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I'm running a 1406 edelbrock carb and intake with a MSD 6 ignition, my question is if anyone put the main jets and rod setup from a stock 1405 carb on the 1406,.. 100 main jet and 7046 rod with the orange spring. If so did you notice a little more power or is it to rich for the stock l48?
Impossible for me to tell you here......tuning is a procedure that is 100% dependent on knowing where you are at now. There is no magic formula to give you "more kick"....there is either in tune, or out of tune....once it is tuned proper, that is as good as it gets. Read up on tuning these carbs or watch videos.....the can be made to work very well but you have to know how it works and what to do......cause and effect.
I suggest you do a lot of research on tuning and engines in general......there are a lot of excellent reads for the beginner/novice.......I read "How to Rebuild a Small Block Chevrolet" for the first time at age 10.....start there
This is 100% not the way to go about this. You cannot take rods and jets from one carb and put them in another to expect this or that....doesn't work like that.
In the Edelbrock manual....there is a chart.....the chart has corresponding numbers on it and a list of what jet and rod combos are needed to go one way or the other.In the manual it will give the part numbers for the rods and jets in your carb now...assuming nobody has messed with it.
Impossible for me to tell you here......tuning is a procedure that is 100% dependent on knowing where you are at now. There is no magic formula to give you "more kick"....there is either in tune, or out of tune....once it is tuned proper, that is as good as it gets. Read up on tuning these carbs or watch videos.....the can be made to work very well but you have to know how it works and what to do......cause and effect.
I suggest you do a lot of research on tuning and engines in general......there are a lot of excellent reads for the beginner/novice.......I read "How to Rebuild a Small Block Chevrolet" for the first time at age 10.....start there
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; May 26, 2021 at 08:00 AM.
The carb is at stock settings right now. The timing is set to 8btds. I've been reading on it and watch some videos and that's where saw someone do that combo on the carb that i mentioned.
Set your total timing to 36 degrees @ or around 3000 rpm....vacuum advance unplugged. Start there.
Not a single person here will be able to tell you what jets or rods to put in your carb......watching a video on doing this or that is silly because it is totally not the way to tune any carb.....the right way is with an Air/Fuel meter and reading the plugs.
You want a specific answer and you are not going to get one here......all engines are different....
The good news is that a 1406 is pretty damn close for a stock/mild 350 out of the box.......see how it runs after setting the timing as I suggested. 36 total is a proven number and well known here and any other place that knows small blocks well.....you will see a substantial increase.
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; May 26, 2021 at 08:17 AM.
Thank you for the advice. I'm going to be replacing the exhaust and will be installing a sensor that way I could dial it in correctly. I will be checking to see if I'm at 36 total today.
I use an old Innovate wideband. I had a 1406 on 350 in an El Camino, several years ago. With the wideband, I determined that it was too rich at cruise, too lean at WOT, and really wasn't "right" anywhere.
The metering rods, jets & springs to tune these are stupid expensive. I ended up watching ebay for a few months, buying collections of those items as people posted them. I eventually got it tuned decently, and the parts used (I don't have my notes, sorry) were not close to what the "charts" suggested.
I later installed a FAST EZ 2.0 system. Surprisingly to me, my MPG's did not really improve very much, but I did gain 25rwhp.
I use an old Innovate wideband. I had a 1406 on 350 in an El Camino, several years ago. With the wideband, I determined that it was too rich at cruise, too lean at WOT, and really wasn't "right" anywhere.
The metering rods, jets & springs to tune these are stupid expensive. I ended up watching ebay for a few months, buying collections of those items as people posted them. I eventually got it tuned decently, and the parts used (I don't have my notes, sorry) were not close to what the "charts" suggested.
I later installed a FAST EZ 2.0 system. Surprisingly to me, my MPG's did not really improve very much, but I did gain 25rwhp.
I don't care about the mpg i didn't buy it for that lol. I wish you had the notes I want to get just a little bit more hp out of it
Thank you for the advice. I'm going to be replacing the exhaust and will be installing a sensor that way I could dial it in correctly. I will be checking to see if I'm at 36 total today.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Get an A/FR gauge or read up on reading plugs, which is a pain in the *** as you have to stop and pull the plug right after you do you run at your spped you wanmt to check, no idling afterward so at WOT, you would hav eto shut off the motor then coast to the side and pull the plugs to see whaat they indicate. I got and AEM gauge and hard mounted it on my A pillar, you could just make a box and mount it in it and use it temporarily.
All the Edelbock rods and jets are interchangable, the carb numbers for the models indicate cfm and whether or not it had a manual or electric choke. THe manual choke carbs (1405) were factory setup richer than the electric choke carbs for performance. But you have to have the motor for it. Just throwing a bigger carb on your motor isnt going to give you the results that you want, but fine tuning the timing will. Contact Lars to get all of his tuning papers.
Short version is
set your idle correctly
set your timing to 14 or 15 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnected
rev the motor slowly up to see where your advance shows 36 degrees. Adjust the distributor to get it there. YOu want to get there just before 3000 rpm. this is the initial 15 degrees plus the mechanical advance kicking in. You will either have to mark your harmonic balancer, buy a correct timing sticker for your balancer size or buy a digital timing light that has dial back ability
recheck your initial timngn if you moved the distributor in step 2. this is your new initial timing setting
reconnect the vacuum advance and see how much total advance you have. Lars quotes not going above 48 total with todays gas on a small block. 50 or so on a big block iron heads
This will give your car a lot more pep. Then you can start messing with the carb tune to see if it gets better.
I don't care about the mpg i didn't buy it for that lol. I wish you had the notes I want to get just a little bit more hp out of it
Every car/combo is different. Once you get a wideband, tweak to get the WOT afr ~12.80:1. That is almost always the sweet spot for naturally aspirated street cars. Once there, use a dragstrip or chassis dyno to tweak to find best HP (dyno) or MPH (dragstrip).
In my experiences, though, the Edelbrock carbs are great for MPG and cruising, but a well tuned/selected Holley will almost always make more HP (and is easier & cheaper to tune).
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by CamByLee
Every car/combo is different. Once you get a wideband, tweak to get the WOT afr ~12.80:1. That is almost always the sweet spot for naturally aspirated street cars. Once there, use a dragstrip or chassis dyno to tweak to find best HP (dyno) or MPH (dragstrip).
In my experiences, though, the Edelbrock carbs are great for MPG and cruising, but a well tuned/selected Holley will almost always make more HP (and is easier & cheaper to tune).
Good luck.
Symantics here but the edelbrock is easier to tune. You can change rods through the small doors on the top, if you have to change jets and springs you can do it buy taking the top off the carb without spilling gas everywhere, I just used a 300cc syringe to suck it out so I didinnt flood the motor when I pulled the jets. Quadrajets are more of a hassle putting it back together to line up all the rods and such, THey are more intricate and I love them. Holleys get gas everywhere and you have to know what the hell you are needing to change.. Holleys are more of a racing carb. You have jets and if its a double pumper you have 4. plus power valves, idle air screws/ jets , emulsifier jets and the knowledge to figure it all out. THe kits are a lot more expensive because there is so much more in them. I've been learning a lot on youtube and the internet about how each thing interacts with the other. If you do it correctly, it isnt easy. The only thing that makes learning it easier is the A/FR gauge because you can tell what exactly is happening
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 26, 2021 at 10:04 AM.
Symantics here but the edelbrock is easier to tune. You can change rods through the small doors on the top, if you have to change jets and springs you can do it buy taking the top off the carb without spilling gas everywhere, I just used a 300cc syringe to suck it out so I didinnt flood the motor when I pulled the jets. Quadrajets are more of a hassle putting it back together to line up all the rods and such, THey are more intricate and I love them. Holleys get gas everywhere and you have to know what the hell you are needing to change.. Holleys are more of a racing carb. You have jets and if its a double pumper you have 4. plus power valves, idle air screws/ jets , emulsifier jets and the knowledge to figure it all out. THe kits are a lot more expensive because there is so much more in them. I've been learning a lot on youtube and the internet about how each thing interacts with the other. If you do it correctly, it isnt easy. The only thing that makes learning it easier is the A/FR gauge because you can tell what exactly is happening
I cut the top off a water bottle at an angle, and use the bottom to catch the gas coming out when I remove a bottom float bowl bolt - barely spill any gas. I can have the jets changed (on one end) in under 5 minutes. Holley is quicker/easier for me. Q-jet secondary metering rod changes are the easiest/quickest thing to tune - but internal changes ARE a pain.
I bought the edelbrock 1407 for my vette and became a Weber and edelbrock tuner.
The edelbrock book on rods and jet choices just suck with 6% gains or drops on the chart.
So I sat down with online calculators for area of a circle and mapped out what the rods and jets are doing.
The area of the jet diameter is the total potential flow. Minus the rods area of the two step diameters . Rods Larger diameter is cruise a/f ratio. Then on opening throttle and lower vacuum the rod lifts to the smaller diameter which is the rich power setting.
So using jet diameter area minus rod diameter area gives net flow area. Edelbrock has a whole list of rods and jets. You can use math to make finer changes that the sorry choices that they gave.
I'm from the motorcycle tuner world and the rods are tapered not the stepped like edelbrock. That way you don't have an issue of instant over rich as the rods lift. I spent lots of time tuning on dynos. I experimented with adding silver solder to the edl rods and sanding them down into quality tapered rods
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by CamByLee
I cut the top off a water bottle at an angle, and use the bottom to catch the gas coming out when I remove a bottom float bowl bolt - barely spill any gas. I can have the jets changed (on one end) in under 5 minutes. Holley is quicker/easier for me. Q-jet secondary metering rod changes are the easiest/quickest thing to tune - but internal changes ARE a pain.
I'm going to have to make something like that but the front carb is going to have to come off to change the center carb jets and the center carb is going to have to come off to change the rear jets...i upgraded the front and rear metering plates to QFT plates that accept jets...
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 26, 2021 at 02:26 PM.
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Royal Canadian Navy
On my Holley double pumper, I just take it off completely in about 3 minutes hardly spilling a drop. I place the carb in a parts cleaning tray where it can then leak wherever it wants without hurting anything. Better to remove carb for any carb work because it makes it easier.
I have a 1406 that I got the tuning kit for that has everything for tuning including the 1405 jetting and metering rods , it wasn't much from Jegs , I have a 1406 that I was going to base line with 1405 jets and springs but start with the 1406 Rods . In my case I was going to evaluate the 700 TV adapter on the Ebrock to compare to my Quadrajets T350 kickdown attachment and decide if I want to modify the my original 80 L82 for the 700 with NO intentions of keeping the Ebrock on it , just a TV Cable test and I already have the T350 kickdown working pretty good right now on the 700R4 transmission , so it's just a transmission driveability test for me before if/ I even modify the factory carb ... but like the others mentioned you need a AFR gauge to really tune it in since you plan on keeping it on where I'm just doing a light throttle test for the TV system on my 700R4 conversion