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Old May 19, 2021 | 10:26 AM
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Default Evans Waterless Coolant

Anyone here using it?
If so, what feedback can you offer?
Thanks, Greg
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Old May 19, 2021 | 10:41 AM
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Read about this years ago, but I seem to remember that this stuff requires a stronger water pump to circulate the coolant. Basically a water pump with more head pressure. Never used it because of the pump requirement. I wonder if that's changed now?
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Old May 19, 2021 | 10:51 AM
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Why? Does it have a much higher boiling point? Does it require your cooling system to be capable of handling higher pressures?
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Old May 19, 2021 | 10:55 AM
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For me, the cost/benefit is just not there. I'll stick with the 50/50 mix.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg
Anyone here using it?
If so, what feedback can you offer?
Thanks, Greg
I have to say Greg I saw one post here on CF that swears by it another on Amazon swears by it and when I finish my build I may even choose to use it.
Call Evans and speak with a tech for prep as to how to use it.

Only one way to find out.........use it.

Good luck

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Old May 19, 2021 | 12:28 PM
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Pro" No corrosion in radiator, block, heads, intake manifolds, heater core, heater control value. Extends life of hoses, and water pump. Uses oem parts. I always recommend a up graded radiator and water pump but it works fine with the stock parts.
Con" You have to remove all water and coolant, and it is not cheap.
They sell a flush to remove the old coolant and any remaining water.
https://www.evanscoolant.com/
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Old May 19, 2021 | 12:43 PM
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The specific heat of water is very high, about 4200 J/kg K, which makes it so good at transferring heat. That's about 60% more effective than this stuff, and 75% more effective than pure antifreeze.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/Custome...og_hi_perf.pdf
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Old May 19, 2021 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunfighter13
Pro" No corrosion in radiator, block, heads, intake manifolds, heater core, heater control value. Extends life of hoses, and water pump. Uses oem parts. I always recommend a up graded radiator and water pump but it works fine with the stock parts.
Con" You have to remove all water and coolant, and it is not cheap.
They sell a flush to remove the old coolant and any remaining water.
https://www.evanscoolant.com/
I don't recall any corrosion in my cooling system except for the few years I neglected it and had to recore my rad after 20 yrs of service. Rubber hoses can deteriorate from the outside also. Evans won't help that.

Originally Posted by Yadkin
The specific heat of water is very high, about 4200 J/kg K, which makes it so good at transferring heat. That's about 60% more effective than this stuff, and 75% more effective than pure antifreeze.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/Custome...og_hi_perf.pdf
The thermostat doesn't open based on coolant type - it opens based upon coolant temperature. The engine will run at its normal operating temperature regardless of coolant type.

Again, I don't see any benefit for the cost to convert.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie


The thermostat doesn't open based on coolant type - it opens based upon coolant temperature. The engine will run at its normal operating temperature regardless of coolant type.

Again, I don't see any benefit for the cost to convert.
I see a detriment, based on a specific heat much less than water.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 02:54 PM
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I never use this stuff for the same reason I don't use Dot 5 brake fluid.........

1) The system has to be flushed and cleaned or new to use it....
2) It does not do anything better than the regular stuff if all of the components are function 100%
3) It does away with the chance of some ******* mixing the regular stuff into your high rent cocktail....
4) You can get distilled water anywhere.....you can get Evans coolant from people who sell Evans coolant....and I have yet to see a jug anywhere in real life.

Big fat nope.

Jebby
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Old May 19, 2021 | 03:27 PM
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The coolant can [and DOES] alter the operating temperature of the engine. The coolant, and its properties, define how well heat is transferred to the radiator fins. Less heat transfer, less cooling capability. If the radiator has an excess of cooling capability, that will prevent a lot of cooling issues.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 04:07 PM
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The thermostat controls the heat of the engine because its a valve that operates by temperature. The radiator just cools the coolant and the stat opens when it needs cooler coolant and closes when it doesn't. Irrelevant how fast or slow which coolant sheds its heat to the rad. The engine temperature will still be 180* whether its water, 50/50, Evans or mercury.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Why? Does it have a much higher boiling point? Does it require your cooling system to be capable of handling higher pressures?
Yes, boiling point is above 375 degrees F. but the pressures are much lower.
Here is a quote from their website:

"As it heats, water generates high vapor pressures that exert internal stress on cooling system components. When the engine cools, the pressure reduces. This repetitive process often leads to fatigue and component failure.

Because Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of above 375°F and will not vaporize within the cooling system, they generate such low vapor pressure that you can remove the radiator or expansion bottle cap while the engine is running.

This pressure reduction eliminates internal stress on hoses, pump seals and radiator seams, thus extending operating life by many years and preventing breakdowns."

I am just examining all avenues. My '65 350hp 327 runs warm here in traffic due to the triple digit ambient temps. All is good under the hood, engine is freshly rebuilt, new water pump, new aluminum rad, auxiliary electric fan, correct shroud with all seals in place. It's just that daytime temps are often over 100 degrees. If I drive over in L.A. where temps are in the 80/90's, never have a problem.
Came across this Evans Waterless Coolant on a few different forums so I'm looking for feedback from any Corvette owners who may use it. Downside, it is very expensive. About $30 a gallon for their system flush so that's about $120. Then it's $50 a gallon for the waterless coolant, another $200. So this is approx. $300-$350 to change up.

Last edited by Greg; May 19, 2021 at 05:15 PM.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Yadkin
The specific heat of water is very high, about 4200 J/kg K, which makes it so good at transferring heat. That's about 60% more effective than this stuff, and 75% more effective than pure antifreeze.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/Custome...og_hi_perf.pdf
Yes, but it (evans) boils at a higher temp than water/coolant, which reduces the formation of air bubbles, thereby increasing heat transfer. this where Evans excels.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 05:31 PM
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Seems like museums and track racers benefit the most due to corrosion resistance and the glycol bans at the track.
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Old May 19, 2021 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Hotrodz
Yes, but it (evans) boils at a higher temp than water/coolant, which reduces the formation of air bubbles, thereby increasing heat transfer. this where Evans excels.
So what? The bubbles are quickly swept away by the flowing coolant and the engine temperature remains normal. It does excel in the cost to buy it.
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Old May 20, 2021 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
So what? The bubbles are quickly swept away by the flowing coolant and the engine temperature remains normal. It does excel in the cost to buy it.
Yes they do get swept away and more bubbles take it's place and the cycle just goes on and on. The point is you don't have heat transfer where the air bubble sits. Air is an insulator.
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Old May 20, 2021 | 08:50 AM
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Bubbles can only form if the cylinder walls/heads actually get hot enough to boil the coolant. But that's the purpose of the coolant i.e. keep the cylinder walls/heads cool to prevent bubbles from forming and sweep them away if they do. Its continuous so not a problem. Again, Evans is not bringing to light anything the engineers didn't know already and have dealt with it. Marketing hype to lure folks in. If it was REALLY good, the car makers would use it and pass the cost off to us. But they don't use it because 50/50 works just fine.
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Old May 20, 2021 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Bubbles can only form if the cylinder walls/heads actually get hot enough to boil the coolant. But that's the purpose of the coolant i.e. keep the cylinder walls/heads cool to prevent bubbles from forming and sweep them away if they do. Its continuous so not a problem. Again, Evans is not bringing to light anything the engineers didn't know already and have dealt with it. Marketing hype to lure folks in. If it was REALLY good, the car makers would use it and pass the cost off to us. But they don't use it because 50/50 works just fine.
That's just it the cylinder heads do get that hot. The combustion process can expose the cylinder to 4500°F heat. Not saying the cylinders get that hot but it's more than enough to boil the coolant in the cylinder head water jacket area. I agree about the car makers not using it. This is all out race car stuff, for extended WOT, endurance type stuff, not even for drag racing though because of the short duration.
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Old May 20, 2021 | 10:52 AM
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The combustion temperatures do get hot as you say. But how much of that heat is transferred to the cylinder walls/heads? They are already being cooled by the coolant on the other side in the coolant passages. And then an instant later, there is a cool intake charge coming into the cylinder. So yeah, 4500*F looks pretty darn hot but the cylinder walls/heads won't get anywhere near that hot because there just isn't enough time to transfer that heat. Melting point of cast iron: 2200*F, aluminium: 1220*F. The engine should be melting, lol. A lot of the heat is blown out the exhaust into the headers and pipes. Evans does have its place just like 100% nitrogen in tires vice 80%. But not for normal street driven cars. There are benefits but the benefits are far greater in specialized applications.

Last edited by resdoggie; May 20, 2021 at 10:58 AM.
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