Car has a non-tilt and slide steering column.

Need to get at the ignition switch that sits on top of the column under the dash panel as the Ignition switch connector plug has come loose from its socket, and due to the loom and the restricted space under the dash it very is very difficult to reach into for reconnection.
Does any one have any suggestions as to how best to tackle this?

Keeps safe and well
Paul

 

Paul,

You're certainly correct; it is a tight fit under there.

Before I would lower the steering column for access (which would make the job easier), I would get under the dash as far as I could with a small inspection mirror that has a long handle with an adjustable mirror head, and a tiny, bright LED flashlight (or 'torch', since you're in London ) to see if I could get eyes on exactly where the harness connector is in relation to the switch. That may give you an assist to 'working blind' by sense of feel. Removing the driver's seat (only four bolts) will give you more maneuvering room.

If that doesn't work, lowering the column would be my next step. Would need to first remove the lower column shroud (three screws, if I remember correctly), and then the bracket that holds the vacuum and wiper override switches (along with their vacuum and electrical connections).

I next remove the two nuts on the studs that come through the firewall at the lower end of the column where it meets the firewall, rather than the two bolts that hold the column to the support bracket, because if those bolts are the first that are removed, you'd need to make sure you're supporting the column while the nuts on the firewall studs are loosened, and that can be awkward. It's easier to control the 'drop' of the column if the bolts are removed last.

I hope you can fix this easily and pain-free!

Larry

 

Thanks Larry,

I have already felt the pain, as the only way I could hope to get at it was by removing the seat as you suggested and then laying on my back with feet over the battery compartment, not elegant or pain free at my age. Still very difficult and I was wondering how I might be able to persuade my wife to try as she has smaller hands, the look on her face said it all.........!!!

Guess I am going to try lowering the column instead; to access the bulkhead bolts to loosen this I notice there is a plastic panel that covers them, this does not appear to have any screws holding it in place but what look like pop/push-on clips. Before I try teasing this off is this correct as don't want to break it?

Keeps safe and well
Paul

 

Oops. That's what I get by relying on memory and not taking a look at the car.

Yes, that plastic piece and it's underlying piece of insulation must be moved in order to gain access to the nuts. If those pieces are still held in place by the three rubber plugs that the factory installed they can be maneuvered out of the way by sliding them up and off the two lower plugs (the plastic piece and the insulation have slots, not holes, that the plugs pass through), and then flexing them around the column as they pivot on the third, rightmost plug.

Don't completely remove the nuts from the studs; just run them out to the end of the studs, which, once the other two bolts are removed (the larger ones, closer to the steering wheel end of the column), will allow enough downward column movement that you (or you smaller-handed wife) can reconnect your harness and switch. Since the column will be flexing down at the coupler flange at the steering gear; I'd suggest that one of you sit in the passenger seat to support some of the weight of the column while the other works on making the re-connection.

By the way, at this point of disassembly, all that remains to remove the column from the car (in case you ever want to), is to remove the screw at the upper end (nearer the firewall) of the coupler flange, disconnect the transmission shifter interlock cable from the column lever on the engine compartment side of the firewall, and finish removing the two nuts that you've already run out to the ends of the studs (OK, actually it's only one stud; the second is a bolt that goes through the interlock cable mounting plate), and then remove that plate. There's a ground wire plugged onto the column, and with that and the remaining ignition harness wiring disconnected from the switch, the column will be ready to wiggle out. If you do that, make note of the relative position of cables/wires/hoses that the column passes through or around under the dash so that you don't run into any surprises on re-installation.

Don't worry; you'll be able to make the re-connection you're seeking. It can be done!

 

Thanks so much Larry

A very useful guide that I will use and so glad I asked as I assumed they were push in connectors holding the plastic panel in place and if I had tried to lever them out it would not have had a good outcome.

Keeps safe and well
Paul

 

Me, I would always undo the steering coupler (rag joint) if dropping the steering column to ensure you don't damage it. If working alone you can take a T top off and put a suitable piece of wood across the gap between the top of the windscreen and the rear part of the roof (padded to prevent the wood damaging the paintwork, you can then loop a sling through the steering wheel and around the piece of wood to support the steering column while you connect the wiring harness. At least that is how I did it.

 

That's a good idea!

 

Yes agree a good idea. I will also loosen the rag joint as this looks straightforward (just a few bolts) and seem worth doing to prevent damage.

Keep safe and well
Paul