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So the original R12 system on my 82 finally **** the bed. Compressor clutch engages for 2 or three seconds tops, then disengages, air is blowing only slightly cold. I have no idea where the leak is, dont see anything obvious. Is there a usual suspect in this or anywhere is possible? Was going to start with the hose setup off the compressor and I guess the drier since Ill be changing to 134. Drier is under the overflow tank so I guess I'll be moving or pulling that or can I get it from underneath? Should I hit all the connections with some PB blaster or is that a waste of time. Any tips appreciated.
well no sense in getting r12 gauges ..if for sure going 134 and not trying r12.. i would empty and pressurize with compressed air to find leak(s) first...that will drive component replacement. accumulator a b*tch
post 2
To remove the dryer disconnect the hoses from the compressor. Then you can drop it down and reach the fittings from below the car. You also have to take off the rocker panel and the splash shield.
well no sense in getting r12 gauges ..if for sure going 134 and not trying r12.. i would empty and pressurize with compressed air to find leak(s) first...that will drive component replacement. accumulator a b*tch
post 2
with the cost of r12 being prohibitive I figured this would be the time to go 134. As for pressuring with compressed air how would I look for leaks? Just the old soapy water?
with the cost of r12 being prohibitive I figured this would be the time to go 134. As for pressuring with compressed air how would I look for leaks? Just the old soapy water?
read the post 2 i referenced..and the links.. a long read but all the leaks issues i found, but essentially i like the compressed air first soapy water and listening (see link) then vacuum overnight..
and yes @bruiser is correct AND STILL A PITA edit, and i tried that did not work for mine..
Take the car to a reputable auto A/C repair shop and have them find the leak and give you an estimate of cost to repair. Then you can decide whether to get it repaired and keep the R-12 or if it would be better to convert to R-134a [and possibly a new Senden compressor]. Depending on what you decide, have to shop fix the A/C or DIY with a conversion kit (about 1/2 the cost of converting to complete V.A. system).
I would NOT recommend trying to troubleshoot this yourself, if you don't have proper leak detection stuff.
Compressor is not hard to overhaul. You are better off keeping what you have now if it was working well before. The current replacements are not that great.
Watch the video on Century Air website. They sell the seal kits and tools. Going to tackle this myself soon. My plan is to open everything up and reseal it all with the green O-rings then try to pull a vacuum. New exact replacement reciever dryer was like $40 from old air products.
it sounds like everything is working as it should and you are simply low on r12. Those front seals never did seal 100% it could be it just finally dropped low enough that now the low pressure switch is cutting out very quickly.
any reason you don’t want to just buy some r12 and charge it up and see how it goes? Cost? Or ability/ lack of knowledge?
easy to charge. very difficult and pricey to find 12. how much less efficient is the same setup with r134? cuz even adding a 5 buck can when you use it may be better than paying somebody a buncha money and hear "it is fixed." and 3 weeks later starts cycling again. a friend is HVAC guy. he says he can't get 12 or 22 any more. still holds some pressure. not much of a leak.
Last edited by derekderek; Jun 7, 2021 at 11:55 PM.
it sounds like everything is working as it should and you are simply low on r12. Those front seals never did seal 100% it could be it just finally dropped low enough that now the low pressure switch is cutting out very quickly.
any reason you don’t want to just buy some r12 and charge it up and see how it goes? Cost? Or ability/ lack of knowledge?
Buy some r12? very cost prohibitive and without a license its dam near impossible. I scrounged through my garage and found an r12 can from who knows when along with a hose. Put that can in and the compressor started cycling normally and the air got colder. Two days later went out and tried it and it was back to short cycles so it apparently leaks to a point then stops.
easy to charge. very difficult and pricey to find 12. how much less efficient is the same setup with r134? cuz even adding a 5 buck can when you use it may be better than paying somebody a buncha money and hear "it is fixed." and 3 weeks later starts cycling again. a friend is HVAC guy. he says he can't get 12 or 22 any more. still holds some pressure. not much of a leak.
Agreed, I may do the hose assembly, orifice tube and drier myself and also do the 134 conversion at the same time and see what happens. If it still leaks then Ill have to figure out where to go from there. I also like the pressurize with air and find the leak scenario also.