Changing brake fluid
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 65,981
Likes: 15
Re: Changing brake fluid (scottw)
I am no expert on this because it have been a couple of years since I bled my brakes. There are also several new gizmos to help with the job. As you may already know, the back wheels have 2 bleed ports per wheel, an inner and outer. I think the bleeding procedure is as follows: inner rear driver side wheel; outer rear driver side wheel; inner rear passenger side; outer rear passenger side; front driver side; front passenger side. Others can describe their gizmos or tech tips, but I think that is the basic correct procedure. If not then hopefully they will correct me soon.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
Re: Changing brake fluid (scottw)
You can do this yourself by "gravity" bleeding your brakes. Put the car on stands and remove each wheel. Start from the right rear caliper, then left rear, then rignt front, and lastly, left front. Place a clear plastic hose on the bleeder and open it a quarter turn or so. Place the other end of the hose in a container. Let it drain until the fluid is clear, then close the bleeder screw and move on to the next caliper. Do not step on the brake pedal when a bleeder is open or you will introduce air into the system. This is a slow process as the fluid takes a while to drain. Be sure to keep the master cylinder full or you'll could pull air into the system. When you are done, you will have fresh fluid in the entire system. I suggest using DOT 4 as it has less affinity for water. You will need about a quart. If you have a friend to help you, it can be done quicker by just using the standard brake bleeding procedures. Always bleed from the caliper furthermost from the master cylinder. I hope this helps you. Email me if you have ayny questions.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
Re: Changing brake fluid (scottw)
scottw,
Take a look at the condition of the brake fluid in the bottom of your master cylinder. I am sure that my 1980 NEVER had the brake fluid changed.
On the bottom of the MC was a black gritty sludge. The inside of the brake calipers was worse :eek: . It was like Hershey Syrup that has been left outside for a couple of days. I am going completely through the brake system with new lines, calipers, hoses, MC, etc.
If you have deposits in the MC, plan on having them inside the calipers as well. If that is the case a simple fluid change probably won't be enough. One thing though - the calipers didn't leak - they couldn't. :lol: :lol:
Here is a link to Corvette FAQ on brakes. Lots of information.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/brakes.asp
Take a look at the condition of the brake fluid in the bottom of your master cylinder. I am sure that my 1980 NEVER had the brake fluid changed.
On the bottom of the MC was a black gritty sludge. The inside of the brake calipers was worse :eek: . It was like Hershey Syrup that has been left outside for a couple of days. I am going completely through the brake system with new lines, calipers, hoses, MC, etc.
If you have deposits in the MC, plan on having them inside the calipers as well. If that is the case a simple fluid change probably won't be enough. One thing though - the calipers didn't leak - they couldn't. :lol: :lol:
Here is a link to Corvette FAQ on brakes. Lots of information.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/brakes.asp
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Re: Changing brake fluid (scottw)
Scott, I dunno about your mechanical abilities there, but wipe your finger in the bottom of the fluid,...comes out clean....ok, might try changing it....but if not, and I suspect NOT.....you really need pull all the calipers and go throug the entire system.....first off, any caliper leaking??? easily seen by wet looking crap all over the place, inside wheel, inside tire....if any of them exhibit that WET look, full of dust and dirt...well you need rebuild that one and it's mate on the other side.....at minimum.....
you probably have stainless calipers allready, as these cars are 20+ years aold now, and NOT having stainless at this late date is about impossible...
so if that is the case, do a search here on past postings about brakes...
GENE
you probably have stainless calipers allready, as these cars are 20+ years aold now, and NOT having stainless at this late date is about impossible...
so if that is the case, do a search here on past postings about brakes...
GENE
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 4
From: Okinawa Okinawa
Re: Changing brake fluid (mrvette)
The guy I bought the car from had changed all the calipers a year before I bought the car. I assume it was all changed out then but I'll check. I don't have any leaking. The brakes are really good on the car. Much better than any other I have ever driven. I just want to do a little preventative maint before they go south and it cost a lot of $$ to fix.
If there is no sludge, I'll try the gravity feed.
If there is no sludge, I'll try the gravity feed.
Racer
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach CA
Re: Changing brake fluid (scottw)
Bleeding brakes, from my experience:
Gravity bleeding: Free. Works, but is slow. Can be frustrating if there is a lot of air in the system. Never left me confident.
Mighty Vac bleeder: about $30. This thing made me so angry. It sucks air in through the bleeder threads and maybe even the caliper seals. Some people have used them successfully, I am not one of them.
One man brake bleeder with check valve: About $8. This would make a great two man operation. I could not figure out how to rig it so no air could get in, but setting it up so just a little enters is easy. Just a little air is too much!
Motive Products Brake Bleeder: About $80 after adapters for multiple cars and shipping. I think list is about $55. Whoever invented the chevy adapter isn't so bright. But, the product works well as advertised. It is not a miracle, but in my experience, it is the only "one man" brake bleeding tool that works. http://www.motiveproducts.com
Gravity bleeding: Free. Works, but is slow. Can be frustrating if there is a lot of air in the system. Never left me confident.
Mighty Vac bleeder: about $30. This thing made me so angry. It sucks air in through the bleeder threads and maybe even the caliper seals. Some people have used them successfully, I am not one of them.
One man brake bleeder with check valve: About $8. This would make a great two man operation. I could not figure out how to rig it so no air could get in, but setting it up so just a little enters is easy. Just a little air is too much!
Motive Products Brake Bleeder: About $80 after adapters for multiple cars and shipping. I think list is about $55. Whoever invented the chevy adapter isn't so bright. But, the product works well as advertised. It is not a miracle, but in my experience, it is the only "one man" brake bleeding tool that works. http://www.motiveproducts.com
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 65,981
Likes: 15
Re: Changing brake fluid (scottw)
I think also that there is a Gunnison (spelling?) EZ bleeder that works using 20 pounds of spare tire pressure attached to the reservoir. Using air pressure you force fluid through the lines. I have heard good things about it, but have never tried it.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
Re: Changing brake fluid (mrvette)
......... you probably have stainless calipers allready, as these cars are 20+ years aold now, and NOT having stainless at this late date is about impossible......
That's what I thought about the calipers BEFORE I took them off. I have four of those "about impossible" calipers sitting on my garage floor. This car had 83K miles on the odometer - the caliper cylinders were rusted and filled with a black ooze - it is a wonder the car stopped. :blueangel: