installed.
But he is concerned about, it the geometry correct, when press the gas pedal?
Or does he need to buy a Holley bracket and cable?
There is a bracket for the carb arm you need. It puts the attachment point back and down a little. You should also set the cable using a pressure gauge but in most cases, full cable pull when the throttle is wide open works.
Not really as simple as that. It would be best to take it to a REPUTABLE local transmission shop and have them set up the T.V. cable properly. If not set right, the trans clutches can easily be fried with just a few "hot" runs.....
take a look at Bowtie Overdrives, they sell a system called TV Made EZ.
comes with base plate, cable and a cable clamp/bracket that goes onto the carb lever with the correct throw already worked out.
i'm using their setup on my '72
i also have a pressure gauge permanently mounted, zip tied to the chassis rail, in the engine bay that i can check the instant line pressure rise during cable adjustment.
Last edited by riverracer au; Mar 14, 2021 at 08:03 PM.
When I had a 700R4 in my '79 I used the Holley throttle linkage bracket. It provides the correct cable travel. If you don't have the right travel there is little hope of getting the cable adjusted correctly regardless of the method you use. I trust the Bowtie Overdrives kit does the same thing.
If you find a vendor with the proper hardware to mate with YOUR specific carburetor AND compatible T.V. cable....go for it. That would be ideal. If you can't find that "Holy Grail", go to a pro to have it done correctly.
You just need the Holley 20-121 bracket. The cable you have will be fine. Then, either set the cable using a pressure gauge so the pressure just starts to rise a couple of PSI at idle compared to a loose cable or set the cable to be fully pulled at WOT. You may find you have to compromise on the pressure check to get the full pull without the cable trying to stop the throttle, so check both.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Mar 14, 2021 at 11:50 PM.
It is imperative that you have the correct bracket and cable. Why? The TV cable is the only way these transmissions know how to adjust the line pressure in everyday driving.
If this isn't coordinated with engine speed and load......the trans will prematurely fail. 100% failure rate.
So the above 20-121 bracket is good for the carb but you also need the correct bracket for the cable too......it has to be far back enough and generally in the right spot up and down.
The TV made EZ setup in the picture above is outstanding......and at $2000+ for a 700r4......it is a no brainer to purchase the right setup....one that will give you piece of mind.
take a look at Bowtie Overdrives, they sell a system called TV Made EZ.
comes with base plate, cable and a cable clamp/bracket that goes onto the carb lever with the correct throw already worked out.
i'm using their setup on my '72
i also have a pressure gauge permanently mounted, zip tied to the chassis rail, in the engine bay that i can check the instant line pressure rise during cable adjustment.
Agree. Bow-Tie has spent $$$ engineering adapter to fit the carburetor (in my case, the Q-jet 1904) linkage so that correct geometry is maintained in the sweep of the throttle relative to the tension on the TVS cable. You also need to calibrate the cable according to Bow-Tie instructions. I used an external transmission line pressure gauge that threads into the case on road side of transmission. The instructions are very specific on measurement of the pressure and the point where the cable needs to be 'set'. Line pressure and throttle plate geometry are CRITICAL to transmission durability and proper performance/behavior.
I converted my 1980 L48 from TH350C to 700R4 in 2002. I farmed out the machining of the driveshaft but did all the measurements, removal, install and calibration in my garage at home. VERY happy with the results. I have an early TV Made EZ setup. See photo.
You don't need the cable bracket. Just the bracket on the linkage. I believe Fitech says they use a linkage arm the same as the Holley arm so the Holley bracket should fit it.
If you want to know you have it right, then follow this picture. Just ignore the part about the slider and adjuster tab and such at the cable end because you don't have that type of cable.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Mar 16, 2021 at 03:13 PM.
You don't need the cable bracket. Just the bracket on the linkage. I believe Fitech says they use a linkage arm the same as the Holley arm so the Holley bracket should fit it.
If you want to know you have it right, then follow this picture. Just ignore the part about the slider and adjuster tab and such at the cable end because you don't have that type of cable.
If you are into geometry, the above pic is all you need....and, of course, making certain that the T.V. pressure increase is initiated at 'closed throttle' position....and that it is NOT completely maxed out when WOT is achieved. Got all that?
If you are into geometry, the above pic is all you need....and, of course, making certain that the T.V. pressure increase is initiated at 'closed throttle' position....and that it is NOT completely maxed out when WOT is achieved. Got all that?
TH700 in a 1971 Coupe
