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Have been shaking down my LS6/4L60e swap lately and it is running nicely. One issue I have is that it is 'cold blooded', when you first start it up it seems to stall a bit and die when you put it in gear to back out of the garage unless you give it a bit of gas, it seems like it should not need that, once it is warmed up it is fine. I have not had it tuned and I am running a fairly mild cam (LS1 Stage 2 from Cammotion). It starts fine and idles up to around 900 when cold and will idle closer to 600 when warm. I have been watching everything via the torque app and I am not getting any codes and all of the sensors seem to read fine, including the coolant temperature. I have checked fairly thoroughly to make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Any idea what the issue could be?
Just for comparison, with the LS3 I finished last year, I can start that up cold and put it in reverse and it backs out without any hesitation, it seems when it detects some load and the rpm drops it adjusts accordingly to bring the RPM back up, maybe the 2013 LS3 works a bit differently than my 2002 LS6/LS1?
Looking at the specs, it's a pretty mild cam, which is probably why you've been able to run it without tuning.
That said, it'll need to be tuned in order to get it running perfectly. It's breathing more than stock, especially at idle, so things like your fuel, spark and air tables will need to be tweaked, along with idle air, timing and fuel enrichment.
Unless you have an AFR gauge on the car, I'd be careful driving it hard until you get it tuned. You don't want it leaning out under hard throttle.
As said above a tune is in order. When I had my 98 Wrangler LS6/4L60E tuned he did it while I was driving. He something about "air cracker" setting that can affect the idle depending on the mods to the engine. Sounds like you may need a bit more fuel until the engine gets up to temp. Kind of like keeping the choke on a bit longer.
As said above a tune is in order. When I had my 98 Wrangler LS6/4L60E tuned he did it while I was driving. He something about "air cracker" setting that can affect the idle depending on the mods to the engine. Sounds like you may need a bit more fuel until the engine gets up to temp. Kind of like keeping the choke on a bit longer.
Throttle cracker. Usually the cracker causes a hanging idle when slowing down, or the RPMs coming down off a rev.
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isnt that idle a bit low? I would think a cold idle would be over a thousand and hot would be above 750. I agree with all the tune statements. My neighbor fought with his for a long time until he got it tuned. Then some more as his tuner didnt adjust the tune for the tranny delete. He was a drifter and couldnt get the thing to run consistently. He found out the tune for the tranny was holdng him to about 40% power until they figured it out.
Nah, it's a table within the factory GM ecu that can play around with the amount of air coming in the throttle body under deceleration, and other areas of driving.
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I run my CTS-V with the 6L90E in full manual mode sometimes and when downshifting the car will rev momentarily before making the shift. Hence, the reason I asked about the rev matching. I had a 370Z 10 years ago that rev matched with a manual trans. Worked good.