bad starter sound?
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Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Lafayette Indiana
bad starter sound?
it just started then stalled and died then when i went to start it again this happened it's not the battery because I jumped the car before trying to start it agian
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I would suggest you put that battery on a trickle charger. get it charged right up, then take it in and get it load tested. That should give you answers. A fully charged battery should have 12.7 - 12.8 volts depending on temperature. But just because it has voltage doesn't mean it's still pushing amp's . If the battery is good. time to start checking wiring, cables and Alternator output.
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From: Lafayette Indiana
I couldn't see it being the battery I just got the battery 4 months ago. the engine stalled because it was too cold and I didn't give it enough time before putting it in reverse. I also had it hooked up to my second car for a good 10 mins before trying to start it again. However it does die if I don't drive it daily and for at least have it running for 30 mins a day
Melting Slicks
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From: Midlothian VA
I couldn't see it being the battery I just got the battery 4 months ago. the engine stalled because it was too cold and I didn't give it enough time before putting it in reverse. I also had it hooked up to my second car for a good 10 mins before trying to start it again. However it does die if I don't drive it daily and for at least have it running for 30 mins a day
Search "battery parasitic drain" on this forum and you'll find plenty of troubleshooting threads to get you started.
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From: Virginia
No-start is usually the battery. It's the easiest thing to diagnose, and the cheapest to fix, so double-check that first. Please take some voltage readings, or go to Autozone, or wherever, and have them load test your battery.
The battery may not be the primary culprit, your alternator could have a bad diode, causing a parasitic drain and incomplete charging, but the battery is still the issue.
Running your engine to charge your battery is a poor use of gas and money. A multimeter (and a battery charger) will also help you figure out what is really going on.
The battery may not be the primary culprit, your alternator could have a bad diode, causing a parasitic drain and incomplete charging, but the battery is still the issue.
Running your engine to charge your battery is a poor use of gas and money. A multimeter (and a battery charger) will also help you figure out what is really going on.
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From: Lafayette Indiana
@Bikespace Couldn't find my meter so I had to get a new one but I think I found the issue the battery will hold a charge at 12.56 but when I tried to start the car it dropped to 8.24. So im guessing I have a drain somewhere that killed it
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From: Virginia
@Bikespace Couldn't find my meter so I had to get a new one but I think I found the issue the battery will hold a charge at 12.56 but when I tried to start the car it dropped to 8.24. So im guessing I have a drain somewhere that killed it
Check the connections, and the battery ground on the frame (clean the connection), but get the battery load tested. It is probably toast, but hopefully still under warranty.
Do you know how to find your current drain with a multimeter? After you replace your battery, you should check your voltage while driving/charging. There are lots of places the current drain can exist, which is why I have battery disconnects in both of my C3s.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Lafayette Indiana
@Bikespace that sucks I just got the battery not long ago. also don't you just disconnect the negative on the battery to find if anything is still draining the battery
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From: Virginia
Where'd you get the battery? If it was Walmart, or Costco, like a professional, you might get a new battery for free. Or at least pro-rated.
If your multi-meter has an ammeter (and a fuse!), you can connect it in series with the battery to get an idea of how serious your current drain is. You can then pull fuses from under your dash to try to isolate the circuit with the power drain. Note that the starter is not fused, and the alternator is fused with fusable links at the starter solenoid, so if the drain is in the alternator, you won't find it by pulling fuses.
@Bikespace that sucks I just got the battery not long ago. also don't you just disconnect the negative on the battery to find if anything is still draining the battery
Racer
Joined: Dec 2016
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I would definitely check for parasitic battery drain, but it could be as simple as a bad cell in the battery. Battery quality has been pretty crappy since enviro-***** went full blitz on lead and shut down most of the smelters worldwide....
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From: New Or-leens Loo-z-anna
Also check the engine timing. If it's advanced too much it can add to the problem by not letting the crankshaft rotate as easily as it normally should.
Old starter = old brushes....in that case, rep;ace the brushes (every little bit of improvement helps the situation)
Old starter = old brushes....in that case, rep;ace the brushes (every little bit of improvement helps the situation)
Last edited by doorgunner; May 14, 2021 at 08:59 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Lafayette Indiana
the starter is shot. I replaced the battery and checked the fuses as well as replacing the alternator that was not charging the battery properly. However, when I tried removing the starter to go have it tested I found that the exhaust pipe run right under the starter so even after removing the two bolts to the starter I can wiggle the starter but can quite seem to remove it. do you have to drop the exhaust pipe to remove the starter?