I just pulled my engine and trans from my ‘68. Im going to clean it up, throw on some performance heads and a better cam backed by a new TKO 500 trans.

but...while it out what else should I do?

Ill definitely do a new clutch

 

Any problems with overheating? Repair or replace radiator if needed.
Steering box or Power Steering system out of adjustment/leaking? Repair or rebuild if needed.
Rag joint tired/oil soaked?...........
Tie Rod ends worn?.............
Vacuum System/hoses/vacuum tank leaking? Repair or replace.......
Wiper motor acting up?
Hood hinges worn/mounting areas cracked?.............
Hood latches worn/won't latch properly/mounting areas cracked?

Any other Members want to add to the "While He's at It List"?

 

Make a list and stick to it or this will turn into a frame off restoration.

 

I also have a 68 and installed a Tremec TKO600 5 speed. My biggest regret is, I did not make the transmission crossmember removable. I had a issue with my throw out bearing and had to pull the motor again. If my crossmember was removable I could have just pulled the trans and bell housing.

 

clean up and paint the engine compartment... I wish I did a better job when I swapped my engine but it was the least of my concerns at the time.
Also if you are thinking at all about updating the feel of your steering with the borgeson conversion now would be the time.

 

rebuild the entire bleeping car. but then you will hear this awful screeching noise. coming from the kitchen when the spousal unit sees how much u spent...

 

Agree with both of those statements. You will thank yourself later if you clean it up and paint it. You don't need to do a great job.

Oh, and you might want to weld in some stiffeners around the lower control arms and/or motor mounts. Great time to do that. I have some pics somewhere.

 

With the hood off and engine out, and assuming you don't have AC, it's not a lot of work to remove the radiator and radiator support (since you have a 4-speed, there's no trans cooling lines to contend with). With them out, you have access to clean, degrease, repaint sections of the frame and front crossmember, and you can do a nice clean-up on the area in front of the radiator. Hopefully you can move the car outside so you can climb in the engine compartment with a garden hose and bucket of soapy water.

A low-buck job is to remove (make notes of where they came from!!) your vacuum hoses, clean them gently with a sponge and dishwashing liquid (so as to keep the colored stripes intact), and then treat them with Armor All - they'll look like new.

Replace engine wiring harness? Replace forward lamp wiring harness? (This is where you take Mr. D's caution to heart)

Another low-buck job is to remove any relays (horn? power window?) to clean them up and wire-wheel the tin covers to remove half-a-century of corrosion/oxidation.

R&R the horns and horn brackets to clean/wire wheel/repaint.

Have a supply of different-sized wire brushes and scrapers to degrease, and a like supply of soft bristle brushes to wash/clean crud from wheelhouses, etc. Repaint as needed (spray can).

To inspire you, here's how I did it in 1988, and a brief shot of the results:

 

JD,

Which way does your Heater Core come out and how old is it?

 

Probably a good point to mention for your clean-up is to NOT attach any bracket, pulley, clip, shield, bolt, etc, back onto the engine before installation until they have been degreased, scrubbed and, if necessary, repainted. It may be a long time, if ever, before you'll have this kind of access again.

If your original ignition shielding is missing any components, and you want to to make it complete, this is the time to replace anything missing (disregard this point if you have headers...).

Degrease/scrub the bellhousing. Use aluminum spray paint to make it look new.

 

Alot of this was said before but it bears repeating....do you have a quickjack car lift?....corvette life is easier with it

• climb into the engine compartment and what ever you can touch, clean it, paint it, or rebuild it, including your front suspension and A arms.
• Take pics of your shims for you front suspension so if you do touch them you get them put back in correctly and it will save you an alignment. If you remove the front suspension, with the engine out and the rearend is off the ground, there needs to be jackstands behind the rear wheels, the jack point infnot of the rear wheel will become a fulcrum....I know
• Check your wiring as well.
• When you paint go to walmart and buy a giant roll of tinfoil and use it for wrapping wires and hoses that you dont want painted, tape and paper the body.
• I second the trans cross member cutting and making removable.
• Consider replacing your heater core...its easier with the engine out.
• Pull out the over flow tank and clean it and polish it. It looks so much nicer with a good clean and polish
• remember when it goes back together you may have to have your driveshaft cut,shortened and rebalanced. Up here it cost about $85 bucks.
• consider replacing all your brake lines. I was able to do all mine from underneath with the engine out. I think i replaced the long drivers side rear line buy pulling it from the rear forward....trying to remember....its stainless and moved easily through the frame with some effort....

 

-Definitely make the cross member removable.
-Now is a good time to replace your battery cable. Replacing it with some really good finely stranded welding cable will help ensure better starting in the future.
-Check and replace if necessary the heater core and A/C evaporator core. At least pull the HVAC box, split it, clean it out and reseal it. You'll never have this kind of access with the engine in.

 

crossmember dent tool fix if needed? ac? access components ? brake lines (crossover front)

 

...and just in case this is the first time your hood has been off the car, buy one of these small hood latch alignment tools sold by many vendors. It's cheap insurance that can prevent some enormous headaches when you go to reinstall the hood.

 

Get and enjoy a 6 of Lars beer.

 

Where did you get the TKO 600? I plan on doing a 5 speed swap as well and was going to do a TKO500. Why did you do the 600?

 

I have a MaxJax so I have complete access.

My heater core was capped off so I may trouble shoot this to figure out why?
I have electric headlights so no issues there
I am going to replace my brake lines but the suspension up front is all new
I have the Borgeson Power Steering conversion so that done already.
I think I will pull my steering and have it rebuilt as it seems a little notchy.

 

While you're making the tranny crossmember removable and you have the welder out go ahead and weld up the stitch weld gaps in the engine compatrment. And, of course, clean and paint the engine compartment.

 

With the engine accessories now readily available, consider which of them should receive some new 'wear' parts: brushes for starter (and how old is the starter solenoid???): brushes for alternator; grease exchange for steering box (there is a method for this without opening up the unit); condition of power steering components? (inexpensive rebuild kits are available for the control valve and apply cylinder...new hoses are a MUST if they are old.
If the rubber brake lines at the calipers are original [or old and hard], they should be replaced...even if you aren't doing other brake work. Easier to do them with engine out.

 

If I had my engine out today (I've had it out a few times over the years) I'd replace the + battery to starter cable. I know mine has turned into a big resistor and needs replacement. The problem with doing it with the trans in place is it runs under the trans tunnel insulation blanket and I don't know if I can get it out and in with the trans in place. Not sure if '68's have this insulation but I would think it does.
What I did the first time I had the engine out was to put my car on a trailer and take it to a "you car wash" place and totally degreased and cleaned the engine compartment with the high pressure sprayer (and not doing it in my driveway as most of those "you car wash" recycles their water so the grease and oil won't end up in the ocean).
Fix anything that's difficult to get to with the engine in place. Probably the biggest item in the category would be the heater core. Paint what needs to be painted.