Mine is kind of weird. When I go to start sometimes the starter turns but is seems very slow and labored and while turning it would click like the battery is low on voltage then start turning, click click, turn. If I keep doing that it will start eventually. I've taken to solenoid off and checked it out and it seems fine. All the grounds have been checked and cleaned, at the battery and the engine to frame ground. Voltage while cranking is good (checking at the battery while cranking, have not checked voltage at the starter while cranking) even after letting it sit for almost 2 months between driving and I didn't use my battery disconnect to see if I have battery drain. Starter seems to be ok (have not ruled that out yet) as I think its a voltage/current issue right now.
Here is some things I have not checked yet:
Check the starter bolts to see if one has come loose. It's not grinding the flywheel but the starter seems to labor when turning. If one of the bolts has loosened up may be binding a little?
Check the resistance of the battery to starter cable. It's 50 years old so it may have turned into a giant resistor. I'm hoping it's not that because it would be a pain to replace with the trans tunnel insulation and trans in place.
This is very intermittent. Sometimes I can go out and it will start right up normally, cold or hot.. Drive around the block, pull into the garage and shut down then try to start again and it does this.
Suggestions.......

 

How old is the starter AND is it a GM/OEM starter or some aftermarket/mini starter you're troubleshooting?

 

Starter is probably 15 years old or so maybe older. I'd have to look through my receipts for an exact date. Normal big old GM style.

 

Have you checked the engine block to frame ground cable?
A few years back I was having simular troubles. found the block to frame cable was "Green" on the inside. replaced with a nice heavy duty one. problem fixed and even my charging system worked better. just something to look at.

 

Same thing here...the cables looked perfect. I removed about 3" of the covering on the positive & negative cables....the copper strands were completely Green with corrosion.

BUT ....the brushes in the starter could be worn out and/or sticking...Not making good contact on the commutator.

 

My money is on the old, turd, 25 lb. starter. Sorry, but this is one area of the car I feel should be updated no matter what. I seriously recommend the CVR 5323 or 5323r if you have points. Even if the cable to the battery is bad.....it is an awesome upgrade. It is half the size, one third the weight and about 5x more powerful......it will also never leave you stranded. It permanent magnet, so no brushes to wear out.

Jebby

 

take a voltage reading with the meter ground lead on the starter body then with it on a clean section of the frame and see if there is an increase in voltage while cranking with it to the frame, if so add a ground cable from the starter to the motor mount frame support.

It worked for mine, dropped about 4 volts while cranking prior to the added cable

May not be your issue but easy enough to check

Neal

 

I'll start with the easy stuff and replace my engine ground strap first then go from there. Thanks everyone and I'll report back. Right now all my fun money is tied up in Mr. Mike seat covers for my Fiero seat swap so a mini starter is the last thing I'll try.

 

My money is on the old, turd, 25 lb. starter. Sorry, but this is one area of the car I feel should be updated no matter what. I seriously recommend the CVR 5323 or 5323r if you have points. Even if the cable to the battery is bad.....it is an awesome upgrade. It is half the size, one third the weight and about 5x more powerful......it will also never leave you stranded. It permanent magnet, so no brushes to wear out.

Jebby

these CVR starters have the positive cable hook up on the side of the starter if i'm not mistaken. how do you connect the pos cable to it. when i look at my cable i don't see how the cable would reach the positive terminal plus the end of the terminal is bent at a 90 degree angle which would make it even harder to hook up. do you replace the positive cable when converting to a CVR starter or is here a easier way? this may be a stupid question but i can't see how the original style cable would bolt to the starter without some kind of modification. thanks.

 

Yes the 90 degree end would have to be swapped for a flat cable end....not terribly difficult with the right crimpers and shrink tube.....you may have to clock it too....I had to clock mine two positions but that is easy to do too.....but, after installing eight of these on eight different cars including my 82’ Big Block pickup....I have yet to use one shim on any.....that is the upside.
If you had to you could flatten the 90 degree out with a hammer....kinda ugly but effective.
If you get a chance....read the reviews on Summit....
The two idiots that give it a bad review don’t realize that the gear is not supposed to throw all the way out....it works on thousands of Chevy’s but not theirs LOL!

Jebby

 

thanks! that answered my question. i may give the CVR a try if my current mini starter continues to give me problems.

 

I've wanted to do it for a long time for the weight reduction alone. After all my weight reduction right now weigh in at 2997 with 1/4 tank of gas and my fat *** not in the car. My goal was to get under 3000 so I kinda stopped worrying about that once the city dump scale said I made it! I'm also the kind of guy that replaces parts when they fail and not just to upgrade unless it's part of a plan like weight reduction. That was on my weight reduction list but never got replaced since my goal was achieved.

 

 

Ya, I was really surprised. Of course my car started out life pretty light as I don't have power steering, power brakes, it came with aluminum radiator etc. I have aluminum heads, intake, offset t-arms that saved a little, composite spring, aluminum water pump, aluminum fly wheel, and headers. Once I get my Fiero seats in they'll shave off a few pounds.
Here is a good breakdown of engine and options weights if anyone is interested that I have in my weight reduction folder when my car was on a diet. Don't know how accurate this data is but is should be pretty close.








Now if only I could lower my weight............

 

Radio control the car, 😂
If it's original I recommend changing the battery ground cable. A gear reduction starter is the only way to go

 

Just ordered a roll of 6g copper stranded wire and am going to make a new battery and engine ground cables. Looked at the vendors but it seems they have the Corvette premium price on these cables. I have all the tools and crimpers just didn't have the wire which cost me $13.